1.6 Carb mounting

[VWDino]

Anyone know how much movement there should be in a 1.6 Drivers carb? Mine doesn't seem to be secure and can be moved back and forth. I think I can spot a slight leak where the mounting is too  . Is the mounting rubber?
Cheers in advance, Dave.

[Rain]

the mounting is infront of the radiator round thing looks kinda like a bell the rear is on the left rear side not sure on a 1.6 carb but it be the only point where the engine touchs the body or i should hope.

check ya mounts by putting the car in gear, 1st then reverse and just lifting the clutch as high as you can without moving or stalling and see how far the engine moves it shouldnt move very far if the mounts are good if there bad it will dip low to the front or rear more than 2/3 inchs movement normally means one of the mounts is gone, normally the front one but id replace both there not expensive or overly difficult to fit but if your unsure get a garage to do it.

[VWDino]

Sorry, I mean the flange between the carb and the manifold. My carb seems to have a bit of movement. Cheers 

[Rain]

no worries i can see what you mean now :S havent messed with carbs since i was 17 and owned a 1litre fiesta that made me sea sick but i dont think it should move at all only maybe minimal movement from engine vibrations if its really moving and there is a leak then definitly need to change the flange for sure.

[dubslug]

yeah it rubber, if its split replace it asap, u can get one from gsf of euro car parts failt cheap and its an easy job to fix, well worth it too

[Volkswagavin]

Yep, its rubber and its prone to splitting.  There should be barely any movement at all, althought they occasionally come into contact with the tray that hangs over the bulkhead.  If its anything like my old driver, it'll get progressively worse and become almost undrivable.  The bigger the split, the more unfiltered air gets in, leaning out your mixture and making it stall everywhere and impossible to rev. 

The flange only costs a few quid to replace, but its a swine to get at.  You have to get the carb off the mounting first and then get the rest off.  If you have the weber conversion you'll have to get some of the carb off before detatching it from the flange.  Alternatively, you could glue the hole, but be careful not to get any glue into the inlet manifold.

[VWDino]

Cheers guys, I'll take a good luck pretty soon cos I'm sorting the tappets and adding a GTi cam whilst I'm at it  How much are these mountings? I saw something that sounded like it for £20 from GFS car parts! I am having a few running issues with the car at the mo, High idle (over 1000 revs) and it seems to miss when rolling from cold. (Hicups a bit when i lift off the accelerator).
Cheers again.

[moonsta]

  the carb mounts are about £10+ vat from europart instead of the £20 or so that GSF charge...........not that hard to fit either.........good luck

[Volkswagavin]

As far as your "running issues" go, the hiccuping can be attributed to the hole in your carb flange, although the high idle can be adjusted once the flange has been replaced. If its the pierberg 2E2 carb the adjustment screw is on the top I believe, if its the weber replacement (recommended) its towards the bottom.

Keep the original airbox on if you can, although it doesn't sound as nice as the K&N kit, it prevents too much carb movement and thusly the splitting of your flange.

[rubjonny]

One way to tell is to wiggle the carb and spray WD40 round the flange, if the idle changes then the flage has defo had it

You shouldn't need to adjust the idle normally, it sounds like you have a problem with the coolant channel o'ring, which causes poor running from cold and high idling when warm, check my FAQ on the 2e2 here:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0