DA Machine Polishing

[tobydog]

Hello everyone,

Over the past 6 months I have steadily got the detailing bug and have enjoyed many weekends with my Silver GTI Edition 30 putting to use some of the tips you guys have given.  My last detail ready for winter included the following:

Wash - Noodle mit
Clay - Meguires Soft Clay
Wash
Polish - AG Super Resin
Glaze - Poorboys White Diamond Show Glaze
Seal x 2 - CG Jetseal 109
Wax x 2 - Collinite 915

Whilst I find the results of above combination truly stunning after a few hours work and I know some areas need improving (replace noodle mit for wookie, two bucket method, hand polish maybe Dodojuice Lime Prime), I often wonder how much better would me finish be if I was to invest in a DA Machine Polisher.

I have done a lot of reading on DA polishing and have become slightly torn between whether or not I should draw the line at hand polishing.  Could somebody please take the time to answer/explain my queries?

1.  I hear DA machines are relatively low risk compared to rotary types, however I do hear still a lot of care must be taken.  My paintwork is in excellent condition, I am seeking the highest reflection from a polish opposed to needing to 'cut' or remove deep swirls.  I suppose I'm asking whether using a DA in combination with a very light abrasive like Dodojuice Lime Prime or Poorboy's SSR1 with polishing and finishing pads could do any real harm to my clearcoat?
2.  I see paint thickness is something of primary importance when using a machine polisher, but I also hear this is more concerning when severe cutting is needed and also on older paintwork.  If I was to use a DA polisher twice yearly with very light polish, is this still a major concern?
3.  I often hear from the Pro-detailers on this forum that the ultimate finish can only really be achieved by machine, but done badly the results can be disastrous.  I have been reading up on technique for using a DA and wondered if I was to stick to these guides and ensure I do not apply too much pressure, would I get away with it, or is it a definite skill you have to be taught?

I suppose to summarise, I want that extra something special in terms of deep, reflective shine, but don't want to spoil my fun by doing more harm than good.

Any help on this topic will be thoroughly appreciated.


Thanks. 

[stealthwolf]

clicky

clicky 2

The two links should help with use of DA and rotaries.

In essence, DA is "safer" for beginners. Average paint is around 100-200 microns thick and you remove maybe 1-2 microns each time you machine polish, so if you stick to doing it twice a year, then you'll have probably scrapped the car before you reach clearcoat failure.

A light abrasive like LP has I think only 2/10 cut and used with a finishing pad, will leave an excellent finish. LP also contains oils and glazes to help give paint that wet look. If you were to machine your car or attempt paintwork correction, a paint thickness guage would be invaluable in determining how far you can go.

[Dan J]

good advice there stealthwolf, though id say a paintdepth gauge wouldnt be needed when using a DA as a DA wont really cut that deep tbh, you can get more cut out of limeprime if you use a medium cutting pad and really work it, like stealth said the LP has alot of glazing oils in it so not only dose this enhance the finish it also gives it a longer working time. ditch the srp because its filler heavy and will just mask what your trying to remove. try the menzerna range of polishes for good corrective results.

[tobydog]

Thanks for the advice Guys, much appreciated.

So looking at this again, I'm wanting the best shine possible above and beyond what I can achieve by hand, is a DA definitely the way forward?  The way I see me using the DA is with either Dodojuice LP or a Menzerna Final Finish polish (v light abrasives) with a medium cutting pad or perhaps even just a polishing pad then a finishing pad to step up my finish.

My concern is that my paintwork doesn't need any significant correction as it has no real scrathes or swirl marks, so I need to carefully ensure I don't strip back anything unnecessarily by using anyting too harsh.  As Stealthwolf says though, LP as an example gives only 2/10 cut and looking into it, Menzerna FF 1.5/5 cut so the way I'm looking at it once a year on my GTI this isn't going to do any harm.

[Dan J]

a DA will give you more uniform results over doing it by hand, you say your cars not that bad so lime prime on a finishing pad is what you want to tackle it with,
then apply some limeprime lite by hand, then seal it all up.

[tobydog]

Thanks for the advice guys.  I'm a little more confident now that a DA is the way forward.  My car isn't due a polish for a few months yet so a DA might be a good Christmas purchase so I'll soon be in touch with Waxamomo for recommendations. 

[waxamomo]

Thanks for the advice Guys, much appreciated.

So looking at this again, I'm wanting the best shine possible above and beyond what I can achieve by hand, is a DA definitely the way forward?  The way I see me using the DA is with either Dodojuice LP or a Menzerna Final Finish polish (v light abrasives) with a medium cutting pad or perhaps even just a polishing pad then a finishing pad to step up my finish.

My concern is that my paintwork doesn't need any significant correction as it has no real scrathes or swirl marks, so I need to carefully ensure I don't strip back anything unnecessarily by using anyting too harsh.  As Stealthwolf says though, LP as an example gives only 2/10 cut and looking into it, Menzerna FF 1.5/5 cut so the way I'm looking at it once a year on my GTI this isn't going to do any harm.

It sounds like you have got the perfect attitude to machine polishing, and in that I mean you don't want to take paint off unnecessarily. If you have only got slight swirls/marks, a DA with either a polishing or finishing pad with a good finishing polish will really bring the shine out in the paintwork. A polish like Lime Prime or a current favourite of mine Meguiar's 205 will really impress you with the results 

[KentBladeboy]

I use a Makita rotary and 3M polishing system, great results, just takes a little practice to master the machine.

[ramrod]

A good valeter would never machine polish a car unless the paintwork was totally f@cked

I can produce a shine on a car thats better than any machine, all it takes is a bit of time and hard work along with the right products.

I guess I am lucky as an ex-self employed valeter, i still have all my materials and chems

[tobydog]

The finish I currently get from wash-clay-wash-polish-glaze-seal-wax is stunning, but I just wondered if it could be that bit better, hence me asking the question.  It did enter my head that if I'm happy with the finish then maybe I should draw the line at my current method.  One thing for certain is that a machine would definitely speed up the process and save on the old arms!