Oil Cooler Kit

[matt@onlychargeddubs]

Finally got things sorted out with this, taken longer than I would of liked!

We all know how hot our G60's run and this is one of my first recommended modifications I advise people, on stock engines or lightly tuned it's the place to start personally.

Kit consists of the cooler, we have either 10 Row or 13 Row, 4x push fittings, 1 metre oil hose, universal fitting kit & Mocal thermostatic plate.

http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-g40-oil-cooler-kit.html

We've also got available the factory oil/water cooler deletion coolant pipes, this is something else we recommend, it prevents any chances of oil and water mixing and stops the oil being warmed by the coolant temp, it brings both down and helps massively on tuned engines and in the summer months, this keeps engine health up and prolongs the life of the bearings in the supercharger.
People also find if the oil/water cooler is kept the factory oil filter can catch on the cross member, one solution people have done is using a shorter oil filter but this isn't a great idea as it reduces oil flow on start up

http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/g60-oil-cooler-deletion-coolant-pipes.html

To go with both the above is the shorter thread for the oil filter as the one with the oil cooler is too long for just the sandwich plate

http://www.onlychargeddubs.co.uk/products/oil-filter-short-threaded-union.html

Matt

[Diamond Hell]

If the system is running right, the water warming the oil is a key part of bringing up the oil to temp, isn't it?

Why wouldn't you want the oil warmed up faster? 

[matt@onlychargeddubs]

No the factory oil/water cooler is a 'comfort' part for passenger cars as it aids warm an engine quicker which warms your heaters up quicker. Which is fine to an extent but almost all forced induced engines run oil temps well over 100'C and this isn't good for the engine or oil.

So say you're giving it some beans the coolant will just get warmer and warmer as will the oil and they're both in one unit they'll both just get hotter, with a thermostatic oil cooler the oil will raise to 90'C as it normally would then it won't get any hotter at all as the thermostat opens and allows oil to flow round the cooler.

This is especially important on G-Lader engines as the most important part of keeping a G-Lader in top health is looking after the bearings, these are supplied engine oil at a very precise oil presure and flow, if oil over heats both of these will change and risk damaging or wearing the bearings.

No performance engine runs a water/oil cooler, they all run an oil cooler with thermostat. It's the best way to look after oil

[Diamond Hell]

Nah, I'm not buying what you're saying.

When last I checked oil was fine well over 120 degrees C and you wanted around 100 degrees C in it when up, running and working.

The water warms cooler, which brings the oil up to temp faster.

Cold oil will do more damage than oil at the right temp - being 90-120deg C.  Taking away the oil-water heat exchanger is a bad idea - oil is cooler for longer.

[matt@onlychargeddubs]

When you last checked what? Oil breaks down over 110'C, fact!

Yeah cold oil will do damage, but thin overheated oil will do the same too, and engines are hot a lot more than they are cold!

Oil isn't colder for longer without the cooler, I ran mine for 2 years daily without an oil cooler and it was up to water and oil temp within 4 miles, everyday any weather and never went over 90'C on either.

It isn't an argument as many people have ran this set up for years and it's proven to be better than the factory set up. Plus any high performance or motorsport car will run the exact same setup. Majority of parts fitted to road car engines are for 'efficiency, economy and driver comfort', not for high performance, which this kit I'm selling is for.

Take a read - http://www.wearcheck.com/literature/techdoc/WZA043.pdf You might buy that?

[clipperjay]

Does the kit include a thermostatic valve to close when oil is cold?
Then opens wide when engine warms up?
This would be a better design for everyday use!
TBF if I was on track regardless the oil breaking down or not, I would have an oil change right after a tight session!
I believe in winter you could just shut the oil cooler loop and only use it in summer time its not hard to have a bypass loop to encompass a shut off valve 
If you have the money and it gives you confidence then go for it! If not and you would rather change oil more regular then do that.
I've never needed to run an oil cooler because my cars run right, not too lean, not too rich 

[Diamond Hell]

Yeah cold oil will do damage, but thin overheated oil will do the same too, and engines are hot a lot more than they are cold!

Not on the short journeys that a lot of cars are used on.  That's what the heat-exchanger is there for - not a 'comfort' thing, an 'improving engine life' thing.

Oil isn't colder for longer without the cooler, I ran mine for 2 years daily without an oil cooler and it was up to water and oil temp within 4 miles, everyday any weather and never went over 90'C on either.

You are failing to make this point, as you have shown no data without the cooler.

Logically without the heat exchanger the oil will warm up slower.

That's not a good thing.

You want the heat exchanger AND an air-oil cooler with a thermostatic valve to take the top of the temperature off the oil.

That way you can control the top end of the oil temp and bring it up to temp faster - the best of both worlds.

Under normal HEAVY working conditions both the oil and water will run up to just under 110degrees C.  This damages neither, or the engine.

Plus these conditions are only likely to occur in the middle of summer, on a track day, on a long session, or under sustained (100mph sort of speed) high speed running.

Why are you suggesting people remove the heat exchanger when they fit an oil cooler?  It makes no sense.

[matt@onlychargeddubs]

Does the kit include a thermostatic valve to close when oil is cold?
Then opens wide when engine warms up?

Kit consists of the cooler, we have either 10 Row or 13 Row, 4x push fittings, 1 metre oil hose, universal fitting kit & Mocal thermostatic plate.

Yes it does, as stated in first post.

I didn't originally show any data as many G60 engines have ran this setup for years perfectly fine, which is what it is mainly aimed at, but a help on all engines.

G60's are commonly known for running well above 110'C oil temps without being worked, turbo'd engines are the same due to oil going through a charge unit which warms it up.

G40's don't have an oil/water cooler from factory
Mk1 Gti's didn't have an oil/water cooler, just an air/oil cooler like this kit direct from filter housing

The larger engines ran one to warm coolant up with oil, to warm both up, not just oil quicker.

If you read the original thread we offer the kit for either keeping the oil cooler or deleting it, we recommend removing it as it leaves more room in the bay for the correct oil filter to fit, removes a part that is known to fail and mix oil and coolant together and that it simply makes no difference in times it takes oil to warm up