GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: shaft69 on 05 August 2012, 15:19
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Has anyone got print out of there boost figure print out so i can see?? think having a bit of problem with mine, mate had it on his rollers today hitting 20psi at 3000rpm, but drops off to 12 at 6500rpm. So need figure out if it map telling n75 to drop boost or something else. Forge actuator with yellow spring cranked at moment.
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thats normal.
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There you go
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f140/dealawheel/fa1bc6f6.jpg)
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(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l42/carsey2006/th_19dd8e74.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l42/carsey2006/?action=view¤t=19dd8e74.mp4)
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Lad who got rollers think dropping off to much tq figures are brill 283ftlb but doesnt like boost. Line. Hits 19ish psi then just drops off best see if can just duty cycle of n75 or get rpm dependent electronic boost controller.
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a197/shaft69/IMAG0206.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a197/shaft69/IMAG0207.jpg)
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Doesnt look too bad.
You could possibly hold a slight bit more boost through midrange but what you have there is nothing to worry about.
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that's absolutely 100% normal, and no amount of mapping or fancy boost controllers will ever improve it.
The ko3S simple cannot flow any more boost than that as the revs climb. I too thought mine was at fault at first, tried an MBC, even tried an expensive quality EBC, but pretty soon realised that even with the EBC at 100% fixed DC, it did exactly the same thing, shot up to 20psi + (more like 25-26 on 1005 DC) but by 6500rpm it was down to 12psi or so.
Tiny turbo for you, punchy low down, sh!t at the top end
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Ye boys spoke to bill (badger5) today have me run down on Ko3s boost pressures, leave as is now look towards either k04 hybrid or gt2871r next year.
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Spoke APR today says will have to refit old actuator car not tuned for uprated one. Have checked old rr figures was actually making more power with standard actuator than with forge with yellow spring.
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If you have an uprated actuator fitted it should make potentially more boost, unless it's over boosting .
Why can't APR tune your map for the uprated actuator?
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APR seems to be very picky with.what components I fit, I'd say car performed better with original actuator. Also fitted n75j valve some months ago kept going into limp mode, also.tried n75h from mates car did same as soon as boost it 22-23psi limp mode. Have bought a race n75 of someone on here couple weeks back but not turned up yet ( be named and shamed if don't get money back). But going put standard actuator back on next week, it was making same boost as forge One anyway. Bloody cars eh!!!!
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think n75 h and the n75 race valve is the same thing.
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think n75 h and the n75 race valve is the same thing.
Apparently so
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Ho well looks like need to invest in frankenturbo kit and badger5 map.
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It will make the same boost as forge, most chances are on the initial spike and 100-1500rpm after then start to drop off LOTS more.
Forge unit is able to hold the actuator shut to the maps request all the way across the rev range.
Have you actually done any duty cycle logs to see how its performing? Gaurentee you that the forge unit will have less duty cycle instead of the stock one being maxxed out to try make top end power.
I dont know why APR are suggesting swapping back when they should know better to look at the logs in depth and see how its acting....any advice of a OEM unit being better than a very highly rated aftermarket upgrade would get me thinking about what they know.
Holding 12psi at redline is bloody good! Dare bet at that moment your duty cycles are well into the high 80%DC?
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It will make the same boost as forge, most chances are on the initial spike and 100-1500rpm after then start to drop off LOTS more.
Forge unit is able to hold the actuator shut to the maps request all the way across the rev range.
Have you actually done any duty cycle logs to see how its performing? Gaurentee you that the forge unit will have less duty cycle instead of the stock one being maxxed out to try make top end power.
I dont know why APR are suggesting swapping back when they should know better to look at the logs in depth and see how its acting....any advice of a OEM unit being better than a very highly rated aftermarket upgrade would get me thinking about what they know.
Holding 12psi at redline is bloody good! Dare bet at that moment your duty cycles are well into the high 80%DC?
sorry thats just daft swapping back to oem from a better unit, would adjusting the timing mess with the dyno figures?
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I never suggested swapping back to OEM?
Timing is what makes the power ;) it will have a HUGE influence on dyno figures.
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I never suggested swapping back to OEM?
Timing is what makes the power ;) it will have a HUGE influence on dyno figures.
wasnt saying it to you chris was saying it was daft for APR to suggesting putting the oem actuator back on. :wink: :kiss:
and i think shaft69 has been playing with his timing thats why i was asking if it would affect the boost readings on his dyno results.
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4.5deg of timing added so far can't adjust to much don't timing pull, at moment got hardly any pull with water Inj on. Found tho cranked OEM actuator boosted better than forge one, made more power with OEM one to. Getting v-tune loaded to APR map next thursday at psituning so have play with that.
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Just checking previous runs with OEM actuator cranked 3 turns was boosting 21psi with cranked forge 19psi, fitted n75j and was putting ecu into limp so with v-tune can raise boost by 130% so using j valve be ok. Which n75 gives more boost j or h??
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Sounds like your methods dont seem to mix well with the 20vt lump.
Get back to basics, get everything running right, then sort your map out. Stop messing round with N75 valves that make no difference and get a KNOWN WORKING one from the dealers or TPS. Set your actuator up correctly with 3 turn preload and get somewhere reliable to map it with the forge actuator with uprated spring. Anywhere that says they cant do it, walk away from.
What mods you have already? What engine code is it?
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Just me I mess to much;) but seriously getting the v-tune file loaded next week then take it in work next Sat set all up. Then that's itno more messing. Mine AUM engine, buhave spoke to bill badger5 says 12psi at 6500+rpm about right. Got BAM engine at work with some H rods and new rings for pistons want build that for next year with gt 28 or30 for car.
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Guess you are just using generic maps on a heavily modded engine....You really need a custom map from someone who knows what they doing.