Is this right???

[Seanl]

Hi gents, sure I'll now become a permanent fixture in these parts, as I've gon and got myself a corrado kr. I think this is the same/ very similar setup to the mk2 16v, so was wondering if you could help me out with a few issues.

First up is a cold start issue. Sometimes takes a little gas, or 2 or 3 cranks before it fires. Reading up and I plan on giving the WUR a clean out as well as ISV and TB. Is there any other things I should check??
Second is the water temps. Coming from a mk3 8v  :embarassed:, I'm used to temp guage solid at 90 degs. I know the weather may play a part, but mine is sitting between 75 and 85 degs, (no higher or lower). Doesn't move up in traffic, and oil temps are sound between 90 - 100 depending on driving conditions ect, so I'm swaying away from a duff stat. To add to this, the heaters don't get even slightly warm. Top and bottom rad hoses nice and hot, as are the pipes after the bypass valves. Suspect my heater matrix is blocked, so plan on trying to flush it through tomorrow, weather dependent. I do have a spare though for worst case. Could these be linked???
Finally the fuel economy is piss poor. Indicated 15-20 mpg on MFA, could this also be linked (warm up map/ constant choke type thing???) it had an RR tune up in 2007 at TSR, not recent but not that long ago so unless someone has tampered with the metering head, surely it shouldn't be that bad???

Any help/suggestions very much appreciated. Thanks guys. 

[pigbladder]

temps sound reasonble ..keep an eye on it

id take the bypass valves out and see how the heater works then

wur cant really be cleaned much , make sure all the service parts like rotor arm , plugs etc are A1 and have the timing and co checked , isv is always worth cleaning but wont effect its cold start   

[Seanl]

Thanks mate. Gonna give it a good service next week - oil, all filter, dizzy & rotor arm, plugs, leads, belts excluding cam belt, and chuck some BG44k through it. Got some copper pipe earlier so gonna try bypassing the bypass valves..... And see how I get on then as a flush through of the matrix didn't show any evidence of blockages. Hopefully have some of the little "quirks" sorted. 

[Seanl]

Swapped out the bypass valves for some copper pipe, and I now have Lukewarm heaters. They didn't start getting warm until about 85 degs though so I think it maybe a combination of duff stat, and a slightly blocked matrix after all.

[mk2bal]

If the matrix is corroded/ready to blow, you may have sped up the process by pumping hotter higher pressure water through it. As soon as you are sure its the matrix I'd get one ordered and fitted sharpish

[Seanl]

I've got a spare matrix. Just wanna wait until next week when I replace the stat before I start pulling the dash out.

[pigbladder]

if you pull the dash be prepared that the heater box flaps might need repair...theyre foam covered and it fails , so new foam or duct tape to seal them up again

and...where the dash is made from board type material the duct that vents to the screen can split , these need sticking back down with pu sealer or fibre glass 

[Seanl]

Deep joy!

[rob.043]

good luck with the matrix change, take it steady, dont overly force things and it will be fine. Get your calculator out and check your mpg, that does sound poor, but the MFA can be wildly wrong.

[Sam]

Hi gents, sure I'll now become a permanent fixture in these parts, as I've gon and got myself a corrado kr. I think this is the same/ very similar setup to the mk2 16v, so was wondering if you could help me out with a few issues.

First up is a cold start issue. Sometimes takes a little gas, or 2 or 3 cranks before it fires. Reading up and I plan on giving the WUR a clean out as well as ISV and TB. Is there any other things I should check??

===Yes this is a good place to start, it will also be worth replacing leads (use genuine to avoid problems) and change the plugs. Dont bother with any fancy 4 sparl bollox, standard good quality will be fine.

Second is the water temps. Coming from a mk3 8v  :embarassed:, I'm used to temp guage solid at 90 degs. I know the weather may play a part, but mine is sitting between 75 and 85 degs, (no higher or lower). Doesn't move up in traffic, and oil temps are sound between 90 - 100 depending on driving conditions ect, so I'm swaying away from a duff stat.

=====Does your rad fan kick in at all? If not there is a sensor for it on the bottom right of the rad as you look at it. IIRC there is a water temp sensor in the right side of the head, It would be worth replacing this too

To add to this, the heaters don't get even slightly warm. Top and bottom rad hoses nice and hot, as are the pipes after the bypass valves. Suspect my heater matrix is blocked, so plan on trying to flush it through tomorrow, weather dependent. I do have a spare though for worst case. Could these be linked

=====Chances are... no! Sounds like your matrix is fubar, have fun replacing it  there are plenty of guides out there

Finally the fuel economy is piss poor. Indicated 15-20 mpg on MFA, could this also be linked (warm up map/ constant choke type thing???) it had an RR tune up in 2007 at TSR, not recent but not that long ago so unless someone has tampered with the metering head, surely it shouldn't be that bad???

======Chances are after 20 years she wont be reading right, work out your MPG yourself and see what you get

Any help/suggestions very much appreciated. Thanks guys. 

Hope the above helps