fast idling pierburg 2e2 .. waxstat ?

[rubjonny]

a webber carb will solve these problems, but at a cost. they arn't getting any cheaper!
Personally I would persevere with the 2e2 becasue when it works it will run like a dream, but the choice is yours.
Have you looked at the 3/4 point unit on the driver side yet?

[al_b]

Hi Jonny, yep I think a webber might be too pricey for me right now... what I was told by the mechanic in the garage was that the manual choke conversion kit is cheaper & would solve the problem also - have you heard of these kits ?

Have checked the 3/4 point and pushrod has a gap of about 5mm even when engine has fully warmed up.. (?)
also noticed that if I give it a lot of revs when stationary, then idle will drop to normal (around 950), but as soon as I move off then it leaps back to 2,500...  thought It'd fixed itself miraculously for a mere second when that first happened.. 

[rubjonny]

I have heard of them but I've not seen them for a long time, plus it doesn't actually sound like its going to solve your problem anyway?
3/4 point unit seems to be working ok, it sounds like the waxstat isnt bringing the idle down enough for the 3/4 point unit to take over control. I'm thinking its gone inside so doesn't have the strength to bring the idle down properly.  If you take it off the carb you should see the pin it pushes against poking out, when the problem occurs try pusing this in manually, if the idle goes down then its almost certainly a waxstat failure.  If the pin isn't there at all then you need one, iirc a new waxstat might actually come with one?

[al_b]

ok, I'm beginning to even bore myself now so apologies for that mr RJ and for being a trifle thick when it comes to this - I'm an (advance) retard he he .. sigh... sorry.. -
why would a manual choke conversion not solve the problem ? the garage told me it would. the scoundrels. They said that either that or a weber would both fix the problem (?)

[rubjonny]

The 2e2 manual choke conversion just replaces the autochoke housing, trouble with that is I'm pretty sure the high idle isnt anything to do with the autochoke, rather its the waxstat or a missaligned linkage inside the carb

webber would definitly solve it as you would be throwing the whole 2e2 in ze bin! As I say though, last time I saw one o those 2e2 choke conversion kits was about 3 years ago on ebay, and that was the only one I'd ever seen before

[al_b]

unless they mean that the waxstat would be bypassed (?) ..they said it would solve problem of o-ring blockages as would bypass that part of coolant system controlling the choke..(?) ..  fek it.. I'm losing the will to live over this now.. ! I'd love to get a webber on there but too pricey.. I'll have one more go at the waxstat then I think I'll look into the manual choke kit route.. wish me luck ! cheers 

[rubjonny]

yeah it will bypass the autochoke part, but i dont think it will bypass the waxstat as thats a seperate part.  I might be wrong on that one, could be they had a thing that you bolt on where the waxstat should go as part of the kit?  Like I say its been 2 year since I saw one so memory is a bit fuzzy!

[retroworks]

Hi guys!

sorry that i take this topic back up from under the dust!

i have the similar problem with my golf 1 cabrio since a couple of weeks (1.8 carbu engine EX if i'm right)

can you guys give me more info about the waxstat ? & the other thing just above the 3/4 pullbox ?

because i think one of these is broke if i start my car works perfect! when i drive for 5min my car idle goes around 2500-3000 :/ when i stop en push the 3/4box asmuch as i can togheter i hear a loud click and few seconds later the car rev perfect around 900rpm and i have no problems anymore..

before i found this topic i tought maybe the thermostat sensor for the autochoke was broke and give's a fault signal to my carb that triggers my 3/4 box ? but no i think it is the waxstat thingy or the thing above the 3/4 box ? because when i bought the car these cables where broke and i made them with solding...

i hope you guys can help me!!

sorry for my bad english im from belgium 
you can also mail me lars.jeurgen@gmail.com

[Santiago]

Check that the (connector for the) thermotime valve (TTV, round black thing above 3/4 point unit) is getting a 12V supply when the ignition is switched on. 
If it isn't getting 12V, check the wires to it, including any repairs you've previously made.  Also check all the fuses in the fusebox. 

If that all seems OK, maybe it is the waxstat, here's a check you can do if you take it off the carb:

[Cory]

i have a webber carb with a manual choke, (link at the bottom of the reply) thats just come off of my 1.6 EZ engine. ive never had an issue with it what so ever. i also have the mounting plate, all the bolts and choke cable. you can have the lot for £100 as i have no use for it anymore


http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11