cellulose or 2k

[danny_p]

any oppinions whats going to be better for a bear metal respray

[Neo Badness]

any oppinions whats going to be better for a bear metal respray

Depends, do you have access to a paint shop or are you doing this in the garage? Is it for a daily or a track slag?

2k is less forgiving if you've never painted before, cell is a bit more forgiving.
 If you've bare metal you'll need an etch primer to start with then build up from there. There are so many variables so a bit more info would help

[danny_p]

yup it's for the pet  track toy

im doing it in a garage but the garage has been renderd and plasterd out them painted to seal it,  i am about to resin seal the floors and make some screening to keep dirt from workbenches away. and electric have been installed so can pressure wash it out at will

i've used celly before but never 2k ive heard very differing oppinions of both. and i want to go a metalic colour

as for the kit i'll be useing

anyway filter mask pissed me off so just been and bought a devilbliss air fed resporator   but that means i can now use paints that give off isocyanites without worry of death.  hence thinking about 2k

sprayguns i have  gravity fed HVLP   1x 2mm 2x 1.8 mm 1x 1.6mm  1x 1.2mm   and a suction fed 2.0mm ( that i just tend to load up with thinners and use to clean the other guns )

lots of air sanders including microbelt, starightline and a few DA's ( all air )

and 75 CFM of diesel powerd air compressor + 18CFM of electric air compressor   with total resovor of 500 ltrs


think on the spraying frount i'm geting close to all the gear no idea, but can't learn if don't have proper tools to learn with




 

[VeeDubGTI16v]

go for 2k then, it will only be the lacquer anyway as metallic colours only come in celulose (or so i was told when i bought some metallic grey)

[Neo Badness]

Nice setup, sounds good. Prep is 90%. laquer takes a bit of practice to get right so you're better practicing on a spare bit of metal.

Should be pimp though. there's some good guides I'll post up later if you like?

[danny_p]

guides would be good.  more info th better really atm

never have any spare sheet in the workshop well not for very long anyway as it allways gets used,  however we have transit vans so practice is tidying them up.  went out shopping yesterday and bought a 16v mk3 that'll be breacking  but it's first use is going to be the final practice as plan to prep and spary it up exactly how i'm going to do the mk2 think i worked it out  it'll cost me about an extra £300 in materials.  i can live with that if it helps me get mine up better /  helps prevent me knackering it up

[Benrevs]

You should be fine with that lot and 2k. Just make sure you dont go any more coarse than 800 grit at the last stage before the basecoat.  It may also pay do a dry run around the car with some 'invisible paint', so you can plan your route around the motor as you dont want to end up with dry areas where the paint has cured by the time you join back up. Watch out for edges and body lines where paint can build up, its all to easy to apply more paint here and cause runs, especially with the clear coat.  I have always done an overlap of 70% when spraying along panels, this way it tends to flow better.

[danny_p]

the 800 grit before basecoat is intresting have been useing quite a lot coarser than that till now

[Benrevs]

Ive always used it as a fail safe way of making sure. As some colours especially silver, can show the key marks more than others. Also it allows for the abrasive manufacturers tolerances.  I used some Halfrauds p600 last week and I am pretty sure it was the same as 3m p400. Ben.