Car won't start...ECU?

[axewielder]

i think the immo in clocks is mk4s onward not possitive though, yeah the differences are cos the ones i put up are uk+ vortex will be usa, ne way mine are offa etka so should be good

[Khare]

i think the immo in clocks is mk4s onward not possitive though, yeah the differences are cos the ones i put up are uk+ vortex will be usa, ne way mine are offa etka so should be good

immob in clocks is mk3 for sure, I know cos I'm currently stuck with mine immobilized! Hopefully tomorrow between Adam and myself we shall decode it 

[axewielder]

kk fair hope you get it sorted

[Khare]

kk fair hope you get it sorted

cheers dude 

[karl29]

i had asimilar problem got the rac out and he checked the immobiliser and a small plug had worked itself loose somewhere under the clocks he pulled it fully off then put it back on and it started and been fine since its located somewhere near the steering coloumn about half way down it may be worth a try

[adamrob69]

if the imobiliser was in the clocks, when people change there clocks (which happens alot) surely they would need programming to your key, which isnt the case as they are plug and play!? Also, the clocks dont show up on vag com which would be strange.

I always thought imobiliser was in ECU, hence the reasoning behind having to have it coded to your keys.

[skcollob_ho]

My limited research backs that up. The imobiliser is in the ECU, the transponder box is in the dash, either behind the clocks, or behind the glove box depending on the year, and then the wire running to the ring around the ignition barrel. The key has a chip as we all know.

I'm about to buy an ECU with the BE revision, which the seller is telling me came out of a '95 valver that didn't have the transponder box behind the dash, and doesn't have the key.

Will I be wasting my time?

[skcollob_ho]

Update.

The new ECU arrived today, and was fitted [easy job].

It took a while to get it started, when initially it showed the same symptoms as before, where it would starts for a second then cut out. I floored the accelerator and lo and behold, it started. I revved it up then let it idle and was fine. I even took it for a short spin around the block.

I pulled back into work, and as I open the door, it dies again and won't start!

I thought perhaps that the battery didn't have enough power to start, so I ran some jump leads from a mates car. After a while, it started and idled fine, then as I open the door to move it to the other side of the carpark, it dies and won't start again.

My lunch break is finished, so I can't stay out there all afternoon getting it going.

Does anyone have an idea of what it could be please?

[laurielaeks]

hey see when u start the car does it fire up then after a second die? try redlining it and see if its got the same problem as my car, once you get ti to hit the limiter it will work fine, i sometimes have to flip the key on and of and on again to get the revs right up as sometimes it cuts out before i can get right up

[skcollob_ho]

I read your thread shortly after posting my update. Mine doesn't actually start at all, just turns over. But when it DID start, it had to pretty much floor it for it to start up.