Dizzy prob solved, diff prob found, wanna check my solution

[mark-mk3gti]

So u recokon it'll be ok then? Cos I didn't loosen cam belt to remove?  Cheers

[Mikester]

You need to remove what ever you have fitted, put it to tdc1 as explained in the pics on the first page, fit the dizzy, and fit the arm so it is in line with where the ht lead is that goes to clyinder no1 as by lining up the pulley with the notch you are putting the first clyinder to top dead center, and that is how its timed up.

If you havnt loosened the belts, it should be an easy fix and no damage.

If you still dont understand then i would get a haynes and read it from there. Best bet.

[mark-mk3gti]

hi there all,

got it sorted just now, all back to how it was, but the interesting thing i found is that when i lined up top pulley to its mark,  the lower crank pulley was about 10-12mm to the right of the mark!!  I paid to have it checked last monday, i saw him do it with a light gun, and while i waited back on the sofa the boss told him to pop the cover off and check,  bit annoyed really, cos spent 65-70 quid on a dizzy haynes and few other bits, to find out if its the hall sensor,  so now its booked in again on monday to have them lined up.

only thing is, im thinking,  if ive lined dizzy up with the top pulley, and the crank pulley is out, am i right in thinking they just need to loosen the belt and move it back round to its mark? or do they have to re time the whole thing? its an agg engine, btw just so i know what to tell them to do..

hopefully my 5k rpm limit will be gone soon!! YAY!

[gtigolfthree]

Certainly the cam timing being out by a tooth will cause the ecu to go to safe mode, but how did it happen if it has not been touched? I would replace the cam belt and tensioner to be on the safe side and get the cam and ignition timing set up by someone who knows what he is doing if your not 100% sure.

[mark-mk3gti]

update,,   now chuffed as a box of frogs,  just ran vagcom on car cos lappy wa flat before, and to my amazement the figures changed, so i did what leegt said he did and turned dizzy anti clockwise 2mm and it got nearer to spec, so i turned it again, closer still, final time turning and now within spec!! so no fault codes now, 5k limit should be gone, gonna go round block in a min, 

only thing now worrying me is the crank puley was further round slightly than the line,  when top pulley was at tdc mark? so do i still get it corrected or leave it now its running correct?

im guessing it still needs sorting out, but whats the verdict?

[mark-mk3gti]

so what u reckon i should do, cos its not in safe mode now,

so it does look like the hall sensor was knackered, take back prev slagging of mechanic,

the prev owner had cambelt done 7k ago, and to me the belt looks ok, so dont know if it needs changing for a while, not sure what to do now cos it seems to be running well, gonna go down road now, so will post back in a min.

cheers

[gtigolfthree]

To tell you the truth I find cranckshaft tdc marks unreliable as they are sometimes a few degrees before tdc for ignition timing purposes. I prefer to stick a  screwdriver or whatever in the plug hole then you know its tdc. Having said that the camshaft tdc mark is 100% reliable, just make sure as I said that you feel the piston rocking at tdc as you turn the engine back and forth.
When I did the cambelt on my 8v the crank pulley marks didnt make any sense to me so I used the one on the fly wheel but when I tried it it was in safe mode So I found tdc with the srewdriver and checked the cam pulley mark. 1 tooth out, so set it to the mark and set dizzy to its mark and perfect.

[mark-mk3gti]

Hi mate, thanks for that, sounds bit like mine, I've got dizzy and cam (this is the flywheel isn't it) aligned correctly now, and at that the crank mark is bout 10mm to the right of it's mark,
just being to shops and not in safe mode runs and revs fine, I didn't actuallycheck with a screwdriver but as I was turning it to the mark it did feel like it was there cos as I got near it went easy to turn and moved past, had to turn it back a bit to get back, Checked on vag com before shops and nofaults, readings were all in spec, so from what u say maybe I should leave well alone now as it's running right,  the guy who had it b4 was a mot tester At Honda and worked on it himself, so guessing he got cambelt right but the hAll sensor had packed up sometime after, he never mentioned it but I didn't notice cos don't drive it like I pinched it, lol, only found the limited cos pulled out in front of someone 2week ago,

[leegt5]

Mate if its reving over 5k and on Vagcom the hall sensor measuring block readings are all within spec and your not getting faults appear then I'd be happy that everything is as it should be...

[mark-mk3gti]

cheers, i was kinda hoping someone would say that, cos its what i was thinking,  cheers for ur post earlier last week also, about tuning dizzy counter clockwise slightly, cos i did it earlier and got readings down to spec   bye bye error codes, for now anyway!