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I will write a post up and you can move to wherever it needs to go. Bit long winded and you may need to spell check lol.
Please leave the disclaimers etc in if you do any editing. Thanks.
LEAKY ROOF HANDLES!!
If you are having the classic drippy handles then here are some of the possibilities of a cure.
These may work for some and not others depending on the initial problem.
There are various schools of thought on why this happens.
On older or poorly maintained hoods, the waterproofing ability becomes diminished.
Subsequently water can seep through the skin and collect in the frame arms, these channel the water generally to the handle area, where the drip becomes apparent.
Certain seams on the hood manufacture can also become unglued along the length of the hood and you will see sometimes a welted construction on the join too.
Mohair provided there are no holes or rips etc can be re waterproofed, but if it's damaged why keep it. It's only going to get worse and let’s face it cabby owners are scared of having a new roof. Remember if it has a hole or rip it will get water in it somewhere. Plus you wouldn't leave a hole in the roof of your house now.
Vinyl is really a plasticiser poured onto a cotton background, in the early days there were issues of shrinkage with the cotton, just like your best shirt your Mum shrunk in the washer. In most but not all modern manufacturers now use pre shrunk cotton to avoid the shrinkage issue. However they are still out there with the old shrinkage problem. Another issue is over stretch the opposite of the shrinkage problem. This occurs when the hood looses its elastic properties.
This will prevent tightening of the J hooks at the front, so more of that later.
The vinyl can end up with tiny holes in it where the plastic has worn thin and been degraded by the UV rays and general atmospheric conditions and wear and tear. The hoods then become porous.
The tiny holes will allow water to come through and in reality unlike Mohair the sensible option is replacement.
Vinyl can last between 3-7 years or longer depending on aftercare. Mohair can last a little longer if you water proof it and keep the cats off it and from clawing at it too. So make sure treating the hood properly is part of your regime.
J HOOK ADJUSTMENT
A common cure for the drippy handles or wet leg syndrome, lol is to make sure the Side front seals make contact with the header seal at the very front. For this we need to adjust the "J" hooks at the front.
Slacken the lock collar and wind the hooks in, VW recommend 4 turns of thread showing, but in practice it would be whatever achieves the gap to close. Be careful you don’t over tighten on the first go, the handles become brittle over the years and can snap . The handle should not be sloppy to close nor over tight, so tread carefully. If you find the J hooks are fully wound in and there is no more adjustment to bring the hood forward, then it may well mean it's been adjusted over the years and has now overstretched. Replacement hood should be considered.
THE FRONT HEADER SEAL
This seal runs across the top of the windscreen frame and the top presses down onto it.
At the front run a strip of masking tape along the edge aligned where the seal meets the paint work. This is to protect the paint work when you apply your sealant. Using non setting mastic put the nozzle under the lower seal edge at the very beginning of the seal, door side and apply inwards towards the centre by about 7 inches. Clean up and remove the tape.
FOAM GASKET SEALS
These foam gaskets fit under the side rubber seal retainers and are replaced as follows.
1. OPEN YOUR HOOD TO ALLOW ACSESS. ON THE REAR SECTIONS YOU WILL NEED TO LOWER THE REAR WINDOWS TO ASISST.
2. LOCATE THE RUBBER SEALS THAT RUN ALONG THE EDGE OF THE ROOF THAT CONTACT THE WINDOWS.
3. USING AN APPROPRIATE TOOL, PRISE THE SEAL UP FROM THE CENTRE OF THE METAL RETAINER. DO NOT PULL FROM THE ENDS AS THESE ARE LOCATED INTO PLASTIC CLIPS AT THE ENDS, THESE WILL SNAP OFF.
4. UNSCREW THE METAL RETAINERS AND GENTLEY PULL AWAY, HAVING AN APPROPRIATE TOOL TO CUT THROUGH ANY ADHESIVE THAT REMAINS.
5. ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SEAL RETAINER YOU WILL SEE THE REMNANTS OF THE OLD FOAM.
6. USING AN APPROPRIATE TOOL REMOVE THE OLD FOAM FROM THE AREAS OF THE FRAME AND RETAINERS &THOURGHLY CLEAN IN PREPARATION FOR THE NEW SEALS.
7. THE SEALS MAY BE LONGER THAN THE METAL REATINERS AND MAY OVERLAP THE EDGES OF THE RETAINER, SIMPLY FOLD THESE UP OVER THE ENDS OF THE RUBBER SEALS ONCE REPLACED. 2 OF THE SEALS ARE SHORTER THAN THE REST AND MUST BE FITTED TO THE 2 REAR SECTIONS.
8. REMOVE CAREFULLY THE YELLOW BACKING STRIP (AVOIDING PULLING THE TAPE FROM THE GASKET MATERIAL IT’S SELF), TO EXPOSE THE ADHESIVE SRTIP AND PLACE CENTERALY ONTO THE METAL RETAINER, ENSURING THEY ARE PRESSED DOWN FIRMLY. REFIT THE METAL RETAINERS TO THE FRAME USING YOUR EXISTING SCREWS.
9. YOU WILL NOTE THAT THE FIRST SCREW OF THE FRONT RUBBER SEALS GOES THROUGH THE SEAL IT’S SELF. ONCE ALL THE OTHER SCREWS ARE IN PLACE. RUN A BEAD OF SILICONE SEALANT AROUND THIS AREA APPROX 15MM WIDE AND AT LEAST 50MM AT THE FRONT FIRST SCREW HOLE ON THE RETAINER, BACKWARDS AND REPLACE YOUR RUBBER SEALS, REMOVING ANY EXCESS SILICONE SEALANT AS YOU TIGHTEN THE SCREW. LUBRICATING THE SEALS WITH LIQUID SILICONE OR A SMALL AMOUT OF WASHING UP LIQUID WILL ASSIST IN SLIDING EITHER END OVER THE CLIPS. PLACE THE REAR PART OF THE SEAL IN FIRST AND PUSH THE FRONT EDGE IN UNTIL IT LOCATES INTO THE GROOVE ON THE METAL RETAINERS, USING AN APPROPRIATE TOOL. FINALLY WIPE OVER THE AREA, TO REMOVE EXCESS LIQUIDS.
A PILLAR GUTTERING TRIMS
These are often missing sometimes only on one side. These need to be inline and up towards the hood front corner so they take the water away. If loose remove gently, clean up and re-stick using an automotive adhesive i.e. Tiger seal.
SIDE TENSIONING CABLES
These run through a channel in the hood it's self anchoring at the rear section of the frame and at the front of the frame.
The job is to pull the hood down tight over the sides, so water gets shed off and away. When these snap or the wrong ones fitted they can allow bagginess around the front and water can run underneath. Usually very noticeable at the front windows.
OTHER COMMON LEAKS
If you find wet foot wells check the following.
You have a scuttle tray that runs across the blower motor plastic cage cover.
The drain hole mini tubes are clear at either end of the scuttle tray these often fill with rubbish, old leaves etc.
If these are left blocked water can fill the tray and then run down the nearest opening, usually the blower housing guard and through any other holes.
Check that any rubber grommets that are installed for things such as looms, cable etc are properly seated.
A common thing is for additional wires Ariel cables etc to be poked through the sides which can leave a gap.
Windscreen corners.
Very common issue the frame rusts at the bottom in the corners and you can get ingress of water, so be aware that the Fuse box can be compromised by the water issues.
CABBY WET OR RUST STAINS ON REAR PARCEL SHELF
When the roof has been replaced and the silicone has not been applied to the appropriate areas, whilst reinstating the window seal and glass. You can notice a drip from around the hinge bolt areas and the corners.
Solution, press out the glass and seal, removing the heater wires first of course.
Inspect frame for rust, clean up and rust treat where possible.
Check condition of the staples that hold the hooding material in place.
Apply silicone to the opening where the staples are all around the aperture.
Apply silicone to the ridges inside the seal. Place Parra cord around the seal lip crossing at the bottom, locate bottom of seal over frame lip and have someone press and pat the glass form the outside whilst you slowly draw the cord out. This should locate and fold the seal lip back over the frame edges.
Next run wide masking tape along the edge of the seal where it meets the roof material on the outside, use smaller pieces to allow for the curve of the seal. Apply silicone nozzle under the seal lip and go round. Clean up and remove masking tape.
BASIC HOOD CARE
Vinyl need washing with soapy water etc, rinse and dry. Apply 303 Aerospace Protectant. It is not recommended using any chemical that contains petroleum distillates etc as these attacks the plasticisers on the hood and can lead to premature failure.
Mohair treatment begins with a soft brushing to remove dirt, followed by a soapy water wash, rinse allow to dry apply RAGG TOPP treatment. Harrtz who are the biggest manufacturer of the hooding material recommend Ragg Topp.
Colouring a mohair hood can be achieved by using a product Manufactured by the company Renovo.
Ideal for when the colour has faded. They also do a range of hood treatments too.
Personally I do not recommend trying to colour a vinyl hood.
SMALL PRINT
YOU alone are responsible for undertaking any work done to your vehicle using the above guides.
Chalky White and GolfGTI.co.uk will not be held Liable/responsible for any injury or damage caused to you or your vehicle whatsoever whilst using any information on these guides to maintain, repair or otherwise undertake work.
By using the guides above you accept the provisos as laid out above and below.
Chalky White is to be recognised as copyright owner of the above work and contents, whilst it may be disseminated to assist others it may not be used for profit making purposes.
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