Rebuild on a MK2 GTI 16V

[AlanMK216v]

Hi guys...

Basically i'm going to get a company near me to do a rebuild on the golf  It needs setting up properley anyway and after 159K the tappets are starting to stay loud and a bit of smoke on acceleration is starting to raise it's head.The idle is all over the place too!

I just need to know what needs to be done while it's all getting sorted??

Tappets?
Oil seals?
Cambelt has been done but gonna get the aux belt done.

And what i should be paying roughly??

[Gang*]

might aswel get a recon lump. wud be quicker enit

[Martz]

Stick a 9a conversion in her. 2L 16v, you will be kicking ass on alot of cars! Good cheap fun. It cost me £1000 for engine and fitted.

You won't regret it, I did'nt!

Martz

[AlanMK216v]

Whoa guys your talkin to a dub virgin here 

Were can i get a recon engine from??

[Martz]

It would cheaper to sell yours and buy mine!

[PassRatGT]

Volkspares do a replacement engine fitted ready to drive for £1275 or they do a Big Bore engine for £2050 all on exchange basis

First ones not too bad for a fully re-conditioned engine mind you the 8 valve engine is half the price

[monzablue16v]

Only half the engine thats why

[tinman]

Depends on how much money you want to spend.

I wouldn't touch a recon engine with a barge pole - they are an unknown quantity and may not even be reconditioned. Recondition is also a bit subjective - one persons recon is another persons rebuild is another persons doing f*ck all.

You need to get the head off the car and check the cylinder wear to start with. If there is any wear - which there will be - you need to get the block rebored, and then get new VW pistons in either 0.25mm or 0.5mm oversize rebore. If your cylinder wear is more than that, or is eliptical, then you need Schmidt or Snyder piston heads (can't remember the name). Anyway, they are the only maker of oversize 1mm pistons and cost a fortune.

Some people will tell you to bore to the max - but I wouldn't. There are oil galleries in the bottom of the block that get screwed if you go larger than 1mm.

The head will need rebuilding - new tappets and new cam chain. Check the cams for wear. If they look good, put them back in. If they look worn replace them from a trashed valver. Dont go race cams if you like a smooth idle (well, as smooth as a 16v can get anyway). Replace the valve springs as well.

Get the big ends changed underneath and clear out all the dirt you see in the sump.

Stick the whole lot back together and you are half way to finishing. The "new" engine cause its virtually new by now will show up all the other faults in the engine like the coil, the injectors (which will need replacing (use Bosch not VW to save cash)), the fuel pumps may be showing weakness, the lifter pump is especially weak and does go wrong over time.

While you are at it stick a complete new standard exhaust on the car as well.

The end result is a set up which is virtually new. Forget 2litre bottom ends and all these bodge jobs everyone does - get the engine rebuilt and the power gains are immense. You will suddenly realise that the fast car you've been driving has been transformed into something that really is fast now.

After my full rebuild the engine probably delivered more power than when it was 3 years old (when I first bought her). She can spin her wheels in first gear whilst moving as she develops so much extra torque. (Put the car in first, get to 3k-3.5k and hold the throttle for 10 seconds - then bury the throttle and see what happens).

My 16v now starts on the button, has a fantastic idle, and can go for weeks without starting yet starts first time everytime on the button.

[Agreeable Slick]

Right,

Top End
Get a copper gasket much less chance of warping
Head off, skimmed and flowed.
Cams, check for wear on them and will probably need replacing.
New Tappets, Valves and valve springs will need changing both exhaust and intake.
Pistons will need replacing regardless as they will have worn, get a .5mm overbore don't bother with a .25.
Have them polished aswell, basically so it gives a smooth movement for them during the engine turning.


Bottom End:
Big Ends (or Shells) take out and replace whilst there check the crank, this will have worn but if its only aboit .5mm then it should be ok, i personally would replace it.
Whilst in there and the sump is out, pull out the oil lines and clean them out, might also be worth replacing the oil pump.


What tinman has said is all well and good but him and everyone else seems to have forgotten one massive point. YOU CANNOT DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT FOR ABOUT 1200 MILES AFTER THE REBUILD!!

You will need to bed the entire lot back in again, do not exceed 2.5k for the first 500-600 miles and this cannot be covered in long runs, it need varied runs, to get up to temp and then cool down, not all in one go. after that then vary the rev range up to about 4.5k no more until you pass the 1000mile point. This will ensure the parts have settled and will not warp and cause more problems.

Agreed your car will be more responsive but i wouldn't put your hopes on massive power gains, or torque gains either, the 16v is a great peice of machinery anyhow, but expecting massive results is foolish, ideally once rebuilt it will return about 140bhp and 120lb/ft which to be fair is a great amount. Especially from such a basic engine.

Good luck with it and i hope we haven't put you off. 

[Gambit]

i just got my bottom end rebuilt and it cost me £200 in parts for

big end bearings
main bearings
piston rings
oil pump
water pump
full gasket set
head bolts

and all fitted by my da, my mate & me.

cheap enough!!!