GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Foreveryoungaus16v on 25 March 2013, 20:49
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Anyone know of a good place I could send my throttle body to get polished and ported? Don't mind paying a
bit extra for a propper job.
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As far as I know everybody has done their own.
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Who is the expert on here that can do a good job? :smiley:
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Buy a spare and have a go yourself, its pretty easy really....
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Buy a spare and have a go yourself, its pretty easy really....
Thats what I did but because of a broken sensor! :grin:
I used some round metal files, others have used dremel type tools, both with a hand finish with emery paper.
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I've tried both files and dremmel, and with a dremmel it's quicker, easier and leaves a better finish.
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Pics of what to remove?
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After dremmel I get the metal polish out and a rag and use good old bit of elbow Greece to get almost mirror finish
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After dremmel I get the metal polish out and a rag and use good old bit of elbow Greece to get almost mirror finish
elbow greece from ancient grease? :grin:
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I would just rather pay someone to do a good job for me :smiley:
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If someone can provide a decent set of pictures showing before/after, I will happily port it out and polish it for you on my lathe.
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=250621.msg2300483#msg2300483
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Cracking, fire us a PM then foreveryoungaus16v! If you send it my way, I'd appreciate it if you could measure the manifold port size so I can match them up, preferably with vernier calipers or something accurate :smiley:
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Sent you PM my friend :smiley:
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On an 8v as you can only skim out so much on the lathe before it undercuts on the top side while you still have some step at the bottom.
By the time you have clocked it true on your face plate you could have dremmeled it :smiley:
Buy some Carbide burrs (not cheap) as they will cut it very cleanly and quickly and stay sharp for years if used on ali.
Dont drop them or press too hard as they will break.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Piece-Tungsten-Carbide-Burr-Set-3mm-3mm-shank-10-3x3-/360623128658?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D6568693252580083354%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D160968467775%26
If your up for making new vanes (Tricky) you can take it out a bit bigger and blend the step right out on a lathe :wink:
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If someone can provide a decent set of pictures showing before/after, I will happily port it out and polish it for you on my lathe.
You could make a tidy profit doing these SpikeNipple, i want mine doing but haven't got the balls to do it myself!
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If you need yours doing too then drop me a PM. I'll probably take mine off later and measure it all up so I can produce some definitive drawings :wink:
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I'll get a spare and get back to you, cheers buddy!!!
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I have a spare I wouldn't mind sending off to get done :cool:
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Drop me a PM buddy!
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I think i have started off a good little earner for u :grin:
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Haha you could be right! Can you suggest how much you'd be happy to pay? And no I won't accept Mars Bars or Grandmas :laugh:
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I'll do it for a grandma as long as she takes her teeth out.
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She might even let you polish her port :lipsrsealed:
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Guys to just inject a little bit of realism to the thread,
Shirley you need to mark the porting on your own throttle bodies because there could well be casting differences and if you pull too much material out then you merely create a step again in the other direction?
To get a good match they need to be marked up for you to shave...
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I would have thought that the inlet manifold port is machined to size.
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I would have thought that the inlet manifold port is machined to size.
It is...and it's larger than you can get the TB casting, so no need for concern.
Just to remind people...opening up the TB will only give 1-2 BHP if you are lucky, on a standard engine...and go too far, and it'll kangaroo in traffic. That's from experience.
The ramps are there for a reason - to speed up airflow and make it more progressive at small openings...remove them and you lose the smooth transition from closed to part open throttle.
Just removing the ramps is usually OK with little by way of negative effects...but re-profile the casting and you can get kangarooing, with absolutely no gain in power.
I'll say that again: there is NO gain over simply removing the ramps, and that's on a 195+ BHP 16v.
So, by all means do it...just understand the downsides, and don't go expecting miracles.
If anyone is opening it up in a lathe, you'll need a 4 jaw, as the casting is offset.
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I would have thought that the inlet manifold port is machined to size.
It is...and it's larger than you can get the TB casting, so no need for concern.
Just to remind people...opening up the TB will only give 1-2 BHP if you are lucky, on a standard engine...and go too far, and it'll kangaroo in traffic. That's from experience.
The ramps are there for a reason - to speed up airflow and make it more progressive at small openings...remove them and you lose the smooth transition from closed to part open throttle.
Just removing the ramps is usually OK with little by way of negative effects...but re-profile the casting and you can get kangarooing, with absolutely no gain in power.
I'll say that again: there is NO gain over simply removing the ramps, and that's on a 195+ BHP 16v.
So, by all means do it...just understand the downsides, and don't go expecting miracles.
If anyone is opening it up in a lathe, you'll need a 4 jaw, as the casting is offset.
As I said earlier best on a face plate over a 4 jaw as you will probably need to shim it to get it running true and its easier to hold, done it loads f**ked a few up in the process :lipsrsealed:
You are right it is has a an offset :smiley:
Not so sure on the purpose of the ramp, I will say that the step enables an easier tidy shut off between the two cores in the mould, its how I would build it.
You are right in saying it would speed the air up so I. am sitting on the fence.
Guys to just inject a little bit of realism to the thread,
Surely you need to mark the porting on your own throttle bodies because there could well be casting differences and if you pull too much material out then you merely create a step again in the other direction?
To get a good match they need to be marked up for you to shave...
As I mentioned if you get it wrong on a lathe you will create an undercut opposite the original step, need to clock the bore and mark the cutting surface so you can see where its cutting.
Bore is pretty good but flanges run out a little hence face plate and shim mentioned above.
Some types need an angle plate so you can get in on the compound slide from the back
I have a shelf full of TB's and MAF housings which I have mullered over the years, I used to do a practice one before I took on paying work....
Butterfly must come out when working it on a lathe, also the mechanism and wheel off the side.
Also be aware that you may hit some porosity, also cutting speed will need to be right as you will get a rough finish.....
By all means have a go, the 8v and VR are about the easiest to do and KR the hardest on golfs.
I made a fortune on Fiesta Zetec's as they are pretty restrictive and the Mazda large body TB's are like gold dust and twice the price.
There is a hole in the ceiling tiles above my old workshop where one did a flyer :lipsrsealed:
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Sounds very tricky :shocked:
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Infact it sounds like far too much hassle attempting to put it on a lathe for negligible gains. Dremel will suffice in this instance.
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Admittedly I know nothing of the advantages/disadvantages of porting the throttle body, but when it comes to the setup on a lathe I'm sure it won't be a problem (thanks for the tips Ess_Three & VW BUSH :smiley:). It's a case of time vs money vs effort and I'm fortunate enough to have access to the equipment to get the job done.
I'm going to lighten and balance a spare flywheel on Tuesday too :cool:
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I'm going to lighten and balance a spare flywheel on Tuesday too :cool:
Do one for me! pretty please! :grin:
Where in Wilshire are you?
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Trowbridge, unfortunately :grin:
I haven't started modifying my flywheel yet, as I'm halfway through making the balancing arbor for it. Once I've finished mine I'll give you a shout :smiley: