digi 8v few questions

[serafumi]

Hi all , i have been around on this site for some time, however i dont post that often , right here goes, im a motorcycle mechanic by trade and have been for 14 years, however my car knowledge is quite limited . so im after a few pointers if you dont mind?
ever since i have owned the golf 1 1/2 years it seems to have a slight wobble at around 75 , i have tried balancing , changed wheels , also steering feels vague!
so my plan was to change wishbone bushes(i brought poly ones) , both wheel bearings, both ball joints, both outer cv joints( are pattern joints ok?) and both tre s cause one of the boots is split!
i was looking at the tre (pas model) and it doesnt look like theres a locking nut ? is this normal?
also out of that work , is it stuff i could do at home?
oh yeah one other thing , its quite lazy to turn over in the morning , i have cleaned the earths, changed the batt and its charging great, could this be the starter bush?
cheers chaps
tony

[serafumi]

 

[Ben Lessani]

There should always be a 2nd nut on the TRE. You can remove the TRE and pop a nut on - but don't expect the tracking to be accurate afterwards (even if you mark it up). Its a 10 minute job to remove and change. The technique to remove it from the wheel bearing housing is to hit the bearing housing arm itself (not the TRE thread) and it will pop free (or use a ball joint splitter).

If the wheels are balanced and you have wobble/vague steering - get the tracking checked out, and 4 wheel alignment at that (the rears can't be aligned, but its a more accurate alignment) www.alignmycar.co.uk

When the bell housing bush is worn - you usually notice the starter not doing much, loud buzzing/groaning - not so much turning. It takes about 20-30 minutes to change - so worthwhile and cheaper than a new starter.

Powerflex bushes are reccomended for the front (rears can make the car twitchy apparently). Steer clear of pattern parts on the rest - they're crap and won't last.

I wouldn't really just change stuff for the sake of it - its easy to diagnose what is causing the issue when it comes to bearing play/TRE play/ball joint play and CV play.

[serafumi]

cheers for advise , does any one know the thread size of the track control arm so i can get 2 nuts!
cheers tony

[mattneck(Beavis)]

Youll find one of the arms was non adjustable from factory - youll need a new arm as well.. the aftermarket ones come as adjustables 

[serafumi]

i have already looked and there both adjustable , i think all pas racks are adjustable?

[mattneck(Beavis)]

Ah-ill take that back then 

[Ben Lessani]

Youll find one of the arms was non adjustable from factory - youll need a new arm as well.. the aftermarket ones come as adjustables 

Not quite right. Some early manual racks had 1 side adjusters - and it makes no real odds because you can still adjust it, its just a bit more involved (adjust > center wheel > adjust).

No idea of the thread size buddy, get a vernier caliper round it

[rubjonny]

all manual racks from the factory had a non adjustible passenger side track rod, but you cant buy these anymore so not unusual to find manual racks with both sides adjustible. all pas racks from the factory had adjustible ends on both sides.

regardless of which you have, the passenger side track rod must be set to a specific length and left alone, any adjustment is made at the driver side only

[golfnut8v]

all manual racks from the factory had a non adjustible passenger side track rod, but you cant buy these anymore so not unusual to find manual racks with both sides adjustible. all pas racks from the factory had adjustible ends on both sides.

regardless of which you have, the passenger side track rod must be set to a specific length and left alone, any adjustment is made at the driver side only

this is interesting...........would you know that length johhny ? ( near side )