Author Topic: Head Gasket  (Read 7430 times)

Offline GTI-Virgin

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #20 on: 01 January 2013, 23:52 »
Another question would be surely warping only takes place when somebody drives a car for prolonged periods above the optimal temperature.

As this was driven no no more than 30 mins, and thats its small parts like 10min her, 10 theres, surely that means theres alot less chance of warping.

If a boiler overheats badly for a short perios it doesnt warp, if its overheating for days/weeks and the custard keeps resetting and using, then the main heat exchanger(like an engine block crossed with a radiator)can warp, also how hot it gets is a factor, I doubt this got far over 100c and as it seemed to be holding po#ressure of a sorts(as exp ball was expanded shut) surely iv got a good chance of no warping?

Please guys this is my last question before i have to do it, and if iv gotta get it skimmed i mayaswell get a mechanic to do it anyway  :undecided:

Offline Bellend

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #21 on: 02 January 2013, 00:36 »
70 quid would have an 8v engine in there.

I sold mine for 30 quid. Antifreeze and oil etc.

Have you priced in a new cambelt?

Personally if I really cared for it and it was my car I'd prefer doing the head, get it skimmed reseat valves etc and new cambelt.

Buuut no offence I wouldn't do all that on an 8v because I'd only get an 8v as a cheap don't give a toss runabout.

Where all my moneys went.

Golf MK3 1.6. Golf MK3 8v GTI.

Offline GTI-Virgin

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #22 on: 02 January 2013, 09:45 »
Ok thx for the input, thats the cost. What kinda time does an engine swap take, as opposed to a HG.

Offline thai-wronghorse

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #23 on: 02 January 2013, 10:24 »
You could buy a whole new 8v car for the cost of getting a mechanic to rebuild the current one.

Offline CJA321

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #24 on: 02 January 2013, 10:33 »
Yeah i wouldnt bother with the headgasket personally. I couldnt even sell my 8v engine which had a new head and timing belt on it. Ended up in the scrappy. Got £8 For it lol...  But granted you dont have the gear to do an engine swap.

Possibly For you to do the head urself is probably the best option for you. You dont have gear to do a swap. Its not worth fixing at a garage. Uv got the parts it seems. Just remember a new belt kit and be prepared for if it all goes tits up
« Last Edit: 02 January 2013, 10:35 by CJA321 »

Offline GTI-Virgin

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #25 on: 02 January 2013, 12:46 »
Thanks again guys for your info.

If I can get the HG & Skim done for £200 surely thats cheaper than buying a new 1? I payed £600 for her.

Its an immacuale R reg, with working AC, EW, etc and the engine is in top nick.

Offline CJA321

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #26 on: 02 January 2013, 13:08 »
Thanks again guys for your info.

If I can get the HG & Skim done for £200 surely thats cheaper than buying a new 1? I payed £600 for her.

Its an immacuale R reg, with working AC, EW, etc and the engine is in top nick.

Homer? That with a new belt and all parts supplied? I pay 40 for a skim and pressure test at my local engine builders. I wouldnt charge that much with you suplying all the bits

Offline GTI-Virgin

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #27 on: 02 January 2013, 16:49 »
Homer? sorry for my ignorance but whats that?

also back to the OP, any tips, advice or guidance on replacing the HG? If I do it myself which due to finances i will be I doubt il be able to get her skimmed, but considering she was only overheating for a very short period im hoping the head isnt warped.

Just need a bit of advice and important things to do, dont forget its gettin done on a shoestring so it aint broke i aint fixin/replacin it yet.

Offline benvictors

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #28 on: 02 January 2013, 20:21 »
Did you buy a gasket kit or just the head gasket and head bolts??
Reason being, you are gonna need inlet/outlet gaskets and outlet manifold to down pipe gasket.
You are also gonna need a torque wrench and you should get the torque settings and bolt sequence with the new head gasket. You are possibly gonna need a Ribe tool too for the head bolts, although the AGG possible just use standard hex bolts.
Set your engine to top dead centre to start.
You want to remove as much as you can from the bay to make your life easier.
Disconnect the battery, remove the air box and air intake pipe.
Drop your oil and coolant then remove all the vac and coolant hoses from the top of the engine.
Remove the intake manifold (you can leave the throttle body connected to the intake) and the outlet manifold, remove the rocker cover, auxiliary belt and cam belt cover, now remove the cambelt.
You need to remove the head bolts in sequence too, the opposite way to which you have to tighten them.
Once the head is off, clean both faces thoroughly, you can check the head with a straight edge for warpage, bob the new gasket on, put it all back together.
A Haynes would probably aid you in this quest to be honest, take a lot of pictures on the way to help you put it all back together
I may have missed summat but its a rough guide so hope it helps  :smiley:

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Re: Head Gasket
« Reply #29 on: 02 January 2013, 20:45 »
I would add a few studs for the manifolds as you are bound to snap one off in the head, ben is spot on with the gasket advice as these will fall apart on removal or fail to seal properly on assembly if re used.
Also you may want to consider taking the rad out to flush it through and check it over, this will give you more access to the engine bay anyway.
Worth checking the pump works while your there too as running on water does naff them, new stat is a must.