Golf GT TDI 150 Overboost issues

[scarr89]

Old_no7 and Rhyso are diesel oracles...I'll leave it up to them to aid you  :embarassed:



Interesting read on the forge actuator Rhyso, interesting results also. Needless to say I won't be getting one in the future. Why and or how do you think it gave those results compared to a stock actuator? 

I think it was mostly down to the spring; as far as I'm aware although the springs are the same between the 007p and that actuator because diesels run much higher boost figures then the actuator was unable to control the vanes properly.  I think with a dedicated spring it MAY have done the job

What you have to be careful when replacing the actuator is that its worked with your turbo over a considerable mileage and has worn in with it.  The setup has to be absolutely spot on otherwise...........

Makes sense I guess. Did  you 'report' your findings back to forge at all? Would be interesting to see what they say about it. That last bit, are you saying that the actuator was too 'new' for the 'state' of your turbo? As in the non dedicated spring wasn't worn in enough? Which makes me think that if you fitted a brand new stock actuator that you may have similar issues as it would brand new compared to the turbo?

At least that is how I read that last bit 

[Rhyso]

Makes sense I guess. Did  you 'report' your findings back to forge at all? Would be interesting to see what they say about it. That last bit, are you saying that the actuator was too 'new' for the 'state' of your turbo? As in the non dedicated spring wasn't worn in enough? Which makes me think that if you fitted a brand new stock actuator that you may have similar issues as it would brand new compared to the turbo?

At least that is how I read that last bit 

Possibly and yes that's the line of thinking I was on about as my turbo expired about 3 months later    It could be due to a number of things; I couldn't pinpoint an exact cause but chasing an RS4 and red-lining it probably didn't help 

[scarr89]

Makes sense I guess. Did  you 'report' your findings back to forge at all? Would be interesting to see what they say about it. That last bit, are you saying that the actuator was too 'new' for the 'state' of your turbo? As in the non dedicated spring wasn't worn in enough? Which makes me think that if you fitted a brand new stock actuator that you may have similar issues as it would brand new compared to the turbo?

At least that is how I read that last bit 

Possibly and yes that's the line of thinking I was on about as my turbo expired about 3 months later    It could be due to a number of things; I couldn't pinpoint an exact cause but chasing an RS4 and red-lining it probably didn't help 

We are all guilty...

Anyway...Volatilebear...Keep us posted! 

[volatilebear]

Old_no7 and Rhyso are diesel oracles...I'll leave it up to them to aid you  :embarassed:



Interesting read on the forge actuator Rhyso, interesting results also. Needless to say I won't be getting one in the future. Why and or how do you think it gave those results compared to a stock actuator? 

I think it was mostly down to the spring; as far as I'm aware although the springs are the same between the 007p and that actuator because diesels run much higher boost figures then the actuator was unable to control the vanes properly.  I think with a dedicated spring it MAY have done the job

What you have to be careful when replacing the actuator is that its worked with your turbo over a considerable mileage and has worn in with it.  The setup has to be absolutely spot on otherwise...........

So if the N75 and pipes doesn't resolve the issue and I have to go down the Actuator route where I intend to buy one and get it fitted. How hard is the fitting going to be as I am a complete amateur, hopefully a good specialist will have no problems?

I am really trying to avoid the purchase of a new Turbo, the guys at R-TECH checked my turbo twice and said it wasn't sticky at all - lots of play - so I am hoping its not going to be a £800+ bill?

I will be honest with you, I have only just bought the car and I am thinking perhaps its just easier to sell the whole thing and take my chances with another? Although perhaps that will have other issues? Buying second hand cars always seems a lottery and I always seem to have bad luck - Any ideas on this thought?

[Rhyso]

So if the N75 and pipes doesn't resolve the issue and I have to go down the Actuator route where I intend to buy one and get it fitted. How hard is the fitting going to be as I am a complete amateur, hopefully a good specialist will have no problems?

I am really trying to avoid the purchase of a new Turbo, the guys at R-TECH checked my turbo twice and said it wasn't sticky at all - lots of play - so I am hoping its not going to be a £800+ bill?

I will be honest with you, I have only just bought the car and I am thinking perhaps its just easier to sell the whole thing and take my chances with another? Although perhaps that will have other issues? Buying second hand cars always seems a lottery and I always seem to have bad luck - Any ideas on this thought?

You need access to ramps etc as its fiddily to fit

Lots of play? In the shaft?  If so then your turbo is a ticking time bomb; there should be minimal play in it.........

I bought my turbo for around £450 which was a new genuine item; think I then paid approx £200 to have it fitted.  If you end up with a new turbo they mark the actuator with paint; this is supposedly the correct position for it and in theory should bolt straight to the car.  However, in my case, this was not accurate and I had very little boost from idle until 2000rpm.  I couldn't be bothered to get it sorted so sold the car on

[old_n07]

This pic might help



As Rhyso said get the car on ramps and you should be able to do it from underneath the car.

1. Remove the clip from the lever (careful not to loose it!!)

2. Take actuator arm off leaver by sliding to the side

3. Disconnect vac pipe

4. Undo the bracket holding the acuator from the turbo body circled in red (2 bolts) - don't bother with the ones that are shown with the spanner on until you have it on the bench

5. Set rod on new actuator to exactly the same length as old one

6. Swap old and new on the bracket

7. Re- fit bracket to turbo body, and then arm onto lever and fit clip.

8. Fit Vac line and then test

Get some plus gas to soak the bolts with too.

Actuator testing link You will need to register to see all the post but well worth it

[old_n07]

Lots of play? In the shaft?  If so then your turbo is a ticking time bomb; there should be minimal play in it.........

At a guess they were refering to the acuator leaver not feeling stiff or having reduced travel which would indicate crud build up on the VNT mech on the inside of the turbo 

[Rhyso]

Lots of play? In the shaft?  If so then your turbo is a ticking time bomb; there should be minimal play in it.........

At a guess they were refering to the acuator leaver not feeling stiff or having reduced travel which would indicate crud build up on the VNT mech on the inside of the turbo 

Hopefully otherwise its simply a matter of time 

[volatilebear]

Sorry guys! Perhaps I misinterupted what Nick said regarding the turbo as I was quite excited and had alot to talk about Right at the start before the rolling road his colleague checked the turbo for sticky VNT informed me that it was fine. After the rolling road he checked it himself and could not find sticky VNT.

Rhyso - When you purchased your Turbo I am assuming it came with an Actuator already fitted and surely if this is the case they would calibrate this correctly?

Perhaps I should just sell the car if its looking like its the Actuator as this seems to be a really complicated area as the Actuator has to be perfectly fitted and the right size? Or do you think I should persevere? I mean I have had some success stories with N75 resolving peoples issues! I kinda feel some attachment to my car, I know it sounds lame but I am sure you guys understand

[old_n07]

A recon turbo from ECP is about £360 with forum discount and it comes with the actuator set up correctly (most of the time ) if you can fit it yourself it won't cost much more than that - just a couple of gaskets and a new oil feed line and about 5 or 6 hours of your time if you take it steady

If a garage fits it you will be looking at £300 to £400 in labour I'd have thought 

A new actuator is say £70 delivered, and a maybe a couple of hours fitting and setting up correctly so about £200 if you have a garage do it I'd have thought.

I wouldn't sell the car for the sake of that, if you don't want to tackle it yourself then take a trip up to R-tech and get Nick to fit it and set it up properly and then get your remap done at the same time 

That is IF it turns out to be the actuator in the end anyway.

Neil