I am pretty inexperienced with modern cars most of my knowledge is with classics (despite being 19). I drive a 1989 Austin Mini, the engine has very few standard components remaining it has: Larger hif44 carb (idle speed and mixture can be adjusted with a couple of screws or a new needle) with K&N cone filter, alloy ported inlet manifold, LCB exhaust manifold to straight though exhaust, gas flowed fully ported and polished cylinder head with larger valves and double valve springs with unleaded valve seats, high lift roller rockers, blocked bored to take 73.5mm pistons giving 1380cc (from 1275), new cam (yes just one, which is deep in the engine) has 297 degrees duration (chugs on idle), modified distributor for race curve (rotating it adjusts advance and retard, changing weights and springs inside adjusts ignition curve), up rated clutch (pretty much on or off), lightened flywheel, balanced bottom end all on a short ratio gearbox with a 4 pin diff I could go on but that is most of it, gives just over 100bhp in a car that weighs about 650kg, so about 160bhp / ton.
Now this is my daily driver and it’s getting a bit much, lumpy cam and clutch are a pain in traffic and is a bit thirsty so I am looking for a replacement, I think a mk4 golf gti (1.8 turbo) would be a nice replacement. Now my question is how do stage 1 remaps work, how do they give better performance but use no more fuel? Practically all the mods to the mini give better performance work by allowing the engine to take in more air and more fuel. So how do remaps work, do they alter the ignition timing to give more or less advanced? If so does that not lean out the mixture or is it just a case of upping the boost a bit and checking the fuelling isn’t too lean. Out of curiosity I would love to know how they work, feel free to be as technical as you like in your response I need to learn the lyngo sooner or later.