GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Danny171 on 04 November 2012, 20:50
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Just took skirt of drivers side,front jack point is a total mess, needs welding about 600mm back from front arch.
The welding isn't a problem, I have all the gear and experience.
The question is do I just cut out the sh!t and plate straight over, or do I need to strengthen the jack point again??
Any advice or pictures would be appreciated
Thanks
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I would cut out the rot,plate it up and never jack off the sills :smiley:
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That's what I was thinking, the lip on the sil has totally gone for 600mm, seems pointless to fabricate another one, would just plating it all up be ok with the mot ??
Although the inspector is my mate :wink:
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If i was doing it i would just replicate what was there before (including the lip) aslong as its a good solid repair (lip or no lip) you will have no trouble :wink:
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Thanks for the advice, gonna get some steel tomorrow, see how it goes.
Might take some pics before and after
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No probs ,look forward to the pics :smiley:
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Jacking points must have that downward lip/flange.
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Is that fact?
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ive seen cars with an mot that dont have them, i dont believe that it has to be there, however it looks like a much tidier job when the lip is remade, looks like a bodge without it, also the side skirts if being retained bolt through the lip....
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I'd like to see before and after pics when you do this please! I'm afraid I might have to tackle the same thing very shortly.. :undecided:
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Right, rebuild the lip it is then, will take some photos tonight and put them on,
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I've just had to do a huge load of welding on my girlfriends Ka. Pretty easy once you get going, I personally covered the welds in red oxide and seam sealer then fibreglass, filler and primer and paint.
MOT tester said he couldn't even see where it had been welded and there was A LOT of welding done!
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When i did mine I cut out the rot and reenforced the inner sill right down to the lip while I could get access to it. Got some cheap non oem sills of ebay and cut out the bits that I needed and welded them flush, no over lapping edges. Looked invisible and could be jacked up on sill afterwards.
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When i did mine I cut out the rot and reenforced the inner sill right down to the lip while I could get access to it. Got some cheap non oem sills of ebay and cut out the bits that I needed and welded them flush, no over lapping edges. Looked invisible and could be jacked up on sill afterwards.
What sort of steel did you use to build up the jack area?
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Was 1mm thick stuff. Bought it off ebay lol.
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(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/dansak82/IMG_1176.jpg)
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/dansak82/IMG_1180.jpg)
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/dansak82/IMG_1179.jpg)
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/dansak82/IMG_1180.jpg)
As you can see the lip is totally rotted away, got some good thick steel to plate over now, just unsure on how to build the middle bit of the inner sill, to give it strength to jack from.
Suppose i am just gonna make it up as i go
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how about some triangular ish pieces welded inside at 90 degrees
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Gonna get it all cut out, see properly what I'm up against.
Might strengthen the jack point with bit of 20x20 box section, plate over it all, then weld a strip of 35x5 flat bar to replicate the lip
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35x 5 :undecided: mk3 is heavy enough :laugh: , i would probably do something like this
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/screech16v/sILLREPAIR.jpg)
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35x 5 :undecided: mk3 is heavy enough :laugh: , i would probably do something like this
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/screech16v/sILLREPAIR.jpg)
Great diagram, makes it look so easy!!, on my pictures, no2, you can see a central strengthen piece that comes down vertical to make the lip three pieces of steel, do you follow me?? Hard to describe
That's the bit that's worrying me
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Yes mate i know what you mean,well depending on how much rot/metal you have to remove access may be a bit tricky but doable,i thought maybe something like this,i would probably make a tool or two to help form the steel.hope this gives you some ideas :wink:
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/screech16v/sILLREPAIR-1.jpg)
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Thanks for your time with the diagram, I did a little cutting back tonight, just to get a better look at what I need to do.
Now I have cut off the old lip,( it was all bent and twisted through bad jacking I presume) it actually looks a lot easier than I thought. I will be doing it just like the diagram .
Just need to give it a proper tidy up, gonna weld it Saturday if weather is fine, will upload some photos :smiley:
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No probs mate,it will be a breeze once you get going,just make sure you cut back to good metal, welding rust is just crap :rolleyes: ,cereal cardboard templates are your friend :wink:
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If its angle you need have a look at B&Q as they do nice bits of angle.
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Full day welding and cutting, strengthened the jack point, plated over the lot, made a new lip
Found new hole around drain bung so plated that up while i had the seat and carpet out
Looking for a new welding mask now, as dropped the jack, and the car squashed my speedglass :embarrassed:
(http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b619/dansak82/987ED026-3707-4E23-BB86-EAAB0591DDFC-290-0000001A31767BD2.jpg)
well easier than i imagined, just hard on the neck welding upside down :sad:
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Looks solid mate :cool: ,that speedglass is goin to cost ya!
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Cheers mate
Same next weekend on passenger side :sad:
Gutted about the speedglass,oh well :cry:
Great tip with the cereal box, worked a treat, saved a lot of work :cool:
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Yeah makes it loads easier,at least you will have a solid motor when your done :smiley:
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nice work, is it necessary to take out seat and carpet as you did?
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nice work, is it necessary to take out seat and carpet as you did?
Allways better to be safe than sorry :wink:
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Well when I noticed the drain bung rotting , it was so much easier to take seat out, fold carpet back, cut out rot and cut in a plate and get a nice weld in, I left it all out When welded sill up, and it only burnt a small amount of paint from inside.
But to be honest, took about 3 minutes to take seat out,and the same for interior trim and carpet
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I would still bin the widow maker and buy a proper jack, it will not be as strong and they are crap death jacks anyway :grin:
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Yes mate i know what you mean,well depending on how much rot/metal you have to remove access may be a bit tricky but doable,i thought maybe something like this,i would probably make a tool or two to help form the steel.hope this gives you some ideas :wink:
(http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa478/screech16v/sILLREPAIR-1.jpg)
Good diagram here. :cool: I did the same although the angle piece needs to be a thicker gauge as it is on the original car.
Ideally it should look like the original. And dont jack on the sills again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/0f52822b.jpg)
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Nice work mate , are you good at everything :grin: lol
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I would still bin the widow maker and buy a proper jack, it will not be as strong and they are crap death jacks anyway :grin:
It came to me in this state, I have a snap on trolley jack , wouldn't get underneath it on something I didn't trust
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Nice work mate , are you good at everything :grin: lol
I try :laugh: :grin:
Considering how it started.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/96424dec.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/2de6f720.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v458/tshirt2k/16vt%20project/d5981236.jpg)
On a side note. You may want to check all the bungs down the length of the sill. Most of mine had rot and the rust creeps under the underseal and you can tell.
Then you can weld them up or use them to squirt underbody wax inside.