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Golf mk8 / Re: What have you done to your mk8 today?
« Last post by Beebopper on 24 July 2026, 23:08 »Fitted the ‘Clubsport’ side decal extensions, extending the half effort from VW 
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Golf mk4 / Re: Is my fule pump dead??
« Last post by Snoopy on 24 July 2026, 21:42 »A starting to fail slow to energise engine ECU power supply relay can cause similar intermittent issues.
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Golf mk8 / Re: GTI Edition 50 order thread
« Last post by davo245 on 24 July 2026, 21:09 »I’ve been toying with changing but bit worrying as take up doesn’t seem to be as VW expected in my opinion, few cars about now but no real deals as of yet phoned a few dealers to gauge market but offering ridiculously low ball p/x offers on my 8.5 clubby against edition 50s and mine is less than 10 months old with performance pack, dcc and loads more . Spoke to friend in trade and he said values of used are low at moment but main stealers not reflecting it to do deals on new stuff which is because they are marked up to high , in his opinion, so said why change as you have great spec car . Probably right but still fancy a 50 but not a these prices lol
My thoughts too, I would love a Tornado red 50 with some nice options but can see them becoming a bit cheaper soon as car market is extremely slow just now.
My local VW is absolutely stacked out with stock thats not moving and pre reg stuff.
I would keep the clubsport tbh.
I am look at 6k plus more for a 50 instead of a similar spec clubsportdue to available discounts i just don't think ithe 50 is 6k plus more car tbh.
Also the current colour choices are pretty poor imo on clubsports why they stopped doing silver, red and blue is unbelievable the original gti colours should always be available on a GTI imo.
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Golf mk8 / Re: GTI Edition 50 order thread
« Last post by busa2000 on 24 July 2026, 19:27 »I’ve been toying with changing but bit worrying as take up doesn’t seem to be as VW expected in my opinion, few cars about now but no real deals as of yet phoned a few dealers to gauge market but offering ridiculously low ball p/x offers on my 8.5 clubby against edition 50s and mine is less than 10 months old with performance pack, dcc and loads more . Spoke to friend in trade and he said values of used are low at moment but main stealers not reflecting it to do deals on new stuff which is because they are marked up to high , in his opinion, so said why change as you have great spec car . Probably right but still fancy a 50 but not a these prices lol
65
Golf mk4 / rear light
« Last post by gyazg7 on 24 July 2026, 19:00 »Have had an intermittent bulb out on the rear, every time I go to replace it comes back on. Problem is I can't actually get the bulb out it's getting caught on some plastic in the cluster. Is this normal or has someone put the wrong bulb in?
cheers
cheers
66
Golf mk8 / Re: Mk 8 GTI rear screen wash jet.
« Last post by davo245 on 24 July 2026, 16:52 »Agree, it is a stupid design and I can’t believe given how many eyes will have seen this in the design phase it wasn’t amended. Bizarre!
Looks like the apprentice designed it cant believe they signed it off !! Wouldn't it be a great idea if you could just adjust the angle like you could on cars years ago!!
67
Golf mk4 / Is my fule pump dead??
« Last post by gyazg7 on 24 July 2026, 15:32 »Hi all, I am hoping that someone can shed some light for me.
My car when I open the drivers door only 2/10 will the fuel pump prime the fuel lines, the other times I have to crank the engine for a few tick overs more before it will start. Once started is will struggle for a second or two then the car is fine. It is also worth noting that the car runs and drives perfectly when started. The other thing I have noticed is if I leave the door open for a few mins I will then hear the fuel pump kick into life and prime the lines.
I have also noticed that only 3/10 times the choak will come on, other times it will sit straight at 600-700rpm.
Natrually I always let the car warm up so this isn't a massive issue for me.
Anyway I have done alot of research, and I have changd the following:
* Checked the fuel pump fuse and changed it.
* I have changed the fuel pump relay.
* I have even put in a brand new door module, I have also noticed that one of the previous owners has also changed the door module for a brand new one less than a year ago. (wish I knew this before changing it)
* I have even changed the ECT.
* The car has had a full major service and even had the plugs changed.
But after changing my door module yesterday, I went out this morning, opened the driver door and no buzzing sound from the fuel pump
I know the module is working fine, as the interior light comes on when door it open, the car chimes if I put the lights on without the key & the puddle light comes on and the door locks perfectly fine as it did before I changed the door module.
I am starting to think now that it can only be the fuel pump itself? I also noticed quiet recently that if I have no music on, I can hear a slight which can only be discribed as a electronic wuring noise coming from the rear of the car, near where the fuel pump is, only apprant when the car is running.
It is also worth noting that I have noticed that if the car has half a tank of fuel or more, although I still don't hear the fuel pump priming the lines I don't have an issue with the car starting at all, I.e. I don't have to crank the car more than needed.
Also this only happens if the car has been sat for more than a few hours, i.e. the engine is cold.
This is lead me to think that the only thing that could be causing my issue is my fuel pump? Which confuses me as the car runs perfectly fine so my thought process on this lead me to think that if I had a faulty fuel pump, surely I would have running issues?
My car when I open the drivers door only 2/10 will the fuel pump prime the fuel lines, the other times I have to crank the engine for a few tick overs more before it will start. Once started is will struggle for a second or two then the car is fine. It is also worth noting that the car runs and drives perfectly when started. The other thing I have noticed is if I leave the door open for a few mins I will then hear the fuel pump kick into life and prime the lines.
I have also noticed that only 3/10 times the choak will come on, other times it will sit straight at 600-700rpm.
Natrually I always let the car warm up so this isn't a massive issue for me.
Anyway I have done alot of research, and I have changd the following:
* Checked the fuel pump fuse and changed it.
* I have changed the fuel pump relay.
* I have even put in a brand new door module, I have also noticed that one of the previous owners has also changed the door module for a brand new one less than a year ago. (wish I knew this before changing it)
* I have even changed the ECT.
* The car has had a full major service and even had the plugs changed.
But after changing my door module yesterday, I went out this morning, opened the driver door and no buzzing sound from the fuel pump
I know the module is working fine, as the interior light comes on when door it open, the car chimes if I put the lights on without the key & the puddle light comes on and the door locks perfectly fine as it did before I changed the door module.
I am starting to think now that it can only be the fuel pump itself? I also noticed quiet recently that if I have no music on, I can hear a slight which can only be discribed as a electronic wuring noise coming from the rear of the car, near where the fuel pump is, only apprant when the car is running.
It is also worth noting that I have noticed that if the car has half a tank of fuel or more, although I still don't hear the fuel pump priming the lines I don't have an issue with the car starting at all, I.e. I don't have to crank the car more than needed.
Also this only happens if the car has been sat for more than a few hours, i.e. the engine is cold.
This is lead me to think that the only thing that could be causing my issue is my fuel pump? Which confuses me as the car runs perfectly fine so my thought process on this lead me to think that if I had a faulty fuel pump, surely I would have running issues?
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Car audio / Re: Vw golf mk4 speaker help?
« Last post by Nino on 24 July 2026, 15:12 »This is right up my street. I've installed quite a few systems over the years, including a full custom install in my Mk4 R32, and it sounded fantastic.
The biggest piece of advice I can give you is don't get hung up on wattage. A lot of people see huge power numbers and assume it's going to sound amazing, but that's really not how car audio works.
Your first priority should be a good quality head unit. Personally I'd stick with Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood. I'd avoid the cheap Android units unless you're spending decent money on one, as the audio quality is generally nowhere near as good.
If your budget allows it, I'd also strongly recommend running your front speakers from a dedicated 4-channel amplifier rather than relying on the head unit's built-in amp. In my R32 I ran Focal 165AS components front and rear from a Kenwood 4-channel amp, and the difference was night and day. The speakers played louder, cleaner and with far more control than they ever did from the head unit alone. It's difficult to describe until you've heard it.
As for your mate recommending a 1500W sub, 1000W amp and 700W speakers... I'd honestly ignore the wattage figures. They're largely meaningless unless you're talking about RMS power, impedance (ohms), sensitivity and matching the speakers to the amplifier correctly. A well-matched 300W RMS setup can sound miles better than a badly matched "1500W" setup.
The first thing I'd ask is:
* What's your budget?
* Do you want a stealth install or don't mind losing some boot space?
* Are you after sound quality with a bit of punch, or are you trying to shake the windows?
For reference, I'm now in my 40s so my tastes have changed a bit! In my Mk6 GTI I'm running:
* Alpine iLX-705D head unit
* Focal IFVW front components
* MTX Thunder TR8PT active sub
It's not earth-shattering, but it gives me lovely crisp sound with enough bass to put a smile on my face without rattling the whole neighbourhood.
I actually wrote a fairly detailed guide on choosing a head unit over on the Mk6 section if you're interested:
https://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=290235.0
If you let us know your budget, I'm more than happy to recommend a complete setup that'll give you the best bang for your buck.
The biggest piece of advice I can give you is don't get hung up on wattage. A lot of people see huge power numbers and assume it's going to sound amazing, but that's really not how car audio works.
Your first priority should be a good quality head unit. Personally I'd stick with Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood. I'd avoid the cheap Android units unless you're spending decent money on one, as the audio quality is generally nowhere near as good.
If your budget allows it, I'd also strongly recommend running your front speakers from a dedicated 4-channel amplifier rather than relying on the head unit's built-in amp. In my R32 I ran Focal 165AS components front and rear from a Kenwood 4-channel amp, and the difference was night and day. The speakers played louder, cleaner and with far more control than they ever did from the head unit alone. It's difficult to describe until you've heard it.
As for your mate recommending a 1500W sub, 1000W amp and 700W speakers... I'd honestly ignore the wattage figures. They're largely meaningless unless you're talking about RMS power, impedance (ohms), sensitivity and matching the speakers to the amplifier correctly. A well-matched 300W RMS setup can sound miles better than a badly matched "1500W" setup.
The first thing I'd ask is:
* What's your budget?
* Do you want a stealth install or don't mind losing some boot space?
* Are you after sound quality with a bit of punch, or are you trying to shake the windows?
For reference, I'm now in my 40s so my tastes have changed a bit! In my Mk6 GTI I'm running:
* Alpine iLX-705D head unit
* Focal IFVW front components
* MTX Thunder TR8PT active sub
It's not earth-shattering, but it gives me lovely crisp sound with enough bass to put a smile on my face without rattling the whole neighbourhood.
I actually wrote a fairly detailed guide on choosing a head unit over on the Mk6 section if you're interested:
https://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=290235.0
If you let us know your budget, I'm more than happy to recommend a complete setup that'll give you the best bang for your buck.
69
Golf mk8 / Re: Mk 8 GTI rear screen wash jet.
« Last post by CrunchtheApple78 on 24 July 2026, 12:48 »Agree, it is a stupid design and I can’t believe given how many eyes will have seen this in the design phase it wasn’t amended. Bizarre!
70
Golf mk8 / Re: Mk 8 GTI rear screen wash jet.
« Last post by davo245 on 24 July 2026, 10:42 »Anyone manage to adjust this or get a modded or updated part fitted instead so it sprays into the wiper sweep instead of just straight down?