Author Topic: technical info regarding gti's Intermittently Cut-out!!  (Read 4144 times)

Offline animaniac

  • GTI forum regular
  • ***
  • Posts: 156
http://ajmerphull.com/cars/vw/vw.html

Common problem Fixes
Intermittent Cut-out
This problem occurs at any speed from accelerating from stand-still to travelling at 70mph on the motorway.

The usual culprit is the ignition switch or the fuel relay?. I suggest you check your fuel relay with another owner or friend, before purchasing a new one, if that is the cause. If the ignition switch is the problem and you are not comfortable doing the work yourself, i suggest you call Vince at Stealth Racing.

Another common problem is the coil and the crank speed sensor?. The crank speed sensor monitors the TDC of the crank and signals the ECU. The coil, obviously provides the power to the spark plugs via the distributor. When one or both of these begin to fail the car will cut out for a split second while driving, as if there is a sudden loss of power. I would suggest checking the coil? first, since this is cheaper, but this fails then it will more likely be the crank speed sensor ?.

I was advised by a Volkswagen mechanic that on my engine type "AGG" the engine speed sensor is a common thing to go. If it fails the rev counter doesn't rise at crank. If it's ok it rises to about 300 after cranking for about 5 seconds. I replaced this because mine didn't rise. But the car still cut out. I took it back to the garage and they keep it for a few days. They ECU wasn't getting a signal which still indicated that the engine speed sensor was faulty, so they replaced it again. Still cut out. They replaced a power relay which supplys the ECU with power. Since then about 2 weeks the car has been fine.
Gerry Darroch

Cut-out under braking
Clean the breather pipes and the throttle body inlet and butterfly. Amazingly, the small amounts of oily deposits in and around this area causes the erratic idle and cut-out under braking. Also check the breather pipes for damage and/or splits.

By no means are these the ultimate solutions to these problems, but feedback from many VW owners have shown positive results.

History
The heart of the Golf GTI is its engine. The Golf's engine began life in the Audi workshop. Back in the 1970's Audi developed a new engine for their Audi 80's. This engine (EA827) had overhead camshaft, driven by a toothed belt. The camshaft lobes acted directly on bucket tappets on the valves, thus eliminating push rods, rockers and chains. Though this was not unique for 1972, unknown to VW it was a fairly significant step for Audi and would be for their new Golf.

As many of you know, the camshaft drives auxiliary shaft which provides gear drive for the distributor and oil pump. Another Vee grooved belt drives the water pump and alternator. Another new feature for the 1970's was the use of electric fans, which removed the necessity for crucial positioning of the radiator to allow a belt drive alignment. Oil was cooled by a finned alloy sump and since it is always cooling the oil, it took longer to warm up. Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection was featured on all Audi 80's sold in the USA from 1975 to improve exhaust emissions and not for performance increase.

Californian Audi's were fitted with catalysts. European Audi's featured this fuel injection later in 1975, which was known as the Audi 80 GTE (some were badged as GTi). Audi developed their engine using materials for the valve and seat that are compatible with the use of low lead fuels. These engines can withstand huge power modifications due to its strong cast iron block and 5 bearing counter weighted forged steel crankshaft.

In 1972, Audi developed a 1471cc (76.5mm bore x 80mm stroke) fitted with a twin choke carb (32/35 TDID) with a 9.8:1 compression ratio, which produced 85bhp. Inlet valve sizes were 34mm and exhaust valve size of 31mm, with 230 degree camshaft. They used this engine in their Audi 80 GL (which was later fitted to the Scirocco TS).

Later in 1973, this engine was increased to 1588cc (79.5mm bore x 80mm stroke) fitted with the larger twin choke carb (Solex 35/40 DIDTA), big bore exhaust with the same 9.8:1 compression ratio. The camshaft was retarded by 3 degree to give more top end. This engine produced 100bhp@6000rpm and 98lb ft@4000rpm. Just for comparison, the 1996 1.6 A4 engine (as used in the Audi A4) produces 101bhp@5300rpm and 103lb ft@3800rpm.

In 1975 the 1588cc engine was modified by increasing the inlet valve size to 38mm and reducing the compression ratio to 9.5:1, this increased power to 110bhp and 103lb ft@5000rpm. This engine was also fitted with a Bosch K-Jetronic Fuel Injection system. K-Jetronic Fuel Injection was in fact a mechanical system. The K? and the system operated on continuous fuel flow to the injectors. In the USA it is known as CIS?. The engine code for this was denoted by the letters YS.




Offline animaniac

  • GTI forum regular
  • ***
  • Posts: 156
Re: technical info regarding gti's Intermittently Cut-out!!
« Reply #1 on: 25 May 2005, 02:01 »
By 1976 the Golf was in production using the 1471cc Audi engine but fitted with a single carb, producing 70bhp, although a few Golf's used for Rallying were fitted with the 85bhp engine. VW may have been considering their air-cooled Type4 or the water cooled version of the NSU Prinz 1000, the K70. These may not have met the strict requirements for an engine that had to meet exhaust emissions, fuel economy, BHP, higher mileages, require less frequent servicing and other legislation's. VW planned on installing the 1588cc 100bhp Audi 80 GT engine in their new Golf, but when they saw the 110bhp Fuel Injection, VW development and motorsport engineers made sure their new Golf was fitted with it.

VW Golf GTI Mk1
Unfortunately, I have, as yet, never owned a Mk1, but have driven plenty and the first thing you notice is the direct feel and go-kart like handling. Many owners feel they need to upgrade many of the components and starting with suspension and brakes end up with engine mods, exhausts and bigger alloys. My cousin owned a Mk1 Rivage, blue with cream leather, electric hood and chrome alloys.

VW Golf GTI Mk2
A very reliable car for its price, but there are certain design faults / common problems that occur with these models. My 16V suffered from minor electrical problems relating to the fuse board which cost me £10.00 to have diagnosed and repaired by an independent VW specialist

When i bought the 16V i had problems with the rear calipers, which would seize if the car was parked with the handbrake engaged over long periods. Some owners replaced them with Mk3 calipers, with a bit of fiddling do fit, but i purchased a new pair and spent the afternoon fitting them.

I had unstable idle and cutting out under braking or slowing on my Mk2 16V. The cause of which was a dirty regulator valve and other air/fuel sensors. Replaced the major components, which solved the problem. I also replaced all the earthing cables around the engine and baulk head.

VW Golf GTI Mk3
Not my favourite shape, but it is more refined and comfortable. Still fairly reliable apart from some minor electrical problems usually related to relays.

One common problem is that the car suddenly cuts out. After much searching the problem appears to be varied for different owners, but here is a list of the more common solutions for which many owners found 1 or more solved the problem, for others it appears they are still struggle, but at least this is a starting point.

If the car cuts out under braking or acceleration then try the following:

Engine Management Relay [#30 part #165906381]
Fuel Pump Relay [#167 part #191906383C]
Hall Sender and/or complete Distributor
Crank Speed Sensor
Coil/Transformer and/or HT & Ignition leads
Fuel Pump
If you experience revs dropping below normal or completely cuts out during idle or only cuts out when slowing or braking, then try the following:

Timing
Cleaning the throttle body
Cleaning the airflow meter
Hopefully something here will help solve your problems. If you discover anything new, then please let me know so i can add it to my list.

Common Mk3 problems
Breather pipes can split in and out of engine block, throttle body and airbox.
Throttle body & butterfly requires cleaning? including other breather pipes.
Catalyst heat shield becomes loose and rattles.
Pre 1995 models suffer from rear brake calipers seizing. Can be replaced with Post 1995 types without external spring.
Shock absorbers leak check bump stops.
Standard locking wheel bolts can seize.
Sump gasket and/or Rocker cover gasket can leak
Emission check the Cat before purchase, expensive to replace.
Alloys wheels (especially BBS) prone to corrosion if brake dust accumulates
Five door models suffer from corrosion on the rear doors.
Headlight switches can fail on pre 1995, check recall.
Speedo failure, check recall.
Faulty ignition switch can cause intermittent cut-out without warning, at any moment between idle and 70mph+
Electric window motors can be damaged due to water leaking into door.