Author Topic: K-Jet Timing Marks  (Read 3951 times)

Offline bmouthboyo

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K-Jet Timing Marks
« on: 02 June 2009, 20:44 »
Hi again :(

The snapped manifold bolt is just not moving so its a head out job unfortunately.

I am following the Haynes manual and have done this before on a BMW a good while back but wanted to ask a few questions before i remove the timing belt from the cam sprocket.

The Haynes manual doesn't mention setting the engine to TDC for head removal but i assume its good practice to ensure it doesn't rotate once the belt is removed. I will mark everything up with tipex anyway so that no belt teeth will be out when i refit the cam belt to the cam sprocket.

First of i cannot find out in the manual how to get the engine to TDC exactly? I have found the timing arrow on the lower belt cover but which of the marks on the crank pulley is it ment to line up with?



I lined it up with the first of the marks and I have found the timing mark on the camshaft but it doesn't correspond with anything??



With the crank in the position as in the pic (first mark on the arrow) the valve and camshaft look like this:

Cylinder 1


Cylinder 2


So from the valve position it looks like the second piston is at TDC as both valves are fully up, but I do not know much about this kind of thing.

Any advice would be a great help, I have removed and labeled all the wires etc and injectors, and really need to get this head out but dont want to proceed until I am sure I wont mess the timing up.

Thanks so much for any help.


Offline mattkh

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #1 on: 02 June 2009, 21:21 »
Hi
Use the marks on the flywheel and the good old method of long handle screw driver in piston 1 thru the plug hole.

Offline Steve_B

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #2 on: 02 June 2009, 22:12 »
Look at the tuning guide in the maintenance section for reference. On the camshaft pulley, look for a notch on the inside, it should match up with the top of the front of the head at TDC  :smiley:

Offline bmouthboyo

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #3 on: 02 June 2009, 22:32 »
Sorry steve I looked under maintenance but can only find full timing tuning for digifant.

Do you have a link?

Offline rubjonny

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #4 on: 03 June 2009, 08:43 »
the static marks are the same as in the guide, just ignore the co and ign timing bits, you set both of these at idle on a k-jet :)
Hello my name is John and I'm a dub addict.

Offline neils

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #5 on: 03 June 2009, 21:49 »
the pully in the first pic i think you have to take off if it's the alternator belt pully, the timing mark's behind that pully (I THINK,) (someone will correct me if i'm wrong). line it up with the arrow and there should be a inspection hole in the top of the gear box and like mattkh said, you should see the marks on the fly wheel
Hi
Use the marks on the flywheel and the good old method of long handle screw driver in piston 1 thru the plug hole.

also the screwdriver in spark plug hole 1 is a good way to make sure it's at tdc

Offline whiter_than_white

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #6 on: 03 June 2009, 21:56 »
if your removing the head then just set it when the head is off, you will see when no1 is at tdc.
i also find that when i have done engine work in the past i have moved the crank anyway to clean the tops of the pistons up and also to check cylinder bores for damage/scoring

Offline bmouthboyo

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #7 on: 04 June 2009, 09:06 »
But if i move anything with the head off all the timing will be out wont it?

If i mark it all up and put it back in the same position I shouldnt have to mess about with timing etc will i?

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #8 on: 04 June 2009, 09:18 »
just get it to tdc turning the crank bolt untill you see the tdc flywheel mark, mark the belt up with tippex and remove. the mark on the cover isnt the most accurate

Offline bmouthboyo

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Re: K-Jet Timing Marks
« Reply #9 on: 04 June 2009, 10:11 »
Ok sweet, can i ask whats the best way to stop the immediate shaft turning when the belt looses tension after slipping it off the cam crank?

Is there a wasy way to sexure it all so i know the teeth wont move on the lower pullies?