mk3 golf rear discs and pads replacement

[Brad 16v]

Hi guys new here so hope this is the place to post. I saw that its the mk3 section. Basically I need to change the rear discs and pads. I have the parts but don't have the special tool to wind the piston back in. Do you have to use this or couldn't you just pit two bolts of similar size in the holes of the piston to use as pins and use a pole or screwdriver to rotate the cylinder whilst pushing it back? Also if the disc is worn and its a screw type cylinder how do you get the caliper off if you can't push the piston back to free the disc? Cheers guys sorry if this dosent make much sense as I am writing this on my phone and its a bit odd.

[tweed]

Tool is best and ive bought a kit that does most cars. Try getting a tool from a garage. Give them a drink for it.

Ive heard of people using pliers before and loosening the bleed nipple to make it easier.

Also change bearings and the get new abs rings that go on the disc. You can reuse the old ones but could damage them. 

[Gavv8]

You'll need the tool as its virtually impossible to turn the pistons without it, i managed to remove and re-use my abs rings although i could easily see how they could get damaged during removal also take the discs and bearings to a garage and get them to press the bearings in for you as the idea about bashing them in with a suitable sized socket is total crap...they need pressing in properly.
The caliper is removed by undoing the two allen head slide bolts..one on top...one on the bottom, then you'll need to remove the caliper carrier bolts behind the disc..these are also allen head bolts and will be a swine to remove, buy a proper allen key socket to fit (8mm).. i bought a teng one off ebay for about six quid and have a set of irwin extractors ready for when the allen bolt rounds off which it will.

[gazareth]

i wouldn't go near it without the windback tool. it will drive you mad trying to get the pistons back without it. and when you go to take allen key bolts out i find if you lock a visegrip round outside of bolt head and have allen key bit on inside of bolt and push on both equally then they usually free off. but they might not be to rusty anyway. they may undo easily enough. when taking calliper off just take out 13mm bolts and lever it off with a sturdy screwdriver.

[vwwvgolf]

you can do it with a g clamp and some big adjustable grips

[gazareth]

yeah it can be done that way but its so much quicker with the right tool. I usually pull back piston dust cover and put a few squirts of wd40 in first to help it along when im winding it back.

[Gavv8]

you can do it with a g clamp and some big adjustable grips

Yes you can but then you'll need a new caliper as you'll have fu**ed up the one on your car.

yeah it can be done that way but its so much quicker with the right tool. I usually pull back piston dust cover and put a few squirts of wd40 in first to help it along when im winding it back.

This is not a good idea as you risk contaminating the brake fluid with wd40, if the caliper is working fine it'll wind in without any problems and if its seized you'll need a new caliper anyway.

[vwwvgolf]

how will it have messed it up? its doing essentially what the 'tool' does just without the the pushing and turning happening at exactly the same time.
when i did mine just did it really slowly little bit at a time. had no problems with it since doing that

[gazareth]

nah a couple of squirts of wd40 wont do it any harm at all. and anyway it shouldn't be able to get into the brake fluid. and if calliper is seized. don't renew. remove strip down and clean up. that's assuming the seals and piston are ok which they usually are. mostly corrosion build up behind the dust cover that causes them to bind up.

[Gavv8]

Its your car so you decide which is the best and safest way to go about the job.....'bag and hatchet' or spend a little more money and time and do the job once.