Quote from: Carbon-Chiptuning on 12 July 2011, 09:38Quote from: RTechUK on 12 July 2011, 09:06Quote from: Carbon-Chiptuning on 12 July 2011, 08:50Quote from: Grand Master Patch on 11 July 2011, 22:18N75J upgrade?What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?Hi there,I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!Kind Regards,NickAll the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75 playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm.. Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.“so if you have a N75 playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on lineâ€In English??? Only messing mate, I understand what you are trying to say.......Adjustment often doesn’t work if the OEM valve is tired and as posted earlier WE prefer the ‘J’ as a replacement – just personal preference nothing more.“Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gaugeâ€WTF were u doing to that poor car! Just shy of 2Bar and I’d have been cringing too.We’ve never had anything like that boost with the N75J.Its mapped for 23psi on the stock valve 1399hpa @ 95% duty until 3200rpm then cuts to 64%dc the J cannot react quick enough causing a overshoot.On a customers car it would not see 29psi only mine
Quote from: RTechUK on 12 July 2011, 09:06Quote from: Carbon-Chiptuning on 12 July 2011, 08:50Quote from: Grand Master Patch on 11 July 2011, 22:18N75J upgrade?What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?Hi there,I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!Kind Regards,NickAll the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75 playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm.. Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.“so if you have a N75 playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on lineâ€In English??? Only messing mate, I understand what you are trying to say.......Adjustment often doesn’t work if the OEM valve is tired and as posted earlier WE prefer the ‘J’ as a replacement – just personal preference nothing more.“Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gaugeâ€WTF were u doing to that poor car! Just shy of 2Bar and I’d have been cringing too.We’ve never had anything like that boost with the N75J.
Quote from: Carbon-Chiptuning on 12 July 2011, 08:50Quote from: Grand Master Patch on 11 July 2011, 22:18N75J upgrade?What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?Hi there,I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!Kind Regards,NickAll the N75 valves can have there oscillation characteristics dialed in (same has hair clippers), so if you have a N75 playing up and causing the boot to ride off the boost pids then a quick tweak of the little screw could bring it back on line.I was messing with a N75J yesterday and gained 38lbft back to back with the F valve on my K04-001/k03s coldside but lost 27bhp between 4600rpm-7400rpm.. Felt really strong with 346lbft at 29psi but made me cringe a little watching the boost spike of the gauge.
Quote from: Grand Master Patch on 11 July 2011, 22:18N75J upgrade?What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?Hi there,I wouldn't change your 'C' version for a 'J' unless you are having issues with boost surging...........We only recommend replacement if you have troubles with your OEM N75 and OUR personal preference is the 'J' valve as this has been found to be the most robust with least reported failures of all the N75's and the most controlled operation under high boost conditions.On the dyno it shows little if any gains over the other variants, just smoothes everything out particularly if your OEM valve is a bit tired.If you google 'N75J' you will find a whole load of info from across the globe on this subject Summary: If you're OEM N75 is working well with your current map do nothing!Kind Regards,Nick
N75J upgrade?What benefits would i see if i fit one of these,over my C version?
