Author Topic: Camber shims  (Read 3656 times)

Offline Wayne

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Re: Camber shims
« Reply #20 on: 14 November 2012, 21:52 »
Think of the shim as a clock face. Hold to driver side rear with 12 at the top and you get 3 pointing to front of car.

Take it to passenger rear with 12 at the top and 9 points to the front of car.

So if you twist both clocks to back of car by one hour driver side will have 1 at the top, passenger side will have 11 at the top.

Got you now :afro:

Offline Millhausen

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Re: Camber shims
« Reply #21 on: 16 November 2012, 15:39 »
So, 20 would be the setting on the shim at a standard height? Lowering a car with a rear beam set up swings the beam forward/upward and this in turn changes the degree of the mounting surface 'turning' the drivers side clockwise slightly? Counterclockwise on the passenger side? If so, this makes sense to me where you are referring to 23 and 17 settings, as they'll both 'match' either side. If, what I'm understanding, is correct??
This all accounts for matching the camber, but where does the toe come into this? Would you have to have the settings to say (now this is just a random set of numbers) 17 outer ring, 19 inner make a difference to the toe, hence you using 17-17 and 23-23 respectively.
It's a barrage of questions, I know, but just trying to wrap my head around it.
Cheers,
Carl

Offline tweed

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Re: Camber shims
« Reply #22 on: 16 November 2012, 15:57 »
Yes all that is right mate. Your understanding is bang on.

The only reason I don't want 17-19 is the fact it will give less camber as the top of shim is now slightly thicker and bottom thinner.

Hence my 17-17 and 23-23

Untitled by tweedub, on Flickr

Offline Millhausen

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Re: Camber shims
« Reply #23 on: 17 November 2012, 13:12 »
I know they're not an expensive purchase so I may just grab a set as theory is much more difficult to work out than holding something in your hands.
Thank you kindly for the verification though.