changing rear wheel bearings

[vanish]

Hello again Peeps, need to pick your brains about changing me bearings this time!
Gonna change pads and discs on the rear and also need to change the bearings while I'm at it, how hard is a job is it? Please bear in mind I've  no experience of working on cars but I am pretty mechanically minded!

I've read me Haynes manual and it all seems very straight forward but just wondered if anyone's got any useful tips to make it easier!

As always, all help greatly appreciated guys,
Cheers,
V

[adyh]

Simple enough .

You will need to buy split pins as well .

Ok .

1 . Remove The Wheel .
2.  You should now see the assembly before you . The rear calipers are held on via allen keyed bolts [10mm i seem to recall] Remove these and use a couple of cable tie to support the caliper, from the suspension strut to prevent damage to brake pipes
3. You should now be able to remove the pads from this .
4. Tap out the centre cap .
5. You should now see the split pin etc.
6. Remove the split pin [discard]
7. remove the bolt and other parts place these in a clean place [very important] .
8. The disk should now come off .
9. Remove and clean the Abs sensor and the hole it goes into . [ not part of the work but its a sod to get out if it breaks and is surrounded by carp].
10. Replace in reverse order .

11. Lots and lots of grease .
12 . Refer to Haynes manual for torque settings on final bolt .
13. Fit new split pin


Should take about 30 minutes per side but dont rush , and remember lots of grease . Also get some spray degreasant for the disks as you are bound to get grease every where on this job .

[Optimus Wol]

Not a bad idea to get a little bit of copper grease on the backing of the pads too.
nothing more annoying than putting it all back together just to find the brakes squeaking 20 yards down the road?

[ridgers]

That guide is complete nonsense.

Exactly what bolt are you on about?

You never torque up tapered bearings as this will kill them off.

They have to be adjusted to take up free play and nothing else, the common practice is to use a screwdriver and try to slide the washer under the nut.

The other method is to hold the disc at half past 6 and quarter to 3 and see if there is any free play.

This is why a split pin is used with a castled washer and split pin as this prevents the nut from turning and getting looser or tighter.

Also you failed to mention that you have to drift the outer bearing races into the disc before you fit them.

If I was to follow that guide my bearings wouldn't last a week.

[adyh]

Not had enough sleep? ?

Point taken about the nut  . One way to do it is to make it finger tight then back it off 90 degrees .

I was more talking about changing the discs than the bearing as i have not had to do the job .

[ridgers]

Sorry but he asked for a guide to doing discs, bearings and pads and the advice you gave was misleading.

I've had plenty of sleep and also seeing as I used to be a VAG mechanic I can d this kinda stuff whilst still asleep but obviously correctly.

[vanish]

I've had plenty of sleep and also seeing as I used to be a VAG mechanic I can d this kinda stuff whilst still asleep but obviously correctly.

You used to be a VAG mechanic and all you managed to post was two replies, one cussing someone else who was trying to help me and then another one waving your willy about being able to fix cars in your sleep. Damn shame you couldn't type a slightly more helpful reply whilst you were asleep too!!

Cheers for your help AdyH, got the job done no probs.

[adyh]

No worries mate .

 

MERRY XMAS

[ridgers]

I've had plenty of sleep and also seeing as I used to be a VAG mechanic I can d this kinda stuff whilst still asleep but obviously correctly.

You used to be a VAG mechanic and all you managed to post was two replies, one cussing someone else who was trying to help me and then another one waving your willy about being able to fix cars in your sleep. Damn shame you couldn't type a slightly more helpful reply whilst you were asleep too!!

Cheers for your help AdyH, got the job done no probs.

Good to see you think your a bit of a comedian as well as a bit of a mechanic.

I should have been more helpful you are correct. The how to guide was ok but I would add that you need to drift the outer bearing shells into the new disc and the easiest way to do this is to put the shells in the freezer over night and put the discs in the oven on the morning you want to do it.

Because obviously one has expanded and the other contracted you can drift them in as if there is no resistance.
I have made a couple of drifts for this purpose on a lathe but I've heard a rolling pin works wonders

When the bearings are in you need to put some grease into the back bearing and fit the inner bearing before you fit the seal.

place on the car. grease up the front inner bearing and put on a freshly wiped stub axle and push into place.

fit the washer and nut and hand tighten. then using the foresaid washer moving trick or I prefer the half past 6 and quarter to 3 postions on the disc check for play.

fit a new split pin and I always wipe out the old cap and refill a little with fresh grease and then tap this on.

I was just pointing out that tapered bearings aren't torqued up as I have seen this many a time and its a common mistake that is easily avoided.

I should have been more helpful and seeing as it is the festive season only more so.

Right who wants me to get my knob out then ?

merry crimbo 

[vanish]

Ay, you're not wrong, tis the season to be jolly!
Merry Crimbo to all!