Power steering binding

[mcrisp]

I'll put this in here, think its the right place!

New golf, 16v mk II with power steering.  Which I wish it didn't have!

When correcting from a turn, the wheel 'sticks' or 'binds slightly as you turn it back towards straight - seems always to be at the 10 and 2 position relative to straight if you see what I mean

Sometimes when maneuvring and turning the wheel lots theres a bit of a clunking as well.

I think theres some fluid leaking down on the rack as well.

Now clearly its not very well, in fact its hanging out of its ar8e, but is this just a clear cut case of new steering rack and a strange stabbing pain coming from my wallet pocket, or is there something I can do?  MOTs up tomorrow!

[monkeyalan]

it will fail on that. I had a similar prob recently that turned out to be the rubber gaiter on the rack being twisted.

[Mr Blue]

check your tracking out first.

clonking when moving? Sounds like dry/worn CJ joints

[Gambit]

i would replace the PAS belt and make sure its tension correctly. it can cause the steering to feel notchy if not correctly tensioned

u can get a 2nd 16v PAS rack for about £25-40

[mcrisp]

Cheers, will check these out.

Today I sorted alternator and battery, but now the mfa and rev counter stopped working.  Hmm.

Tomorrow its:

sort a rattly water pump
fix the sunroof

Next week its:

Top end rebuild
Increase induction airflow
Plugs leads etc
Oil change

Next month:

Take over the world
 

[rubjonny]

The MFA is sensitive to loosing power and often goes mental if you disconnect the battery.  Good news is its easy to fix, either remove the dash fuse or disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect, it should be right as rain after that

Sometimes it canbe a bit more stubborn and needs to be left for a bit longer though

[Ty]

hey b4 u go changing the rack or nefin like that, try some additive stuff. u can get power steering sealer stuff. i had the same problem and i put some sealant in it and it stopped, at they didnt pick it up on the mot. it stoped leaking completely, now it is perfect, tho i wish i didnt have it cos its too light when ur doin top end.i dunno wat the stuff is called, its quite expensive but worth a try, cheaper than a new rack.

Ty

[mcrisp]

Right, power steering rack definitely had it, stripped down and the outer and inner rod joints are all fine, the internal mechanism itself seems to be to blame.  Also, tried turning the wheel with the engine switched off and it was almost solidly seizing without the power assistance - slightly worrying.  Bear this in mind if you have any 'slight' problems - they could be a whole lot worse if you stalled somewhere...

Now, next problem - identification and sourcing of a new one.

Apparently 8v and 16v have different ratios, but they are still interchangeable eg they still fit just the 16v is a quicker rack.  However, there is also a difference betwwen number of splines on the drive pinion (eg where the column clamps).  There are either 22 or 36 splines.  But an expert VAG breaker says he knows nothing about this, and says 8v and 16v definitely interchangeable.  So is it a year of manufacture related difference?  Or would it link to an engine code?  I have a 16v 1988, what engine have I got?  Assuming its a KR?

Anyone know where the spline difference fits in with the 8v and 16v difference?

I've ordered a rack from a breaker thats off of a 16v, lets hope it fits.

Will post a definitive guide to this when I get it sorted.

Oh, and heres a funny one.  Stealership price:  A whopping £700