Fan Motor Pinouts

[Meatpie]

Hi, I'm trying to faultfind with regards my sportline cab, seems there is a coolong problem. Think its the fan but neet to test fan with 12v from battery. Anybody able to tell me what the pinouts are for the fan? i have trawled the net and haynes manual but cant find the info.

Any info appreciated.

Thanks.

[rubjonny]

if you look at the fan, there is a brown wire, thats the earth. if its a 2 pin fan the other wire is +ve. if its a 3 pin fan the other 2 pins are slow & fast speed. easy

[Meatpie]

its a 3wire. thanks rj, knew i cound count on you

[Meatpie]

Tested the fan, works ok. Tested fuse for fan, also ok. still its overheating, hot water coming from the valve at the top of the expansion vessel. fan doesnt seem to come on no matter how hot it gets. any more ideas?

[rubjonny]

disconnect the rad fan temp switch, locarted bottom o rad passenger side. bridge the red wire to the other 2 wires in turn and fan should run slow & fast.  If so you can be 100% sure the fan and wiring is fine, and the issue lies with the sensor.  Also when the car gets to 3/4 on the gauge, thats when the fan should cut in at slow speed.
If it gets to 3/4 and fan still not cut in, feel the passenger side of the rad. If its cool to the touch it may be the rad is partially blocked, which mean the sensor wont make the fan cut in.  If its really hot then its most probably the sensor at fault

Oh and the coolant overboiling problem might be down to a faulty cap, try a new one from GSF

[Meatpie]

cap is ok, so is the valve/sensor on top of the expansion tank(brand new from GSF).

The hot water seems to come out of the top valve on the expansion tank way before the engine gets to 3/4 temp.
Can you suggest a way that i can test the thermoswitch on the rad? If i can establish what the problem is, the i will just go and buy the parts straight away.

Once again, cheers for all your help.

[rubjonny]

could still be the cap or the sensor, or even the tank!

I had a brand new febi tank and it leaked from around the level sensor (thats what the 2 pin sensor is on top of the tank) I tried both a brand new and 2nd hand vag level sensor, still the same.

So I put an old gen vag one back on, problem solved! However the new cap I bought leaked, so I swapped an old one on, problem solved again! Crappy pattern parts

only way to test the sensor is either get the engine to 3/4, or take it out and sit in a cup of boiling water then test it with a multimeter.  2nd option means you loose all the coolant out the rad, so if you go that far may as well just buy a new one.

The switch wont be causing the coolant to come out of the tank if its doing it before 3/4 though, its a problem elsewhere!

[Meatpie]

thanks for that, but i fear it is the head gaskett gone. oil now in the water reservoir. looks like its time to get saving.

incidentally, how much would you think this would cost me realistically?

got told it would be £1000 by one place, what you reckon?

To make it worse still, my temporary vehicle, xr3i cabrio, has been stolen either last night or this morning.

I couldnt have worse luck if i tried.

[rubjonny]

since its a late cabby it probably has the oil/water cooler, if so thats more likely why there is oil in your water
if you look at your oil filter, just above that is a alloy thing with 2 coolant hoses going itno the driver side of it. if you have this, pull the pipes off and join them together somehow.

Now drain the coolant system entirely, and flush it with a hosepipe.  Next fill with plain water and a cupfull of bio washing powder. run the engine till the thermostat opens, follow the same procedure as bleeding the system. Let it cool then drain and flush again. Repeat till the oil is gone! Then fill it back up with water and antifreeze, run car for a week and see if the oil comes back