GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Dalo Harkin on 11 April 2013, 09:30
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Dilemma continues with the stealers................
So brand new shiny one from stealers is £123 or somewhere around that (surcharge included) :shocked:
Or I can get the same part from GSF for around £70 (surcharge included)
Seems the difference in the one from the stealers is it just has a VW part number on...............
So anyone have any input?
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Buy A Gen VW simples Most folk that buy cheap end up with problems!! Ask Dom Hes been threw 2 from GSF
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But they are both Bosch :undecided:
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Yup, Bosch GSF ones are reconditioned units and do not last. One fitted to my car when I bought it was a GSF one which failed within 8 months of owning the car, I replaced it with another GSF one which lasted 13 months.
A genuine VW one is brand new and is worth the difference in cost.
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I am having serious issues with the main dealers (if you look at my other post)
The one currently on is a genuine VW one and has lasted under 2 years (so within warranty)
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Try your local Bosch agent, will be cheaper than Genune
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I have two mafs for sale 2.75 one with housing for £25 posted or the 3" (s3 ko4 one) for £35 posted. Used but they work
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After another call to VW, having the car modified (in terms of remapped or chipped) invalidates the warranty, so been to GSF and got one for less than £60, if it invalidates the warranty why bother going to the stealers!
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Oh right ,couldnt you have just denied it or can they tell ?
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well they wanted to go for a drive in it first, not telling them would have been a bad accident I would have thought :grin:
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should have bought mine mate would have been half the price!
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Sorry mate, didn't know you had one going
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Yeah my bad thats why I changed my sig, no bother bro
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Dealers wanted to test drive your car?
That seems pretty odd in itself...
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They requested I drive it with one of them in to show symptoms, I said I would be leaving the car with them and they said they would drive it then..... think they were just being tw@ts imho
It was after this I got 20 questions in terms of any aftermarket parts and blah blah
I did think to myself on more than one occasion it was them trying to squirm out of the warranty
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Ha there's no way I'd let a bunch of parts monkeys drive my car to "test" the symptoms. They wouldn't have been able to tell much from driving it anyway.
The outsides of the Bosch units are just that; outsides. The main sensor is the important bit. See if that has Bosch printed on it
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Ha there's no way I'd let a bunch of parts monkeys drive my car to "test" the symptoms. They wouldn't have been able to tell much from driving it anyway.
On one hand people complain mechanics don't do a proper job by just plugging in a computer. Then there are complaints when they want to test drive the car, (infact they only wanted to sit in the car). A test drive as a valid part of a proper diagnostic test.
I did think to myself on more than one occasion it was them trying to squirm out of the warranty
Also, by having a mapped car you do invalidate the warranty. MAFs are designed to flow a certain amount of air, by requesting more boost you are flowing more air through that MAF than it was designed to take.
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Surely to find any symptoms they need to drive it..right? That's what we had to do, when I was an apprentice at Proton back 2000, sure not much has changed.
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MAFs are designed to flow a certain amount of air, by requesting more boost you are flowing more air through that MAF than it was designed to take.
Rubbish. The AGU MAF can happily flow around 180g/s of air which is enough to take you up to approx 220bhp.
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MAFs are designed to flow a certain amount of air, by requesting more boost you are flowing more air through that MAF than it was designed to take.
Rubbish. The AGU MAF can happily flow around 180g/s of air which is enough to take you up to approx 220bhp.
Bosch sensors work on the hot wire/hot mesh, and have several calibration curves depending on the application. ie g/s flow per volt. Flowing more air past them than they expect to see causes them to go out of calibration. This is the reason they seem so unreliable on mapped cars.
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So with this in mind saying 220bhp is the limit of the standard MAF, is the 3" MAF the only way forward because its been mapped on this one and I reckon it's over 220bhp.
I won't be going any higher than this (possibly looking to add WMI into the mix at some point but not for a while)
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sorry thats not true - stage 2 KO3's run around 240 brake on 2.75" maf
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ashmond how much for the ko3s maf mate? got a for sale thread?
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It's the AGU that has the lower range MAF, anything else will be fine at 220bhp
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What is the best option above 220bhp then?
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yeah they do a free road test " Free road test with a technician if required
We promise that if you want to demonstrate your concern face-to-face with one of our technicians, you can. Just ask and we'll arrange for one to be available for you: because sometimes it's easier to show than tell."
check the prices on there site :laugh:
http://www.driveingram.com/volkswagen/aftersales
thats up my way tho.
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What is the best option above 220bhp then?
TT one for you I think mate
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Doesn't that require mapping in though
Found this while looking around http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4197706-what-size-is-a-225hp-tt-maf-housing!