Not Making The Figures...But

[master_oogwai]

Sorry, one question.

I have never changed a MAF before and going by the guide on here, it looks pretty straightforward enough.

Question is, does the MAF only connect one way? you cannot fit it back to front, upside down or whatever lol.

[Hulmie]

it is held in to the airbox by 2 screws, will only go one way mate

[Rhyso]

got any graphs??

did Chris say if it was holding the boost or tailing off very quickly?

[master_oogwai]

I got a graph, but not sure which run it was, as they ran the car a lot of times to find the missing ower.

The graph shows the torque was pretty constant up until 5500rpm when the curve starts to dip and tail off like when i use to have a Ko3.

Thanks Hulmie.

[Hulmie]

the peak power will be reached at around 5500rpm as its the same on most k03s setups that R-Tech have done. Mine hits peak at 5500rpm and then starts to tail off.

if its holding boost and fuelling right then the Torque curve will be nice and smooth and so will the bhp curve.

[master_oogwai]

I just had a look at devilz graph and my graph looks the same, apart from the curves on mine are really jagged throughout.

[topher]

I just had a look at devilz graph and my graph looks the same, apart from the curves on mine are really jagged throughout.

That's just the graph filtering on the dyno software, filter out the feedback too much and you get erroneous results

The fuelling was spot on so I wouldn't worry too much about changing the fuel filter. We had the turbo hitting 26psi at some points so it definitely isn't the new turbo at fault - although it might benefit from some actuator tweaking. It may be a timing issue, or it could be down to the maf. I think i'd need to spend a whole day on the car to really get to the bottom of it. Try the things we suggested and next time you're passing we'll stick it back on the rollers to see where we're at

[master_oogwai]

I just had a look at devilz graph and my graph looks the same, apart from the curves on mine are really jagged throughout.

That's just the graph filtering on the dyno software, filter out the feedback too much and you get erroneous results

The fuelling was spot on so I wouldn't worry too much about changing the fuel filter. We had the turbo hitting 26psi at some points so it definitely isn't the new turbo at fault - although it might benefit from some actuator tweaking. It may be a timing issue, or it could be down to the maf. I think i'd need to spend a whole day on the car to really get to the bottom of it. Try the things we suggested and next time you're passing we'll stick it back on the rollers to see where we're at

I thought 22psi was the most the car achieved that day, but 26 psi is good 

Thanks for clearing up the graph query mate, much appreciated. Just looking at it on paper it seems a bit scary considering the graph before the map was pretty smooth. I will be looking into a new MAF very soon. Once I have that sorted out, I will contact you guys to arrange another dyno run.

Cheers topher 

[master_oogwai]

After reading other posts about faulty mafs, some people have suggested to unplug the maf to see if this makes any difference.

I left the car parked up at work, turn the ignition on with the maf plugged in and it idled normally, no stutter, revs are stable and no warning lights.

Unplugged the maf, turned ignition on and no change at all. All seems ok.

Is this a good or bad sign? Do I need to drive the car with the maf unplugged to make sure?

Sorry for all the silly questions, but if all the above is a sign of a non faulty maf, I will leave it for now.

Although, I have to admit that I have owned the car for almost two years and the maf never has been changed.

[Hulmie]

You need to run the car with the MAF unplaugged, however it will be hard to notice any difference as your torque is 240 and you may only get gains of 0-10 lb/ft. the only way to really tell is to change the MAF and put it on the rollers again.

This said you may think that if no gains are made then youve wasted money.