mk3 gti 8v cutting out problem

[on-the-rampage]

hey everyone. i'm just new to this forum today
i've just bought a 97 p reg mk3 8 valve today was going fine on way home until half way into my journey it lost all power oil light come in and revs went to zero

not great on motorway
so had a look under bonnet couldn't see anything tried starting her up and she fired 1st time so on i went only to get 1/2 mile up the road and same again 3 times it done this so give it up as a bad job and got it recovered home

any idea's it could be

cheers

but also i started it and left it ticking over and was fine idleing for 40 mins never missed a beat

[polo6n222]

i did have this prob once could be one of the relaoys cant rember what ones they are 30 and 167 i think but try getting it connected to vag-com and see what faults it comes up with

[panzer V]

sounds like its the crank sensor thing !! bout £80 to fix/replace
im sure someone will clarify it  

[dom]

Start with the easiest and cheapest things first, first off give the throttle body a clean with some carb cleaner, as said above relays number 30 and 167 have a reputation for causing problems, but my guess would be the ecu temp sensor

Have a look here for some more info:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=101400.0

[on-the-rampage]

thanks guys i'll have a look today

[naturn007]

defo the relays, both my mark 3's have had that problem, changed the relays problem solved.   

[danmusic24]

poss coil starting to break down....

[Sii]

It was the crank position sensor that cured mine. It's an intermittant fault so a bugger to trace. When mine played up it felt like the power had been cut so suddenly: just like someone had pulled the plug. The wires inside break up with age so if it hasn't been done it will need doing at some point!
Good luck with that!

[sploosh]

deffo crank sensor ? just been through it mate i got a new one for £17 so not to bad at that price , what i found on mine that had happened the sensor has 3 wires to it they sit pretty close to the engine block so after time the protective plastic round the wires melts away ,the water flange to the engine block had a leak and was dripping periodically onto the bare wires and causing a short , there's a link on here that tell you how to change it and if you have a Haynes manual i found follow the instructions as for changing the front engine mount helped to get into it , hope this helps

[on-the-rampage]

just goint to purchace a haynes mannual so i'll have a look thanks