question for carbon chiptuning

[cmr2011]

My golf is gti 1.8 turbo standard ive been thinking of changing turbo for k03s but what could you do with it max out put? its a 1999 agu?

Cheers
Craig

[Carbon-Chiptuning]

Hi Craig,

You're looking at around 180-190Hp and over 200 ft/lb with your current hardware. I'd also recommend a Forge Motorsport Diverter valve to avoid immediate or eventual problems with the OEM dv.

If you want to go for the turbo upgrade from the start then there a few other mods you might want to consider:

CAI (Cold Air induction/Induction kit)

Performance exhaust with sports cat/decat

Upgraded TIP (Turbo inlet pipe)

Front mounted intercooler

They are all optional and ultemately it depends on what you want from the car. Mainly it comes down to how much of the OEM refinement you are prepared to sacrifice in the quest for power. They are pretty loud with induction kit and full exhaust and thats not everyones cup of tea 

With just the turbo upgrade you should be looking at over 200Hp 230 ft/lb with a custom remap depending on how hard you want to push it.

Obviously you could go bananas and do the mods above plus many more and go for 230Hp+ but it will loose a lot of its oem refinement and require a lot of other mods people often forget to factor into their budget:

Upgraded brakes

Upgraded suspension

Premium tyres

High possibility of needing upgraded clutch

Any other items that may need replacement eg. MAF + N75J (upgrade)

It all comes down to how much you want to spend and what you want your car to become.

Most people start with just a remap and work their way up doing various mods as they go along then you have a good gauge of how the mods are impacting both the cars performance and refinement.

I hope this answers your question.

Please feel free to give me a call for a chat if you want any other info.

Kind regards,

Nick
 

My golf is gti 1.8 turbo standard ive been thinking of changing turbo for k03s but what could you do with it max out put? its a 1999 agu?

Cheers
Craig

[cmr2011]

Hi thats great i was looking at getting it to arround 200hp/220hp wouldnt trust my wife with anymore power lol

[Grand Master Patch]

N75J upgrade?

What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?

[porter_89]

im running the j valve and find it boost faster than the f valve i use to have and hit 20 psi and drop to 15 in top revs

[RTechUK]

im running the j valve and find it boost faster than the f valve i use to have and hit 20 psi and drop to 15 in top revs

But it will make you loose power else where, gives a stronger kick early on in the rpm range, but one the ecu pids adapt the end results will be less area under the curve. This has been discussed many times on the forums. If you want more boost you get the ecu software mapped correct so the n75 duty cycle map is controlling the boost, not a valve which due to it's reaction charictistics gives an uncontrolled spike,

[Carbon-Chiptuning]

N75J upgrade?

What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?

Hi there,

I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........

We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.

On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.

If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject 

Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!

Kind Regards,

Nick

[RTechUK]

N75J upgrade?

What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?

Hi there,

I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........

We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.

On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.

If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject 

Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!

Kind Regards,

Nick

All the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75  playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.

I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm..  Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi  but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.

[Carbon-Chiptuning]

N75J upgrade?

What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?

Hi there,

I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........

We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.

On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.

If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject 

Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!

Kind Regards,

Nick

All the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75  playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.

I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm..  Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi  but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.

“so if you have a N75  playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line”
In English???

Only messing mate, I understand what you are trying to say.......

Adjustment often doesn’t work if the OEM valve is tired and as posted earlier WE prefer the ‘J’ as a replacement – just personal preference nothing more.

“Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi  but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge”

WTF were u doing to that poor car! Just shy of 2Bar and I’d have been cringing too.

We’ve never had anything like that boost with the N75J.

[RTechUK]

N75J upgrade?

What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?

Hi there,

I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........

We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.

On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.

If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject 

Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!

Kind Regards,

Nick

All the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75  playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.

I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm..  Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi  but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.

“so if you have a N75  playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line”
In English???

Only messing mate, I understand what you are trying to say.......

Adjustment often doesn’t work if the OEM valve is tired and as posted earlier WE prefer the ‘J’ as a replacement – just personal preference nothing more.

“Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi  but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge”

WTF were u doing to that poor car! Just shy of 2Bar and I’d have been cringing too.

We’ve never had anything like that boost with the N75J.

Its mapped for 23psi on the stock valve 1399hpa @ 95% duty until 3200rpm then cuts to 64%dc the J cannot react quick enough causing a overshoot.
On a customers car it would not see 29psi only mine