Wheel bearing? Simples...

[Ben Lessani]

Its an easy job, but you need a press.

You can get the housing off in about 20 minutes, then remove the circlip at the back, push the hub out, remove the other circlip, push the bearing out. Then if you are unlucky (like me) tap the old race off the hub with a big hammer and chisel (without touching the hub!).

[Sam]

it seems to be more so when i turn left but it feels and sounds like its comming from the right... could this be true or am i just sh!t

[Ben Lessani]

Typical wheel bearing, turn left, load up the right - whine.

Knocking at the front could be a few things. Make sure the suspension strut bolts are tight, all 4 ball joint bolts, wheel nuts and hub nut.

Track rod ends
When you hear a knock when wiggling the steering wheel when stationary. If the car is jacked up, its not as obvious to find.

Wheel bearing
Turn a corner at speed (40 mph), if you are turning left and you hear a noise - its the right wheel bearing, turning right and its your left wheel bearing.

Jack the car up, grab it left and right and wiggle it and check for play. If there's play and a noise as above, odds are its a wheel bearing.


Ball Joint
Grab the wheel top and bottom and wiggle, have a friend with a torch look at the ball joint when wiggling and the play is pretty obvious.

CV Joint
Knocking/grinding at low speeds

Top Mounts
No idea, I guess I'd find out by process of elimination from the above?

[jezza16v]

Typical wheel bearing, turn left, load up the right - whine.

Not in all cases, the bearing is a double so depending whether it is the inner or outer race that is damaged you can get the opposite effect, the noise it is often more dependant on the direction of the lateral load on the bearing rather than the vertical load.

This does sound like a classic CV joint problem, I've never heard a bearing click or clunk, they usually drone and the pitch of the drone gets higher as road speed increases. Worth just checking that the nut on the end of the shaft is tight, if loose it can let the shaft splines wobble in the hub.

[Ben Lessani]

This does sound like a classic CV joint problem, I've never heard a bearing click or clunk, they usually drone and the pitch of the drone gets higher as road speed increases. Worth just checking that the nut on the end of the shaft is tight, if loose it can let the shaft splines wobble in the hub.

Lol, ignore me, I didn't even read the first page of the post, I just saw "change wheel bearing" at the top and someone moan about noise.

Wheel bearings don't usually clunk

[Sam]

what yall recon to this?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-CV-JOINT-VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK2-1-8-2-0-1984-1993_W0QQitemZ260477421267QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca5aa06d3

[Ben Lessani]

I would imagine a 2nd hand genuine shaft + cv would last longer.

[Sam]

I would imagine a 2nd hand genuine shaft + cv would last longer.

Ok cool and there the same throughout the range arent they? There is a scrappy near me with only one mk2... driver mebs? and it still had both cvs in..

[Sam]

Got a quote for a full drive shaft for £45 from vwaudibreakers.co.uk, is this price any good and more importantly are they any good?

[molegti]

http://shop.vws.me.uk/vw-golf-mk2-driveshaft-469-p.asp