16v keeps cutting out

[Shorty]

Hi guys, right been at this all week and not getting anywhere with it. Here's what i've done so far:
inlet manifold and throttle valve cleaned, now spotless including all breathers
crank sensor swapped over
coil changed
new distributor and cap/rotor arm
all wiring checked
all relays replaced
When it cuts out still getting a spark and fuel
One thing i've noticed is starting from cold it will run for exactly 18 MINUTES and the oil temp reaches 90 degs every time before it cuts out
I've tried this a few times now and it's always 18mins/90degs
Any further pointers ?
 

[rubjonny]

disconnect the lambda probe plug and try again

[Shorty]

disconnect the lambda probe plug and try again

Done that yesterday, no different.

[mk2_abf]

try the the water temp sensor

[danny_p]

ummm allways 90 degrees, not met one doing that yet    with an oem ecu. 

temp sensor is obvious   to suspect,    not by anychance got a thermoswitch misplaces in the workings 

[Shorty]

Brand new temp sensor fitted and ecu reset on saturday and it still doing it 
Anyone got ANY ideas ?

[rubjonny]

do you hear the fuel pump run on for a few seconds after it cuts out?

[Shorty]

It definately aint lack of fuel, tons of the stuff spewing out from the delivery side of injector rail.

[Shorty]

Hi Guys,
Stripped out everything on timing side and removed water pump and thermostat, all seems well with those parts and timing was spot on. Just finished rebuilding it but going to change the other temp sender (the one that screws into cyl.head). Any one know what this sender actually does? Also noticed that when it does get hot that it seems to be REALLY hot and although the fans cut in they are only on slow speed, just wondering if this would maybe point to the above temp sender switch?

[rubjonny]

the 2 pin one is for the ecu, the single pin one is for the dash. fans are controlled by the temp sensor in the radiator, and the control unit up under the header tank. how hot is REALLY hot