GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: oceanic-green on 09 July 2012, 09:16
-
Just found that this has snapped, the bit between my finger. You can see that it comes from the top of the black thing next to the coolant bottle. What is it, and could it be a cause of a leak?
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip005.jpg)
Thanks
-
just vents fumes to charcoal cannister nt really anything to worry about just snip the end of and re attach it :smiley:
-
just vents fumes to charcoal cannister nt really anything to worry about just snip the end of and re attach it :smiley:
Thanks cullygti :smiley: That pipe and the pipes next to it move up and down, as the thing they are connected to is not really fixed in, does that matter at all?
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip006.jpg)
Thanks
-
mine are the same i think they are meant to be like that mate :smiley:
-
same here, The carbon canister is loose inside.
-
mine are the same i think they are meant to be like that mate :smiley:
OK, thanks :smiley:. I am just checking every pipe I can find, because I am so fed up of not feeling the remapped power any more :angry: especially after everything I have done to try and correct it :sad: I am nearly at the stage of regretting having the remap done! :undecided:
-
have you checked all the pcv system
-
have you checked all the pcv system
I deleted most of it with the catch can. I have the 5 piece turbo boost hose kit as well, n249 bypass, replaced a few other pipes with silicone, one under the inlet manifold to the fpr, and another by the side of it.
-
may sound silly but is the elbow that goes into the oil filter housing ok as they tend to snap :undecided: if you have replaced most of the pipes and installed catch can i cant think what else it could be :undecided:
-
may sound silly but is the elbow that goes into the oil filter housing ok as they tend to snap :undecided: if you have replaced most of the pipes and installed catch can i cant think what else it could be :undecided:
That is a new-ish pipe too, and I checked it last week when I put the catch can on because I took it out to fit the pipe on that goes to the T piece into the catch can. All is fine there.
I am really scratching my head now!! The only thing I am thinking it may be is that I had to T piece the silicone lines to the one port on the N112 valve, because I snapped the one port. But I don't know if that will make any difference or not :undecided:
-
Ok, to save starting another thread, I will just add on to this one :smiley:
Is the pipe that the arrow points to, likely to cause a boost problem if it leaks. It comes from the charcoal canister I think.
Thanks
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip009-1.jpg)
-
Isn't that a fuel pipe?
-
Isn't that a fuel pipe?
Is it? There is a valve connected to it I presume a NRV, which has a pipe going to the carbon canister
-
Maybe not then. If its a vac pipe and it's broke then yes it could be causing your power loss.
-
OP, take another pic from slightly further away, looks like what is plugged into it shouldnt be if that makes sense
-
i cant quite make it out either as said take a better pic dude :smiley:
-
OK guys, try these :smiley: This is the where the pipe originates from
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip012.jpg)
and here it is from a little further away
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip014.jpg)
and here is another just for clarification with my finger on the valve that connects the pipe in question to the pipe that goes to the carbon canister
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip016.jpg)
Thanks
-
if you follow that pipe it goes back to your TIP. It has one way valves in line so won't create a boost leak but could be leaking under vacuum
Do you have any fault codes?
-
if you follow that pipe it goes back to your TIP. It has one way valves in line so won't create a boost leak but could be leaking under vacuum
Do you have any fault codes?
I checked today and I don't have any fault codes at all.
I looked at your "carbon canister delete" thread and seen that you blocked off the part going to the tip, but mine seems different because I can't see how it goes back to the tip. All I see is that it goes underneath the inlet manifold and carries on down below somewhere, unless I have missed something :undecided:
-
lookin at the pipes that looks all wrong, that pipe you have arrowed should be connected to the throttle body with a T piece and the other side run up toward the firewall and into the TIP, looks like someone has either done some DIY :laugh: noticed the blue silicone going into a black pipe is that for a boost gauge?
take lots more pics of the bay from close and far because it looks like someone has connected pipes into things that shouldnt be from the pics I can see :huh:
-
lookin at the pipes that looks all wrong, that pipe you have arrowed should be connected to the throttle body with a T piece and the other side run up toward the firewall and into the TIP, looks like someone has either done some DIY :laugh: noticed the blue silicone going into a black pipe is that for a boost gauge?
take lots more pics of the bay from close and far because it looks like someone has connected pipes into things that shouldnt be from the pics I can see :huh:
Oh Oh sh!te, really !! :huh: :shocked: Well it wasn't me. I have not touched anything on that side of the bay. I will take some pictures later when I get a chance and post them up. Thanks mate :smiley:
My engine is an Aum, could it be a different set up to the other golf 1.8t engines?
Yes that blue into black is for the boost gauge
-
I wouldnt worry about it as yes some engine codes are different routeing of the pipes, Its been running ok up to now so dont worry too much :wink:
Get the pics posted and we can have a look
Pretty much all the piping is under the inlet manifold or connected to the TIP, so you should be able to trace it back to one of those points, most common causes for leaks are the N249 and N112 tubing (the maze under the inlet) and I noticed when I removed my carbon canister I got more boost (guessing one of the pipes had a split) and the last major place is the PCV system, so get a catch can ordered if you haven't all ready done that.
looking at the pic, I would also run a single piece of silicone into the boost gauge, this way its one less connection to cause a leak
-
I wouldnt worry about it as yes some engine codes are different routeing of the pipes, Its been running ok up to now so dont worry too much :wink:
Get the pics posted and we can have a look
It hasn't been running ok up until now :sad: After I had a service about 6-7 months ago, it was great, then I had the tip fitted shortly afterwards, and it wasn't normal again, I then eventually got the 5 piece turbo silicone hose kit fitted, (by myself) and it was fine again :smiley: but only for a few days, then it all went wrong again for no apparent reason, except that I must of developed a boost leak somewhere, so I had the charge pipe and hose changed for an agu one, and then I fitted a Venom induction kit, and did the catch can. None of this made it like it should be! So I then did the N249 bypass, and again it has still not fixed it :sad:
So here we are with some pictures as requested. I hope they help :smiley:
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/engine003.jpg)
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/engine018.jpg)
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip014.jpg)
The pipe above pointed out with the arrow connects to this metal pipe on the intake manifold that my finger is pointing to in picture below
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/engine009.jpg)
it comes out here where arrow points to in picture below
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/engine010.jpg)
It goes to here, see picture below with arrow
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/engine011.jpg)
Here is a picture of my N249 delete pipe work from under the metal plate
(http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab347/Darrenscriven/pip004.jpg)
-
First off - get rid of the clutter - you have left the hardlines in even though both ends arent connected, rip it out, the more room you in the bay the more you can see/work on.
Get rid of the SAI - frees up loads of room with those horrid corrugated pipes
run the black boost gauge piping across the firewall to over near the tip and then T into whichever vac you want
Get rid of the carbon canister, again less piping = less chance of leaks
I'll post some pics later of mine and then you can see how mine is, but bear in mind mine is ARZ
-
is that an AUM?
-
Yes, third pic down its stamped on the head ;)
-
ahhh missed that, so just to clarify, everything Oceanic-Green has done just removes pointless hoses and simplyfies the engine bay?
i mean, the whole story of Carbon canisters, N249 delete, SAI's remove etc. will that just improve engine response etc and will it throw up codes?
edit: will not be removing SAI's as i read you'd faily emission testing?
-
First off - get rid of the clutter - you have left the hardlines in even though both ends arent connected, rip it out, the more room you in the bay the more you can see/work on.
Yes ok I see your point, but I am not sure how they come off!
Get rid of the SAI - frees up loads of room with those horrid corrugated pipes
run the black boost gauge piping across the firewall to over near the tip and then T into whichever vac you want
Get rid of the carbon canister, again less piping = less chance of leaks
I'll post some pics later of mine and then you can see how mine is, but bear in mind mine is ARZ
I don't want to get rid of the SAI because as someone else mentioned I would fail emission test.
Good idea about the boost gauge line, I will run it from the dv.
I would get rid of the carbon canister, but I can't see how to do it for the Aum, as the guide on here is for the AGU, and mine is set up different. I can't see where it joins to the tip!
thanks i would like to see how yours looks
Thanks
-
I would get rid of the carbon canister, but I can't see how to do it for the Aum, as the guide on here is for the AGU, and mine is set up different. I can't see where it joins to the tip!
As you look at the carbon canistor the pipe will split "right" to the inlet manifold then "left" towards the bulk head, across the bulk head, down to the bottom of the turbo intake pipe.
The first take off on the turbo intake pipe should the one connecting the carbon canistor mate.
I totally agree ripping all the pointless pipes out will make alot more room to work with.
-
As you look at the carbon canistor the pipe will split "right" to the inlet manifold then "left" towards the bulk head, across the bulk head, down to the bottom of the turbo intake pipe.
The first take off on the turbo intake pipe should the one connecting the carbon canistor mate.
Sorry I am not that mechanically minded, still learning :smiley: but if the bulkhead is the back of the engine where the turbo is, then my carbon canister pipe does not go left that way, as I shown in my pictures. It goes to a metal pipe along the the inlet manifold next to the fuel rail, and out the other side where it connects via a blue silicone pipe (as I point out in the next picture) to another metal pipe, which disapeares out of sight
-
On picture 3 the pipe going towards the bulk head should be the one going to the tip buddy.
So much easier having AGU :grin: Less pipes and sensors to start with lol
-
On picture 3 the pipe going towards the bulk head should be the one going to the tip buddy.
I will have a look tomorrow, but that pipe goes along the fuel rail.
So much easier having AGU :grin: Less pipes and sensors to start with lol
yes I am starting to think that, but they are not as fast! :grin: :laugh:
-
So much easier having AGU :grin: Less pipes and sensors to start with lol
yes I am starting to think that, but they are not as fast! :grin: :laugh:
You're going to get stick from the AGU boys for that! :shocked: :shocked:
-
take a look at this, few diagrams there that you may be able to use to give you an idea of what goes where etc
http://nomads.eurodiscussion.net/t1343-pcv-positive-crank-ventilation-20vt
-
So much easier having AGU :grin: Less pipes and sensors to start with lol
yes I am starting to think that, but they are not as fast! :grin: :laugh:
You're going to get stick from the AGU boys for that! :shocked: :shocked:
LOL
take a look at this, few diagrams there that you may be able to use to give you an idea of what goes where etc
http://nomads.eurodiscussion.net/t1343-pcv-positive-crank-ventilation-20vt
You are a star!! :smiley: that makes perfect sense now, I new I wasn't going mad :laugh: that metal pipe comes out by the tip and in my second picture you can see the oem hose that is connected to it. It is the small black pipe that goes up next to the heat shield and catch can pipe to the hockey puck. It bends around the tip and fits in near the bottom of it.
Thank you :smiley:
-
Good, Good.
But your car still has a problem?
-
Good, Good.
But your car still has a problem?
Yes, :sad: But, if I do the carbon canister delete tomorrow, then that may solve it...hopefully :undecided: because there could be a boost leak in that pipe somewhere :undecided:
Is it still ok to do it if I don't have the 10w 330 OHM resisters. By that I mean if i do the carbon canister delete without the resisters, will it effect the power at all, or will it just chuck up a code?
-
Would of thought it would just be an engine light on.
You get it with decats (unless mapped out), and it doesnt effect the running - just a light :wink:
-
Ill do the pics soon :wink:
as for SAI failing emissions, all it does is heat the cat when the car is cold, and sound like a jet engine, mine has passed since being removed
-
Would of thought it would just be an engine light on.
You get it with decats (unless mapped out), and it doesnt effect the running - just a light :wink:
Right then, tomorrow is operation carbon canister delete :laugh:
Ill do the pics soon :wink:
as for SAI failing emissions, all it does is heat the cat when the car is cold, and sound like a jet engine, mine has passed since being removed
Cool, I look forward to seeing them :smiley:
I had my SAI rivets replaced with bolts to stop it leaking, so mine should be ok.. I hope ! So I will leave it on, as I don't intend on getting a high flow sports cat, or de catting it.
-
(http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r539/DaloHarkin/WP_000517.jpg)
(http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r539/DaloHarkin/WP_000516.jpg)
-
(http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r539/DaloHarkin/WP_000515.jpg)
(http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r539/DaloHarkin/WP_000519.jpg)
-
(http://i1170.photobucket.com/albums/r539/DaloHarkin/WP_000518.jpg)
Hope these help - I tried to do them in order so you can see what goes where :wink:
The one thats capped off (near the TIP) with a nut basically ran into the Carbon canister and the TB with a T piece, I did have the 8mm - 4mm reducer with the boost gauge on but it rattled like hell, and when I put it back to the DV thats when I noticed the boost hold better so I must have had a leak along that stretch
-
Thanks, that is a great help :smiley: I am going to change my boost gauge to the dv like you have tomorrow as well as doing the cc delete. The place where my cc pipe goes into the tip is a bit further down the tip than it looks like on yours, I tightened it up the other day, but I didn't realise what it was!
Cheers