Hi guys
had a message from someone who wanted some info on changing a head gasket.. so ive written back and thought id put it up on here as it might be worth a read, try and pass across my experiences, it may help it may not (even may bore some!) also it wouldnt let me reply as my message was too long.. LOL.... im not machanic so dont take any of the following as fact.. its just my bodge method.. LOL..
sorry its in two parts exceeded message limit.. oops...lol
I wrote...
Hi mate
Well hope i can help.. its all about having a go isnt it.
right ive got an 1.8 8v PB engine. the exhaust manifold has a plate with 6 studs which hold the exhaust downpipes bolt to. these are a b1tch to get off.. word of advice with this a day or so before your gonna do the job, cover them in WD40 (will smoke like crazy when u use the car) then a few hours before u gonna do the job cover them again and 5 minutes before ur gonna do it cover them again, u get the idea right just let them soak in it. will really help get them off. you gotta remove the air box, and everything else in the way of the head. Ok now jack up the front of the car.. So its really high so ya can get underneath her easy! Your need an axle stand one side and a jack the other or two axle stands whichever u prefer. i always use the little cup shaped bits just behind the front wheels. much safer than the jacking points on the sill. Right now its high in the air get under the car and will a couple of 1/2 drive bar extentions and a wobble joint you should be able to reach all but one nut.. the middle one thats closest to the bulkhead u cant get from below.. well i couldnt. If you can remove that heat shield which attaches to the downpipes it will make life a load easier. The bolts holding this shield on though usually rust up and u have to cut it off. not easy with no room at all. i found it just as easy bendin it a little to get round it. Right the middle nut then.. people say u can undo it from the top (they also recon u can undo it from the bottom between the downpipes if u remove the heat shield but i couldnt even get a 3/8 drive extension between them let along a half drive)  but i had about 2 inches worth of travel on a 1/2 drive ratchet and there wasnt enough room to get them moving. oh BTW i used a bar breaker on the ones from under the car. i couldnt get this middle nut off so tried using a nut breaker, and mangled it to bits. Still couldnt get the damb this off. so ended up taking my whole exhaust system off (its stainless steel so comes off and goes on easy enough) then removed the head with downpipes on. now you cant get the head out with the pipes on but u can move in out enough to attack that last bolt left. If u have two or three of you may be able to left it out.. but me on my tod i struggled to just move it.. LOL.... from now on mate its a peice of p1ss...  i was replacing the cylinder head so had to remove exhaust manifold and inlet manifold.. thats all good fun.. more arkward studs..anyways u wont have this trouble.undoing the 10 head bolts is exciting times.. U will need a bar breaker and about a 5 inch 1/2 drive extention and a special torke tool, strong one. its fun undoing these bolts as it sounds like there gonna snap when u do..tence times...  People on the forum and others recommend having the head checked for being warped.. but getting it skimmed is always a good idea.. but of extra compression make her go a little faster lol.. right of pull off the old head gasket..give the head and barrels a quick clean. i got a hover out to suck up all the mess id made in the cylinders.. on fitting ya new head gasket smear a little all purpose greese on the tops side of the gasket. helps it move when doing up bolts and getting it in the right place. buy a headset kit from ya local dealer or i got one from my local auto shop, came with all the gaskets i needed and new bolts, you have to replace bolts as they are stretchy ones, use them again and they may snap. ok so ya new gasket is fitted, yeah head is clean, you got piston one and TDC and your head is at TDC, that little mark on the cam pulley as to be lined up with the front of the block (but you should know this having done timing belts).
PART TWO -
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=24737.0
