16valve ignition advance

[rubjonny]

hmm very odd. are the cams in the engine original KR ones?

[dude]

ye they are i just put a knew cambelt on it before i put it in.

[rubjonny]

hmm, inter-cam timing?
oh just had a thought, whip the cam sprocket off and make sure the keyway hasnt sheared, bit of a long shot though.  Fact that same happens on a setup thats fine on another car has me proper stumped 

Might be an idea to get the multimeter out and check all the wiring to the ign controller plug

[danny_p]

it is a confuseing one,  it choudl be the ignition control unit throwing a hissy fit because somethign isn't connnected  but i've set 16v's up on carbs useing it and had them running fine with bugger all connected.

dose sound like multimeter time

[dude]

thank you all.
ok this is what im doing!
strobe light hooked up pointing at fly wheel set it on 0 turn dizzy until diamond mark is in line tighten dizzy up.
now point light at crank pulley move dial on strobe to 6 degrees slots line up back to fly wheel revs up to 3000 move dial on strobe to 32 degrees diamond mark lines up. but if you go back to crank pulley its on 40 degrees what do you think of all that. cheers

[dude]

so do you take the 6 degrees away from the 32 which gives me 26

[danny_p]

no need to add or subtract anything  it's total advance is the number that matters.

digging through some PDF's  it's 6  deg with vaccume hose connected at idel hose connected, with that set,       run the engine at 4600 rpm   you should see  24 deg of advance from TDC   or  18 degrees if subtracting the basic advance.    with vaccume hose off you should see the ignition retarded  20 degrees  compared to when hose connected at 4600.   so 4 deg of advance from TDC


your figures now make sense if the basic timeing set with the vac hose off  the basic setting will be 20 degrees further advanced than it shoudl be.      so when the vac hose is reconnected an extra 20 degrees of adance appear    44 - 48 deg of advance now makes sense as take that 20 off it's be 24-28 whitch is right       

[dude]

Think ive fixed it 
What id done wrong, i think, was the double plug thats by the ecu thats part of the ecu 16valve loom, that has a black & yellow which is linked to the throttle valve switch and the red & yellow which is linked to the fuel pump i had going to a live & earth because I thought it was powering the ecu, thus sending the ecu into a dizzy fit, so i unpluged those two wires blanked vacum advance pipe set tickover to 10 degrees now shes fully advanced to 28 degrees at 4000. But I did have to take the battery lead off for a couple of minutes for the ecu to settle down.
So now the black & yellow red & yellow are unplugged and the ecu is getting its power from the plus on the coil.
Advance pipe blanked.
10 degree tickover 28 degree fully advanced.
Thanks RJ & Danny P for your help.

[rubjonny]

ahhhh that could explain it. the black yellow to ECU is NOT power, thats only supposed to be live when the throttle is shut