Author Topic: sump replacement  (Read 3911 times)

Offline Dalo Harkin

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #10 on: 21 February 2012, 15:23 »
There is something else you should do - when you get underneath and the bolts look like they only take a 6mm hex socket to undo, its lies, my bolts were absoluteley caked in oil and I didnt see that you can get a 10mm socket around the outside of the bolt  :embarassed:

Also when you are refitting the bolts, I would order a few new ones because you will be very surprised when you come to fit 2 or 3 of them that they can get 'lost' in the casting very easily (like hollow sections that dont go anywhere) and I was damned if I was taking the other bolts out to get it , only to do it all again  :laugh:

You should not be losing bolts in 'hollow sections'! Some of which have access to your flywheel, not the best place to lose a bolt. I have removed my sump and many others never had to order 'spares'. If you dropped a bolt somewhere then undo them all and drop the sump again to retrieve the lost bolt - simples.

None of them go anywhere near the flywheel, the next time I have one off I will show you, its where the casing is thicker (gearbox side) I had already attached the sump and was on the last 1/2 bolts and trust me they can go to where your fingers cant reach
ARZ K03s, Oettinger Side Skirts, R32 front, Carbon stage 2, Forge 007p (yellow spring), Forge Actuator (yellow spring), Pipercross panel filter with DSG parts, N249 and N112 deleted, SAI deleted, Carbon canister deleted, Rear wiper deleted, Long Life turbo back custom exhaust with 200 cell sports cat, VR6/G60 clutch kit, Creation Motorsport TIP, Catch can, 'Wellycooler', K04 charge pipe, S3 ported inlet manifold - looks pretty standard on the outside though :)

Offline rockmonkey69

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #11 on: 21 February 2012, 15:41 »
There is something else you should do - when you get underneath and the bolts look like they only take a 6mm hex socket to undo, its lies, my bolts were absoluteley caked in oil and I didnt see that you can get a 10mm socket around the outside of the bolt  :embarassed:

Also when you are refitting the bolts, I would order a few new ones because you will be very surprised when you come to fit 2 or 3 of them that they can get 'lost' in the casting very easily (like hollow sections that dont go anywhere) and I was damned if I was taking the other bolts out to get it , only to do it all again  :laugh:

You should not be losing bolts in 'hollow sections'! Some of which have access to your flywheel, not the best place to lose a bolt. I have removed my sump and many others never had to order 'spares'. If you dropped a bolt somewhere then undo them all and drop the sump again to retrieve the lost bolt - simples.

None of them go anywhere near the flywheel, the next time I have one off I will show you, its where the casing is thicker (gearbox side) I had already attached the sump and was on the last 1/2 bolts and trust me they can go to where your fingers cant reach

I have taken my sump enough times believe me. Theres 2 that most people can't get to very easily and many drop these bolts, you can put your finger in there and feel your flywheel, next time your under the car put a fibre optic camera in and have a look for yourself please but do not state false information here. What's more if I drop a bolt I would not leave it in there, I would unbolt the sump and retrieve this bolt, I appreciate you may have a different approach...

There are gaskets for the sump, it is designed to be used dry and so there's no waiting time for the sealant to go off before filling the oil, it's also re-useable, which can be convenient if you will be taking your sump off now and then. Here's a picture of mine:


Personally I would only get the gasket over the sealant if you know you will be taking the sump off now and then, the gasket isn't cheap and the sealant works fine.
« Last Edit: 21 February 2012, 15:44 by rockmonkey69 »

Offline Dalo Harkin

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #12 on: 21 February 2012, 17:39 »
There is something else you should do - when you get underneath and the bolts look like they only take a 6mm hex socket to undo, its lies, my bolts were absoluteley caked in oil and I didnt see that you can get a 10mm socket around the outside of the bolt  :embarassed:

Also when you are refitting the bolts, I would order a few new ones because you will be very surprised when you come to fit 2 or 3 of them that they can get 'lost' in the casting very easily (like hollow sections that dont go anywhere) and I was damned if I was taking the other bolts out to get it , only to do it all again  :laugh:

You should not be losing bolts in 'hollow sections'! Some of which have access to your flywheel, not the best place to lose a bolt. I have removed my sump and many others never had to order 'spares'. If you dropped a bolt somewhere then undo them all and drop the sump again to retrieve the lost bolt - simples.

None of them go anywhere near the flywheel, the next time I have one off I will show you, its where the casing is thicker (gearbox side) I had already attached the sump and was on the last 1/2 bolts and trust me they can go to where your fingers cant reach

I have taken my sump enough times believe me. Theres 2 that most people can't get to very easily and many drop these bolts, you can put your finger in there and feel your flywheel, next time your under the car put a fibre optic camera in and have a look for yourself please but do not state false information here. What's more if I drop a bolt I would not leave it in there, I would unbolt the sump and retrieve this bolt, I appreciate you may have a different approach...


Well I had a look at the sump and if you look at the 2 you refer to I guess it is where the cast is thickest which is where I lost one, surely the flywheel would not be 'open' to the elements so to speak, if you can get your finger in there, then so can water and frost, and surely that would be a very big design flaw
ARZ K03s, Oettinger Side Skirts, R32 front, Carbon stage 2, Forge 007p (yellow spring), Forge Actuator (yellow spring), Pipercross panel filter with DSG parts, N249 and N112 deleted, SAI deleted, Carbon canister deleted, Rear wiper deleted, Long Life turbo back custom exhaust with 200 cell sports cat, VR6/G60 clutch kit, Creation Motorsport TIP, Catch can, 'Wellycooler', K04 charge pipe, S3 ported inlet manifold - looks pretty standard on the outside though :)

Offline rockmonkey69

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #13 on: 21 February 2012, 18:23 »
There is something else you should do - when you get underneath and the bolts look like they only take a 6mm hex socket to undo, its lies, my bolts were absoluteley caked in oil and I didnt see that you can get a 10mm socket around the outside of the bolt  :embarassed:

Also when you are refitting the bolts, I would order a few new ones because you will be very surprised when you come to fit 2 or 3 of them that they can get 'lost' in the casting very easily (like hollow sections that dont go anywhere) and I was damned if I was taking the other bolts out to get it , only to do it all again  :laugh:

You should not be losing bolts in 'hollow sections'! Some of which have access to your flywheel, not the best place to lose a bolt. I have removed my sump and many others never had to order 'spares'. If you dropped a bolt somewhere then undo them all and drop the sump again to retrieve the lost bolt - simples.

None of them go anywhere near the flywheel, the next time I have one off I will show you, its where the casing is thicker (gearbox side) I had already attached the sump and was on the last 1/2 bolts and trust me they can go to where your fingers cant reach

I have taken my sump enough times believe me. Theres 2 that most people can't get to very easily and many drop these bolts, you can put your finger in there and feel your flywheel, next time your under the car put a fibre optic camera in and have a look for yourself please but do not state false information here. What's more if I drop a bolt I would not leave it in there, I would unbolt the sump and retrieve this bolt, I appreciate you may have a different approach...


Well I had a look at the sump and if you look at the 2 you refer to I guess it is where the cast is thickest which is where I lost one, surely the flywheel would not be 'open' to the elements so to speak, if you can get your finger in there, then so can water and frost, and surely that would be a very big design flaw

It's not the only hole to the gearbox, you have an inspection hole above the gearbox too, point is it serves a purpose, I believe the bottom holes allow for water to drain out of the gearbox should any come through the inspection hole above. This is not to say your flywheel is exposed, it's within reach of your fingers if you pry about them two holes. It would be difficult for water to get in because it is a small hole and as you pointed out the sump has more material there. It's the reason the design is as difficult as it is to gain enxtry for them 2 bolts.

Offline Granta Gti

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #14 on: 21 February 2012, 20:07 »
77k so dont think its necessarry!!!  :wink:

thanks mate

I have overtaken you now! 78 k almost 79 :(
You doing it on Saturday or Sunday? Let me know if you need a hand. Might be able to get it in the workshop instead of fooling about on the floor  :wink:

Offline rockmonkey69

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #15 on: 21 February 2012, 22:32 »


You can see the two holes where the bolt for the sump goes, notice it's inside the gearbox with the flywheel. My picture doesn't have bolts there because I'm stripping the block down, I just placed the sump back on to illustrate the position of the two bolts.

Offline Wayne

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Re: sump replacement
« Reply #16 on: 21 February 2012, 23:42 »
Those 2 bolts are easy enough to reach with a wobble socket extension.