1.8t head removal and valve stem seal advice

[Jin_C]

Hi all,

I have started to get a puff of blue smoke when I start up the car which leads me to believe that the valve stem seals are going. I want to change these myself before winter kicks in and working outside runs the risk of hypothermia and frostbite!

I need some advice on whether I should replace the seals with the head on or off.

I have read that removing the head when I don't really need to could mean I introduce the chance of having to get it re-skimmed so it fits with the new head gasket properly. Is this true, it doesn't sound logical?

If I do take the head off should I give the valves and underside a clean or will that mess with the tight seal that the carbon deposits create?

Is replacing the actual seals hard?

Thanks

Jinesh

[leigh_harty]

Buy another head, strip it all down and de-coke it. Let a shop skim it for you (£40-50) and do the rest yourself

Seals are just push pull off - push on.

valves seal themselves - they never came out the factory new carbonised up did they

Buy a lapping tool and paste (£5)

throw new head on the car with new gaskets etc

sell old head to recoup some monies

It means you have your car off the road for less time, its what i did for my vr6

Dont forget to buy headbolts.. youll probably need the right spline tool too, is it getting expensive yet? 

I dont know how you time a 1.8t up so thats upto somebody else to shed some light

[Chris.]

Stem seals you need to remove the spring and retainer?  pretty certain you do.

Id whip head off and get a shop to replace the seals and skim.  New bolts and headgasket and put it back on.

[rockmonkey69]

If you were closer I would do it for you, I normally charge £4 per valve stem seal. Best of luck though.

[Jin_C]

Thanks for the help guys that's really helped.

I can take my time with getting the car back on the road. I don't need it in the week. So I will just work on the head that's on the car.

Leigh thats a good point about the valves sealing themselves but I'm guessing the bit you said about lapping answers my point about creating a good seal.

I already have the ribe bit head bolt tool from when I was originally going to take apart the last engine but ended up buying a new one. Timing shouldn't be an issue I can look at the bentley manual.

Spoke to an engine rebuilder in Bedford, he quoted £30 to replace the seals if I take the camshafts off myself. That seems decent if the going price according to rockmonkey69 is £80.

He also quoted another £40 to reskim, is that a decent price? I might as well get him to do the lapping as well if its all done for a good price.

[Chris.]

If the valves are kept in same place then no need to lap them in.  Number them and same with the hydraulic buckets.

£40 to skim is fine.
£30 to rebuild the head is about right. thats what our local guy charges to us in the trade.

[leigh_harty]

If the valves are kept in same place then no need to lap them in.  Number them and same with the hydraulic buckets.

£40 to skim is fine.
£30 to rebuild the head is about right. thats what our local guy charges to us in the trade.

Lapping them isnt needed but the stuff is cheap so i did it anyway, but i cleaned my valves and head back to shiney.

Stem seals you need to remove the spring and retainer?  pretty certain you do.

Id whip head off and get a shop to replace the seals and skim.  New bolts and headgasket and put it back on.

Yeah you need a valve removal tool for this (i managed to borrow one)

I Had nothing to lose so was a good technical exercise and now i have a spare head/cams/valves for whatever reason 

[Jin_C]

I have called a couple of engine shops and they have both suggested that it could also be the valve guides that are on their way out.

Is this possible/common on an AGU head or are they just going for the upsell?

[212hpdazza]

the head should only need a skim if the car has over heated if not should be fine but i do have a head for sale cant remember what engine code tho

[Jin_C]

212, What is the condition of the head you have?