Help! No start, sudden loss of power + smoke... (GETTING THERE!)

[EsSeX dAn]

i believe it needs to be sat on the green line. ill check and get bk to u. what made the timing shift?

[EsSeX dAn]

i was wrong lol 66 should be a good reading

[billabong]

I think the shift was caused by the 3 bolts becoming loose...they didnt feel very tight...

Driving around today I could hear a hissing when I put my foot down, took it home and leak tested - no problems.
Later found out that the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve (which has been blocked off) is leaking on the bendy section, to make matters worse the nuts holding it onto the manifold are rusted beyond recognition, I think for now I'll pad it with exhaust paste and wrap it up in something, then jubilee clip it to hold together...not ideal :/

[scarr89]

I think the shift was caused by the 3 bolts becoming loose...they didnt feel very tight...

Driving around today I could hear a hissing when I put my foot down, took it home and leak tested - no problems.
Later found out that the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve (which has been blocked off) is leaking on the bendy section, to make matters worse the nuts holding it onto the manifold are rusted beyond recognition, I think for now I'll pad it with exhaust paste and wrap it up in something, then jubilee clip it to hold together...not ideal :/

My mum has this issue, just remove that pipe which is leaking and put the blanking plate directly onto the manifold. Those nuts will come off...Mine were really rusted on, give em a spray with some WD40 first then give em a crack. Use a 6 sided socket for better 'grip'.

[billabong]

I think the shift was caused by the 3 bolts becoming loose...they didnt feel very tight...

Driving around today I could hear a hissing when I put my foot down, took it home and leak tested - no problems.
Later found out that the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve (which has been blocked off) is leaking on the bendy section, to make matters worse the nuts holding it onto the manifold are rusted beyond recognition, I think for now I'll pad it with exhaust paste and wrap it up in something, then jubilee clip it to hold together...not ideal :/

My mum has this issue, just remove that pipe which is leaking and put the blanking plate directly onto the manifold. Those nuts will come off...Mine were really rusted on, give em a spray with some WD40 first then give em a crack. Use a 6 sided socket for better 'grip'.

Tomorrow I'll post a picture, dont think any amount of WD40 will help, can anyone suggest anything stronger? I might use a dremel to grind a new grip on!

[scarr89]

If all else fails get a set of 'easi out' sockets, there is a brand which is pretty decent, cannot remember.

People use them for rounded wheel nuts but they come in all different sizes. Rated highly.

Maybe ronson 

[billabong]

Right then. Got the damn egr pipe off. Used a 11mm hex for one. The other still spun. Couldn't get a 10mm hex on it but did get a 10mm 12 point bit on. Hammered it in and came off no prob.
Replaced with new ones and put the egr blank plate on.

I've also managed to get the car running again! Did some more reading and heard the coolant temp sensor could be the cause. Unplugged and it started! It had a new one from ECP 8 months ago (found invoice in stack from buying the car). Assume it's under warranty?

Thanks!!

[EsSeX dAn]

should have a year wanty but a lot of people say only use genuine vw part for this

[billabong]

Went to start this morning - Still no joy - It seems to take about 10 turn-overs to start. If I do 5 and then another 5 a minute later, it tends to start...I think this means I mis-diagnosed the CTS...
Tomorrow I'll try unplugging before touching it...
I dont know what else to try! Loosing the will to live!