Sump like a sieve

[theclash]

Last week I changed my sump gasket on my 8 valve.
I bought a cork gasket from gsf but the old gasket that came of was a rubber gasket so I went back to gsf and swapped the cork for a rubber.
Since fitting this gasket ( no sealant ) it's done nothing but leak. I was originally frightened to torque the bolts to the 20nm as specified but as it was leaking I reluctantly torqued them all to near as damn it 20nm
Iam still getting oil leaking so this morning my mate put it on his ramp as I suspected crankshaft oil seal(timing end) but on inspection you could see oil seeping between block and sump. Bolts are tight gasket is rubber and new so as anyone got any ideas ? Do I need to change the sump bolts for new/longer ones or am I better fitting the cork gasket (originally specked for mk2) could the sump be twisted don't really wanna be buying a new sump
Anyone had same problems ?

[Wayne]

Sounds like you sump is twisted, someone in the past may have overtightened the bolts.

You might be better to get a s/h one

[Gambit]

when you refit the sump use a smear of sealer (loctite 5920) on both sides of gasket. and leave it to set for 24hrs before putting oil back in & running the engine

[theclash]

Right......yesterday I drained the oil took off the sump and gasket again.
Decided to buy a new sump and fresh gasket and start again.
Fitted it all fired her up and.......................leaking 
The sump is leak free the leak now is coming from behind the timing belt cover and running onto the sump.
My guess is crankshaft oil seal but need to strip it to be sure.
I've had to book it in at a garage next week as I don't feel confident enough to set timing ready for taking belt off my main worry is stoping engine turning to undo crank bolt as I would be on my own and the bolt is torqued to daft amount. Watched a few vids on you tube of how to do it but the luck I'm having lately something would bound to go wrong
Old cars don't you just love em  ::

[Gambit]

aye the bottom pulley bolts can round very very easily. but can be undone handy enough just tap the hex head all the way into each pulley bolt, you dont need to upset the timing at all its only alternator & ps belts pulley you are removing. timing belt pulley is behind the cover

[theclash]

Cheers gambit for info I could see the 4 pulley bolts looked a little chewed
The timing belt has to come off so as to get the crank pulley off so the seal can be changed

[Gambit]

That seal doesnt really fail but your sump screws up into crank seal housing plate which seperates from block. I wouldnt disturb the crank pulley bolt unless you are 100% certain its the crank seal. The bolt is the tightest bolt in the whole car, and thats no joke. Its also sometimes a stretch bolt, if its 12 point bolt its a stretch, and must be replaced with a new bolt.

[theclash]

Thanks gambit
If I did strip it down I may as well change crank seal while I'm there but it is that crank bolt that's my concern, stopping pulley from turning. Cars my daily so can't afford for it to be of the road although im off for 4 days next week and am toying with the idea of cancelling garage and doing it myself