Is it possible??

[Mixologist]

Is it possible to wire the headlights/sidelights in so that they are ingnition live??

im getting pissed off leaving them on by mistake

[Fielder5757]

yeah, cept when you wanna get outta the car but leave your lights on so no one hits your car while its parked on a buisy street your gonna be f**ked, and more to the point they will also always be on during the day just like a volvo

[JMallows]

Hmm, i wonder where you got the idea for this thread from!!?!  

If you want i can tell you how to fit a buzzer. If not then, having sidelights on all the time mightn't be too bad, i always have mine on anyway!

[Fielder5757]

how do you fit a buzzer? that could be usefull  

[Mixologist]

Hmmmmmmmmm, i wonder?!?!?!?!  One of us had to ask!

[Dizzie]

wire a buzzer into a wire that becomes live when you turn the sidelights on and earth it on the same point as the one that joins when you open the door. then when you open the door with the lights on the buzzer will sound. I would look on mine and tell you which wire it is, but can't until friday.

[JMallows]

You need:

A 12V Buzzer,
About a metre of wire
EITHER Solder/Electric tape.

Take off the bit under the steering wheel with the documents holder in it. Attach the buzzer to the inside of this. Take off the door plunger on the drivers side. Follow the wires into the car from the switch. Take a wire from the black side of the buzzer, through the hole, and either solder it to the door switch, or tape it. Take a wire from the red side of the buzzer to the top right connector of the heated rear window switch. Jump in car, shut door. Switch on lights, open door. Buzzer now sounds. Easy as pie.

If you want to be certain which wire to use for the heate rear window, take off the switch, put a multimaeter across the top two connectors, when you switch the lights on, you should have 12V. If you have a non electrolytic buzzer, it doesn't matter which you put it in, if you do it must be posititve as the door switch is earthed, and thus needs 12V on the other terminal to create the potential difference.

Ask any questions if you feel thats not explained properly!!!

[JMallows]

Either i explained it all wrong, and made it sound so complicated that i put you off, or your doing it sometime, then gonna let me know? Or did you decide against it in the end??!

[JMallows]

Ok, i obviously did write that a bit confusingly then!

Right lets start by saying: you want to have a buzzer when a) the lights are on and b) when the doors open. The buzzer has two terminals, therefore a terminal for a) and a terminal for b)  The terminals have to have a potential difference across them to work. This is not a problem as the door pin is earthed. So terminal b) simply attaches to the existing wire headding to the door switch, either byu cutting the wire and joining the new one, or attching it to the same spade of the switch itself. Thats the easy part.

For terminal a) you need a 12V supply to supply the PD across the buzzer. Seeing as you need it to be also to the lights, it is perhaps obvious it needs to go to a positive terminal of a bulb, but a bulb that only lights when the lights are on. There are quite a few of these. Two in the boot, directly from the tail lights (not practical in this instance!!) In the dash switches, heated window, fogs, hazards etc.. the heater display, the speedo lights etc.... Its up to you which you use, i used th heated rear window as it easy. So, take out the switch. There are four terminals. Hoping its clear that two are for the resistor in the glass, and two are for the lights in the switch? Its easy to determine which is which, Switch on the headlights, and switch the switch off. Put a multimeter across the top terminals, there will be like 12.7V or thereabouts. If its minus, swap the leads around. When the display is positive the red lead from the multimeter is the positive one, remember which terminal it is. Now attach a bit of wire to the terminal, and stick the switch back in. From underneath, find this wire and attach it to the terminal a) on the buzzer.

[JMallows]

Ok, i hope thats the general gist of the actual electronics there. I trtied to go into detail, so you understood whats happening, and if happens not to work, you can remedy it yourself

The econd part is basically mounting the buzzer, and locating the terminals and where to run the wire.

Its worth noting that one doesn't have to cut any wires anywhere, or even solder them. It does work if you tape it etc... but may not last. I recommend taping it first before soldering.

Right, i hope thats it explained it a bit better! Let me know if not!