16v conversions

[nawaters]

I have my kr 16v which I love and rebuilt years ago and it's starting to show its age with a leaking rear main and leaking rack.

Looking to keep it a valver, ideally 9a but an ABF will do the trick, have seen the threads to keep it kjet which I want to do but been told my 4 branch will fit an ABF but being a tall block it needs to be modified or a larger bulkhead or mod my mounts to suit an ABF, is this correct?

My question is it worth using the subframe and engine for the ABF, or just the engine, is it easy to fab or mod the mounts? Either way I want to rebuild a 2.0 16v for more power and torque but have good parts to fit a 16v that I want to keep, like rebuild gearbox, ported polished head, 4 branch ect. I want to to know f it's worth building a new engine on a subframe with rack or fit the ABF and repair the rack while I have the space.

Just need to do some research and with a little advise want to get ahead of the game.

Cheers in advance.

[Mart8V]

You on ClubGTi as well?  Have a look at Toyotec's ABF into Mk2 KR thread.  Covers most of your questions, I think.

[Diamond Hell]

I have an ABF in my Syncro.  It fits on standard engine mounts, although I have a 'G60 mount' at the back of the engine.

I'm also using a cable-change gearbox, which might change your situation a touch - certainly an ABF on a cable-change 'box bolts in on standard cable-change mounts.

Keeping it K-Jet is a stupid thing to do.

I'd take the motor and gearbox out, take the rack off, check your subframe and provided it's sound I'd bolt the replacement engine and whatever else you're using back in.

[nawaters]

I'm on club gti but got no response to my questions so thought I'd try another source.

I want to stick with my rod shift 02y box and keep kjet as I like the fact it's MFI and easy to tweak compared to EFI, don't like the fact the every time something goes on my car I'd need to plug it in or buy crank sensors ect, I like the original simplicity of it. I understand pro's and cons from each side but don't want to open a can of worms and change loads, I just want a fresh engine with more grunt, I'd be happy with 160bhp at the wheels, more is better tho 

With regards to ABF in the syncro you have a more space anyway don't you being 4wd? Will the rear g60 mount fit my subframe then, looks way different to mine.

Do mk2 and mk3 subframes differ? I know the vr6 was wider track and supports more weight, but if the mk2 & mk3 16v subframes are the same that helps.

[molegti]

The abf will mount to your existing subframe using the engine mounts currently on your car. The mk3 subframe does use a different engine mount but the one bolted to the back of your kr engine fits the abf block.
The kr and abf are pretty similar to look at. To keep k jet you just swap everything off the kr block onto the abf.

The block is taller so that's where the problem comes in with non standard manifolds. The down pipe may have be extend.

[VeeDubGTI16v]

tsr used to do a manifold for the tall block into mk2, or you could 'dent' the bulkhead a bit to make a short block one fit

[gazareth]

yeah get the downpipes extended or just use the standard abf set up. or try and get hold of a 6a/9a or ace bottom end.

[thai-wronghorse]

Not sure if you have the bits already but im breaking mk3 16v in Maidstone so not overly far away if you needed anything for the conversion?

[Diamond Hell]

I'm on club gti but got no response to my questions so thought I'd try another source.

It's because you aren't hardcore or clique enough.

I like the fact it's MFI and easy to tweak compared to EFI, don't like the fact the every time something goes on my car I'd need to plug it in or buy crank sensors ect, I like the original simplicity of it. I understand pro's and cons from each side but don't want to open a can of worms and change loads, I just want a fresh engine with more grunt, I'd be happy with 160bhp at the wheels, more is better tho

It's hardly going to be simple sorting the K-Jet so it runs properly and delivers that 160bhp on a consistent basis.  Remember your MFI is governed by the 'map' provided by the shape of the bowl with the rising plate in it.  Do you have a map for the shape of the bowl to suit a 200cc larger engine with a longer stroke?

By changing the capacity of the motor you're already opening a can of worms.  Using a proper EFi solution that's designed for it closes the top of the worm-can more easily than just turning up the control pressure and hoping it doesn't run lean over 5k RPM

With regards to ABF in the syncro you have a more space anyway don't you being 4wd?

No, much less because we have 4WD.  DannyP and I have made our own manifolds to suit.

Will the rear g60 mount fit my subframe then, looks way different to mine.

Should bolt right up IIRC

Do mk2 and mk3 subframes differ? I know the vr6 was wider track and supports more weight, but if the mk2 & mk3 16v subframes are the same that helps.

Yes they differ - the Golf3 uses a completely different rear engine mount.  There are also additional bolt holes in tabs at the back, although you can cut these off.

The ABF on OEM management is the easy solution, which won't require visits to dynos to tune it in etc etc

The route you're going down will open the worm can and line the pockets of tuning specialists to get the same result.

[VeeDubGTI16v]

You just need an exhaust gas analyser, chuck your friendly garage a tenner to use theirs. Get the dizzy in the right place and do the wur mod, use super unleaded and you are done. It's not hard.