Naughty 'Valver - Relay 30? Update5 - VAG-COM Results

[stow1985]

I had a similar sounding problem with my 8v when I first got it.  It would hesitate at 3000rpm at the beginning (just noticably) but after a couple of months it was absolutely gutless above that figure and ran like a bag of turd.

After changing everything in the electrical circuit such as coil/leads/dizzy cap and rotor arm/plugs, fuel and ecu relays, the lambda sensor (twice) and the thermostat....it turned out to be the air flow meter.

I must admit...I unplugged my air flow my air flow meter and the car didn't behave any differently which does point the finger at the flow meter...how much would a genuine air flow meter cost?

[Seanl]

Mine did it too. Although it was actually quite violent jerking at 3k. Changed the MAF and all was good. I got a good used one for about £8 including delivery from the Bay. Expect to pay in excess of £100 plus your old unit in exchange if buying a new one from ECP/GSF.

[Leon27]

The 8v engines have a MAF sensor however the 16v uses a MAP sensor which is built into the ECU. Both types of sensors basically calculate how much air is going into the engine that's why the fault symptoms will be the same when they go wrong.

S.M. maybe back to basics - with the car not used then showing the fault makes me think it could be something simple. But as you wait for Vag-Com try spraying WD40 or water displacement stuff on your electrical connectors - free and easy. Also check the condition of everything you haven't replaced, I had a non start fault with a coil pack that had a tiny crack in it causing water to get in. Would not start easily in the morning but for the rest of the day it would behave. Read that you changed your coil but check your leads and pull them off at either end to inspect the contacts.
Did you get to replace the dizzy arm and cap?

The earth cleaning wasn't in vain! Extra 10bhp for sure! And also its better you've cleaned them now rather than seeing them as bit of corroded dust in the future 

[Edwh0re]

I had a similar sounding problem with my 8v when I first got it.  It would hesitate at 3000rpm at the beginning (just noticably) but after a couple of months it was absolutely gutless above that figure and ran like a bag of turd.

After changing everything in the electrical circuit such as coil/leads/dizzy cap and rotor arm/plugs, fuel and ecu relays, the lambda sensor (twice) and the thermostat....it turned out to be the air flow meter.

I must admit...I unplugged my air flow my air flow meter and the car didn't behave any differently which does point the finger at the flow meter...how much would a genuine air flow meter cost?

Thats a bit weird though, it *should* revert to default settings if its unplugged and run normally (according to the guy who diagnosed mine - Mark Tweed at GT Motorsport in Stoke).  That is what happened when we unplugged my faulty one.  He came to this diagnosis after plugging it to a Launch diagnostics tool and then driving it and keeping an eye on the data received.

I got mine for literally £100 exchange at GSF - through my mates trade account. Genuine Hitatchi one.  I wouldn't mess around with cheap ebay specials however, I know of 2 folks who have put cheap MAF's on cars for it not to cure the fault, and in the end it has turned out that the cheapy MAF was faulty and a genuine one has sorted it.

[stow1985]

I had a similar sounding problem with my 8v when I first got it.  It would hesitate at 3000rpm at the beginning (just noticably) but after a couple of months it was absolutely gutless above that figure and ran like a bag of turd.

After changing everything in the electrical circuit such as coil/leads/dizzy cap and rotor arm/plugs, fuel and ecu relays, the lambda sensor (twice) and the thermostat....it turned out to be the air flow meter.

I must admit...I unplugged my air flow my air flow meter and the car didn't behave any differently which does point the finger at the flow meter...how much would a genuine air flow meter cost?

Thats a bit weird though, it *should* revert to default settings if its unplugged and run normally (according to the guy who diagnosed mine - Mark Tweed at GT Motorsport in Stoke).  That is what happened when we unplugged my faulty one.  He came to this diagnosis after plugging it to a Launch diagnostics tool and then driving it and keeping an eye on the data received.

I got mine for literally £100 exchange at GSF - through my mates trade account. Genuine Hitatchi one.  I wouldn't mess around with cheap ebay specials however, I know of 2 folks who have put cheap MAF's on cars for it not to cure the fault, and in the end it has turned out that the cheapy MAF was faulty and a genuine one has sorted it.

Yeah I can believe that

[Stirring Moose]

Ok, quick update. Haven't had chance to actually do any more to the car. Problem is still the same; leave her a few days and she drives like a pig, go to try the next day and she's fine. Just had her on VAG-COM and nothing showed up, either in the fault codes or in live monitoring, but then she is having an "on" day today and working fine so not entirely suprising! On the up side, have got the use of a data logger for a bit so going to see if we can catch the gremlin in the act with that.

S.M.

[todd]

Sounds like a moisture problem spray wd40 into all the connections especially the main engine wiring plug (big black round should be on right hand side of the engine) I've also had a miss fire on mine when damp it was the ht leads earthing out on the coilpack it's worth a go and wd40 won't let the damp back in

[stow1985]

Sounds like a moisture problem spray wd40 into all the connections especially the main engine wiring plug (big black round should be on right hand side of the engine) I've also had a miss fire on mine when damp it was the ht leads earthing out on the coilpack it's worth a go and wd40 won't let the damp back in

Worth a shot 

[Gash]

i tried all that as above because im having a misfire/lumpy running.

basically seems to happen more when wet although sometimes doesnt (like this morning it didnt, but tonight it did)

replaced the coil, relay 30, had new leads and spark plugs recently, and sprayed wd40 on the earths and dizzy to see if that changed didnt loads but is happening less i suppose.

seem if i put the throttle pedal down it will come back to life after loosing most power (although wont stall).. im beginning to think it could be then something to do with fueling/ going to check the fuel filter next weeek (as dont think thats been changed in ages!)

any other suggestions?

[Leon27]

Gash - Did you replace relay 167 as well? Its the fuel pump relay, can drop out momentarily and cause a bit of starvation. Another thing I'd check is your vac line to the MAP sensor from the back of the inlet manifold, the fuel pressure reg vac line and there's a little one near the PCV.