Author Topic: Questions about inducting and lowering.  (Read 2464 times)

Offline Felton

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #10 on: 25 September 2012, 19:20 »
For the induction mate I would stick with the panel filter I have tried two different kits and both I found were a bit crap didn't do anything for the DV sound and the car used twice as much fuel so they came off and did the smooth box mod and found that a lot better mate

Offline james2

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #11 on: 26 September 2012, 16:00 »
For the induction mate I would stick with the panel filter I have tried two different kits and both I found were a bit crap didn't do anything for the DV sound and the car used twice as much fuel so they came off and did the smooth box mod and found that a lot better mate

My induction kit like the picture on page 1 sounds like its got a Dump valve and can get over 41.0mpg from a AGU engine.Love the induction roar it makes.  :wink:
AGU 1.8T. Mods done: R32 front bumper, turborev smic, ngk platinum spark plugs, uprated pancake pipe, demon motorsport boost hoses, forge 007 dv, forge engine cover, r-tec stage 1 map ,home made cold airfilter ,run on 98 ron fuel and castrol edge 0w 40 oil. Advanti racing alloys.

Offline james2

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #12 on: 26 September 2012, 16:06 »
This is my induction kit.




Parts altogether came to £90.

Sounds decent with the dumping noise of the Dv (standard one atm) and you can hear it sucking away like a prostitute on a saturday night.

you can either fit a smaller breather filter to the end of the pipe or do what i did and connect it back into the pipework using the silicone hose and adapter provided.

ive heard the ECU's prefer it to be back into the air induction but am sure both work.

Get a forge 007 and a stage 1 map on it. Sounds much better.  :wink:
AGU 1.8T. Mods done: R32 front bumper, turborev smic, ngk platinum spark plugs, uprated pancake pipe, demon motorsport boost hoses, forge 007 dv, forge engine cover, r-tec stage 1 map ,home made cold airfilter ,run on 98 ron fuel and castrol edge 0w 40 oil. Advanti racing alloys.

Offline Felton

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #13 on: 26 September 2012, 16:13 »
For the induction mate I would stick with the panel filter I have tried two different kits and both I found were a bit crap didn't do anything for the DV sound and the car used twice as much fuel so they came off and did the smooth box mod and found that a lot better mate

My induction kit like the picture on page 1 sounds like its got a Dump valve and can get over 41.0mpg from a AGU engine.Love the induction roar it makes.  :wink:
Mine had no effect what so ever I tried a cai one and normal knN and neither worked lol mine a ARZ engine the only reason I said about fuel was I do the same run most days and I use the same amount of fuel and when I had induction kit on I nearly ran out of fuel where I could do it normally with fuel spare lol

Offline james2

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #14 on: 26 September 2012, 16:17 »
Yeah same as me ,i had k&n panel filter then k&n induction kit then cai.The best is chopping the cai down and get a better filter for it. It sounds like a beast . :evil:
AGU 1.8T. Mods done: R32 front bumper, turborev smic, ngk platinum spark plugs, uprated pancake pipe, demon motorsport boost hoses, forge 007 dv, forge engine cover, r-tec stage 1 map ,home made cold airfilter ,run on 98 ron fuel and castrol edge 0w 40 oil. Advanti racing alloys.

Offline Prawny

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #15 on: 26 September 2012, 17:30 »
Lowering kits arn't more expensive than coilovers on the whole, they're more expensive than CHEAP coilovers.

Decent coilovers will cost you much, MUCH more than a lowering kit.

I'd always go for coilovers over a lowering kit, as you're stuck with the ride height you're given with a lowering kit. With coilovers you can tweak it to get the look and ride that you want.

Cheap coilovers are fine for an every day road car generally, they go low, look good, and the ride isn't too terrible unless you're ultra low, but from a handling point of view a decent set of matched shocks and springs will probably handle better, than a set of quality coilovers will handle better again of course as they can be fine tuned.

As for the induction kit, I'd avoid the long metal tubes of the CAI kits that put the filter down low, they get covered in road crap and grime in no time, and are susceptible to taking on water over winter - not cool.

If you want more noise than your standard airbox and panel filter are giving, I'd look at sticking a cone under the bonnet, with a short length of silicon to space it out towards the inner wing. I'd usually use a jetex filter, but as you're after a Red one Badger5 have recently started offering BMC twin cones in red which look pretty good.

I'd also not worry too much about claims of it ''getting too hot in the engine bay'', the gains of a decent filter will outweigh it anyway, the on any mapped car the ko3/ko3s is such a heat pump anyway what small difference a cold air feed makes will be negated. I run a jetex cone on my 300bhp 1.8T and my inlet temps are considerably better than most!

Offline james2

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #16 on: 26 September 2012, 21:35 »
Put the filter like this ,with a forge 007 and stage 1 map it will sound like a different car and goes better than a k&n panel filter with a smooth airbox.



AGU 1.8T. Mods done: R32 front bumper, turborev smic, ngk platinum spark plugs, uprated pancake pipe, demon motorsport boost hoses, forge 007 dv, forge engine cover, r-tec stage 1 map ,home made cold airfilter ,run on 98 ron fuel and castrol edge 0w 40 oil. Advanti racing alloys.

Offline GTi_James

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #17 on: 26 September 2012, 22:43 »
and to prevent knocking and banging search into ARB front and rear, TT front kit £££ with adjustable drop links £££ and then a whiteline RARB comes with everything you need for about £180.

i'm starting with the ARBs, then the wheels, then the coilovers. reason being the wheels will be fitted when i want to lower it and i wont have to mess about with height adjustment otherwise. i'll probably throw in some S3 struts front and back afterwards. alot of work and money but from what i hear, having your steering sorted out first is a good start because when you do your power gains you know how your car will handle and i ordered a pipercross panel filter from the bay and i have noticed petrol consumption increase but at the same time i seem to pull better and get up to speed faster instead of the usual drag but i think the last monkey who had my car before me tried mapping it as it ran rough before i added a catch can and put the panel filter in, gonna smooth it next and get it to Rtech for a spec 1 remap and 007 fitted  :grin:


Mk4 Golf 1.8t AUM, Wintersports Addition. PiperX panel filter, 008p Forge DV, Toyosports DP 3", Miltek Anni Style CatBack non resonated, APR Sport CAT 200Cell, Catch Can RS4 Reps 18s, OEM R32 front and OEM

Offline Nino

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Re: Questions about inducting and lowering.
« Reply #18 on: 27 September 2012, 19:25 »
Thanks guys :)

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