GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => General discussion => Topic started by: clipperjay on 08 March 2012, 14:52
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Any suggestions would be good :laugh: :lipsrsealed:
I have the following materials & tools: :grin:
Larfarge yellow cement bag 10KG
20KG building sand
A 100ltr plastic bucket
one spade
one angle grinder with dimond cutter blade
Oh yeah scafolding aswell doing it right LOL!
I have no building experience so break me gentley!
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020970.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020969.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020968.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020967.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020966.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020965.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020964.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020963.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020962.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020961.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020971.jpg)
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Do you have a mobile phone and access to Google?
I think these would be the most valuable assets at this difficult (and shortly to be more expensive) time.
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You should come over and help me DH I heard you're good with a hammer :smug:
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Thats needs to be removed & rebuilt before it comes down :shocked: all depends how good your bricklaying skills are?
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if that was me i'd need some bigger testicles :grin:
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The tapered chimney looks like only two bricks need replacing, but the smaller one needs taking down to the lead flash and rebuilding, because another cold winter will only split the bricks even worse.
Notice how the pointing on the tapered one has probably preserved the bricks through the weather/time.
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Well I'm doing the easy bit chimney one and coping stones the second FOked one I've never seen and three corses need removing and rebuilding.
The only issue I have is I'll need scafolding across neighbours drive and his flat roof just to get to it otherwise if I don't get permission I'll have to get water ballast to counter any funny scafolding drapped over the roof!
Anyone use easy rake looks like a routing tool but not sure if worth it? £50 odd quid the diamond disc alredy cost me £20.00! Plus spent £40 on the angle grinder my old one had just died from abuse!
The money could have gone on my MK2 :sad:
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The tapered chimney looks like only two bricks need replacing, but the smaller one needs taking down to the lead flash and rebuilding, because another cold winter will only split the bricks even worse.
Notice how the pointing on the tapered one has probably preserved the bricks through the weather/time.
Agreed.
I took down and rebuilt a 5 ft brick pillar last summer. It's easy once you get the hand of it.
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you'll need a 2ft spirit level :wink:
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you'll need a 2ft spirit level :wink:
Dont laugh Alex this little discovery has set me back a few quid that could have gone on the new boiler system :lipsrsealed:
The tapered chimney looks like only two bricks need replacing, but the smaller one needs taking down to the lead flash and rebuilding, because another cold winter will only split the bricks even worse.
Notice how the pointing on the tapered one has probably preserved the bricks through the weather/time.
Agreed.
I took down and rebuilt a 5 ft brick pillar last summer. It's easy once you get the hand of it.
Its all about time to me Jon I've not used cement and bricks before :embarassed: if it was on ground level I would have a go, but the cost of scafolding these days its not cheap rather have someone just take out the bad courses and cap it over.
The fire place is not being used plus if I wanted full tile replacement it would mean more money and noone can see that side of the house.
Anyone near who can do such a job? the scafolding will be inplace before anyone comes I need to plan it now or come winter I fear the worst TBH. :rolleyes:
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put the scaff up and get a brickie in. you could prob get one for half a day quite cheap?
did you sort the overheating issue? i'm sure the boiler will keep a while longer :wink:
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put the scaff up and get a brickie in. you could prob get one for half a day quite cheap?
did you sort the overheating issue? i'm sure the boiler will keep a while longer :wink:
yeah all I did was put the stat on the boiler back to half and it sorted itself out.
I think you was right about the time it takes to circulate the heated water and the temps it was reaching before lock out on the boiler. No more rumbles or lock outs!
For now it seems alright, but it always is when warm weather comes back :grin:
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so the circulation issue still remains :grin:
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so the circulation issue still remains :grin:
I was thinking about a new pump a grundig one :laugh: can you get me some prices on some?
The egay ones where cheap ALpha? I think it was called...? looked nice with variable speeds..yada yada?
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so the circulation issue still remains :grin:
I was thinking about a new pump a grundig one :laugh: can you get me some prices on some?
The egay ones where cheap ALpha? I think it was called...? looked nice with variable speeds..yada yada?
pmsl. get a wilo pump. cheaper, longer warranty and more efficient.
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so the circulation issue still remains :grin:
I was thinking about a new pump a grundig one :laugh: can you get me some prices on some?
The egay ones where cheap ALpha? I think it was called...? looked nice with variable speeds..yada yada?
pmsl. get a wilo pump. cheaper, longer warranty and more efficient.
Okay mate any specific model type?
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WILO-SMART-PUMP-A-25-4-130-ROW-RATED-HIGH-EFFICENCY-FREE-P-P-/300675678632?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item4601aac1a8
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grind out the old mortar, remove them sh!t bricks replace with new 1s and re-point :smiley:
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Cool Alex I get one as a back up :grin:
Cheers Matey! :smiley:
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grind out the old mortar, remove them sh!t bricks replace with new 1s and re-point :smiley:
Whats the best way to remove the two smaller FCK bricks?
Chistle and hammer? :undecided:
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grundfos-15-50-Circulating-pump-BNIB-/180836660556?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a1ab4754c
if you're quick you might win this cheap. wilo seem to be same price as grundfos now but with longer warranty.
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grind out the old mortar, remove them sh!t bricks replace with new 1s and re-point :smiley:
Whats the best way to remove the two smaller FCK bricks?
Chistle and hammer? :undecided:
yeah should be fine mate, replace 1 brick at a time then once all replaced re-point it all
my 1st ever job when left school was this sort off work, on my 1st day the boss left me with a grinder which id never handled 1 before and left me 2 it :grin: make sure u where goggles i didnt and ended up with a swollen eye from all the sh!t dust and there will be alot :smiley:
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grundfos-15-50-Circulating-pump-BNIB-/180836660556?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item2a1ab4754c
if you're quick you might win this cheap. wilo seem to be same price as grundfos now but with longer warranty.
whats the max on this should I go?
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£30-35 plus delivery. don't know if it's in warranty or not
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£30-35 plus delivery. don't know if it's in warranty or not
I'm going to wait mate I'll stick in 26.00 see what happens?
you sure it will fit on my system?
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£30-35 plus delivery. don't know if it's in warranty or not
I'm going to wait mate I'll stick in 26.00 see what happens?
you sure it will fit on my system?
no i'm telling you to buy pumps i've never ever seen before :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
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checked the model just now it will fit dont think the willo one would though?
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checked the model just now it will fit dont think the willo one would though?
you're trying my patience now :grin:
it will fit. i'll bet you the cost of the pump on whether it will or not?
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It went past my 26.50 :grin: with postage it was 46 could get a new one for that?
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your needing some brickes and a motar rake. as well as tools to lay bricks
thet one chimeny id just knock down and rebuild quicker andeasyer than fixing it, hammer bolster will do it nut you may find you can just pluck the bricks off, masonary drill is one way you can get a brick out the other chiney just chain drill round the bugger and ork it loose
the other would point up
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Its all about time to me Jon I've not used cement and bricks before :embarassed: if it was on ground level I would have a go, but the cost of scafolding these days its not cheap rather have someone just take out the bad courses and cap it over.
The fire place is not being used plus if I wanted full tile replacement it would mean more money and noone can see that side of the house.
Anyone near who can do such a job? the scafolding will be inplace before anyone comes I need to plan it now or come winter I fear the worst TBH. :rolleyes:
If you're not using the chimney, then cap it with a paving slab. Just take the bricks down to the level of the flashing, and the other crap ones below on the other side. Salvage the good ones to build back to the height of the flashing, then lay the paving slab on top.
Get a pointing chisel or use an old heavy duty screw driver to get the old cement out the smaller vertical sections, then finish off the repointing with a cement that's not as wet as when laying bricks. You won't be able to force a wet cement inbetween the bricks, as it will slop out and make a right feckin mess.
It's best to clean out the old cement (below the flashing height) that you want to repoint while the chimney is up, as the weight will hold the bricks nice and tight.
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Its all about time to me Jon I've not used cement and bricks before :embarassed: if it was on ground level I would have a go, but the cost of scafolding these days its not cheap rather have someone just take out the bad courses and cap it over.
The fire place is not being used plus if I wanted full tile replacement it would mean more money and noone can see that side of the house.
Anyone near who can do such a job? the scafolding will be inplace before anyone comes I need to plan it now or come winter I fear the worst TBH. :rolleyes:
If you're not using the chimney, then cap it with a paving slab. Just take the bricks down to the level of the flashing, and the other crap ones below on the other side. Salvage the good ones to build back to the height of the flashing, then lay the paving slab on top.
Get a pointing chisel or use an old heavy duty screw driver to get the old cement out the smaller vertical sections, then finish off the repointing with a cement that's not as wet as when laying bricks. You won't be able to force a wet cement inbetween the bricks, as it will slop out and make a right feckin mess.
It's best to clean out the old cement (below the flashing height) that you want to repoint while the chimney is up, as the weight will hold the bricks nice and tight.
cheers!
I'm going to buy new bricks I think back in 1930's when they built the house used old tech bricks not the frost free types you get today. The good thing is no one can see the dam chinney from anypoint, its too hidden so newer bricks or slab won't be an issue!
I was going to change the flashing I was told that as a matter for course? Not sure though?
your needing some brick's and a motar rake. As well as tools to lay bricks
That one chimney I would just knock down and rebuild quicker and easier than fixing it, hammer the bolster will do it But you may find you can just pluck the bricks off, masonary drill is one way you can get a brick out the other chimney just chain drill round the bugger and fork it loose! The other would point up.
cheers Danny drilling the holes is a good idea I recon they are so old it should just come out! :lipsrsealed:
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Id be fooked I dont do heights. Me and my mate was paining his house but couldnt do the top because neither of us would go up that high pmsl :grin:
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Id be fooked I dont do heights. Me and my mate was paining his house but couldnt do the top because neither of us would go up that high pmsl :grin:
Me niether, but trying to keep costs down and its sad I can't concrete bricks at two storey height!
Just got permission to stick scafolding on the next neigbours flat roof luckily he used to be a builder, but retired now!
given me pointers :rolleyes:
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Talking of heights, this is a ladder we use on a regular basis, takes four men to put up!
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h117/tommympuk/ladderlookingup.jpg)
It just about gets to the fifth storey!!
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:shocked:
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holy sh!t
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Quality stuff, this reminds me when I was putting up a aerial 3storeys high, yet I had no one at the bottom and the gap between the properties was extremely narrow so it was literally vertical bouncing back and fourth whilst drilling. Never again.
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Becoming a nightmare saw some pointing loose on some of the coping tilles and this is what happened!
when I took them off I killed one queen wasp trying to barb me and a big earwig sticking his barbed ass in my face both are now toast :lipsrsealed:
Do I remove the old cement right off or can I patch some on top ? :cry: :undecided:
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020986.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020985.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020984.jpg)
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(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020987.jpg)
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I'd remove the old loose cement and start again, this ain't like doing up a up mini you want it to last :grin:
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The cement is solid! underneath!
My idea is just re-cement the pointing around the copping tilles as water should runn off them anyways?
Okay I'm trying to do less work here :grin:
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tigerseal :laugh: :grin:
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tigerseal :laugh: :grin:
Only if I could mate :grin:
Well most of it its done needs more cement did 11 spades to three cement a bit of water and plasteriser or whatever it's called made f**k all cement just about did a few tilles! :cry:
it an't pretty as my old girlfriend would say!
At least I know how much sand and cement I really need about 100Kg only got 20KG :lipsrsealed:
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B&Q is still open :grin:
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B&Q is still open :grin:
I'm knackard just smacking out the loose cement, it was painfull, but not as painfull as mixing dam the cement!
Calling it a day :lipsrsealed:
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(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020989.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020988.jpg)
You can see I ran out right at the end!
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa51/Clipperjay/misc/P1020991.jpg)
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anyone watching you must think what a weirdo taking pictures of what he is doing :shocked:
if only they knew you were sharing them with strange men off the internet :laugh:
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Off topic circles of weirdos there is life after cars :rolleyes:
The pics are for a building mate helping me at the mo.
I will start on the car now so updates on the project just too keep uninterested peeps happy! :tongue:
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Today you became a real man.
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Today you became a real man.
thanks Jon I think? :laugh:
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That cement mix looks very weak for roof pointing :lipsrsealed:
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That cement mix looks very weak for roof pointing :lipsrsealed:
I thought possibly it might have been, which is why I only did that section!
I'll wait for it to dry, but I was doing 4 part sand to each 1 part cement?
If it crumbles off I'll know to do 3 part sand to one part cement problem is every one had there own formula? (shrug shoulders)
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fvck the formula. i'd have used a 1:1 mix :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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fvck the formula. i'd have used a 1:1 mix :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
+1 I've always been told 1:1 for a good job, I've got to do some brick laying soon as well :cry:
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Concrete
General Purpose Concrete – 1:2:3 mix
Ideal for most uses except foundations and exposed paving. It is composed of one part cement, two parts sand and three parts coarse aggregate. If using combined aggregate, this mix would be 1:4, one part cement to four parts combined aggregate.
Foundation Concrete – 1:2 ½:3 ½ mix
Ideal for wall foundations or bases and laying paving slabs, etc. One part cement, two and a half sand and three and a half coarse aggregate. If using combined aggregate, this mix would be 1:5.
Paving Concrete – 1:1 ½:2 ½ mix
Used for exposed paving such as driveways and garage floors. One part cement, one and a half parts sand and two and a half parts coarse aggregate. Combined aggregate would need a mix of 1:3 ½.
Mortar
Standard Mortar 1:5 mix
Used for internal or sheltered bricklaying. Mix one part cement to 5 parts soft sand. Add a small amount of lime or one part plasticizer to increase the workability. This type of mortar mix is perfect for use in an internal block partition wall.
Strong Mortar 1:4 mix :smiley:
Used for exposed brickwork. Mix one part cement to 4 parts soft sand. Again, add a small amount of lime or plasticizer to increase the workability.
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im a bricklayer mate and 3-4 sand to 1 cement should be fine if your replacing the bricks you would be better using an engineering brick as they do not absorb water which is what you dont want as its a chimney and a good weather struck joint would be best suited to finish it off rather than raked out if you need any info on raking tools to finish the mortar joints pm me :wink:
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im a bricklayer mate and 3-4 sand to 1 cement should be fine if your replacing the bricks you would be better using an engineering brick as they do not absorb water which is what you dont want as its a chimney and a good weather struck joint would be best suited to finish it off rather than raked out if you need any info on raking tools to finish the mortar joints pm me :wink:
cheers mate Its all guess work from my end but I'm happy I just got on with it!
I thought about buying a mortar rake irwin diamond rotour I think it 10cm odd, but the motar is so old I should be able to just scrap it out as I've learned about over cutting bricks with the angle grinder on vertical joins
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np mate like i say if you get stuck give me a shout :smiley:
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You brave man although it might be worth it when its all sorted and your in wifeys good books :kiss: :cool: :grin:
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You brave man although it might be worth it when its all sorted and your in wifeys good books :kiss: :cool: :grin:
I'm not doing it for the wife directly :grin:
The kids run about the sides of the bloody house all the time, and I can't risk another bad winter comming plus my insurance isn't going to cover tne neighbours flat roof if it falls in on it :lipsrsealed:
Funny thing about people they ignore it, ignore it catch it early and pay for it later! :cry:
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fvck the formula. i'd have used a 1:1 mix :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
+1 I've always been told 1:1 for a good job, I've got to do some brick laying soon as well :cry:
Who told you that?
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fvck the formula. i'd have used a 1:1 mix :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
+1 I've always been told 1:1 for a good job, I've got to do some brick laying soon as well :cry:
Who told you that?
A good friend of my dads, his a surveyor by trade and the guy that's doing plans for my extension. What's wrong with the philosophy? I'm not a bricklayer by trade and its always good to learn/be corrected.
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1:1 mix but people forget sharp sand should be mixed in aswell depends what you are doing?
That guide on mixes is not bad TBF. Some mixes are too strong and some too weak both end up cracking or not bonding all I know is I'm not bloody doing this again for another 10 years if not longer.
Did some more pointing on the front drive wall came out good!
I showed the pictures to my builder mate he told me take them off wait until I come its gonna leak!
I said why he said the coping tiles are too close together and could run water down instead of around?
I still have some paving steps in the garden that need pointing so I'm doing other stuff and wait until a mate can come down to guide me like someone said I'm not fixing a mini :laugh:
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Get yourself one of these Jay.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efRAFS3ty44
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Thats quite clever £30 not bad most pro will just tell me to Fk off if I took them along for job interview :grin:
The DIY market is booming as money is tight and TBF its a accurate tool indeed! :cool:
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fvck the formula. i'd have used a 1:1 mix :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
+1 I've always been told 1:1 for a good job, I've got to do some brick laying soon as well :cry:
Who told you that?
A good friend of my dads, his a surveyor by trade and the guy that's doing plans for my extension. What's wrong with the philosophy? I'm not a bricklayer by trade and its always good to learn/be corrected.
Nothing wrong with the philosophy if you want the cement to crack and fall out in a couple of years, that's assuming it doesn't dry too quick and crack in the first place from being too strong.
My landlord is a bricklayer, I used to be a labourer, never mixed stronger than 3:1 and most cases 5:1, just causes problems if it's mixed too strong.
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Havent been around lads the house was falling down had to buy two catlincs to support the roof and its been nightmare I'll post some pictures :lipsrsealed:
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3:1 on that..
I'm a stonemason and use hydraulic lime alot, thats when strengths/drying times really matter.. Costs 3 times as much too.
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Get yourself one of these Jay.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efRAFS3ty44
there arnt all that tbh used one once never boteherd again
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Still building the top on the roof we had to remove beams and about four levels of bricks plus all plaster boards and plaster being removed and re done. He junked my electrics because they were dangerous and re wired the extention hiding the wires behind new plaster making new junctions and hanging new lights!
TBF they are my mates and the chimnney stacks have been redone even the paving slabs in the back are being reset.
Four days of solid building I never expected it ordered about £800 of materials to do the job and the ld don't want paying due to lack of money! 1ton sand, 1ton cement, plaster, plaster boards everything!
I think in reality I owe them about 2K worth of labour :lipsrsealed:, but they are bloody good builders its what they do all day long!
Learning alot and have to say I have new found respect for what they do! :cool:
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after all this that pump will give up now :grin: :grin: :grin: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :lipsrsealed: :lipsrsealed: :lipsrsealed:
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after all this that pump will give up now :grin: :grin: :grin: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :lipsrsealed: :lipsrsealed: :lipsrsealed:
Don't say that Alex Richie my mate wants to stay for one month to sort out more things for me!
I just dont have the cash safety first then cosmetics later!
Broke is not the word I can use at the moment :lipsrsealed:
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i won't be expecting that phone call anytime this year then :grin:
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i won't be expecting that phone call anytime this year then :grin:
I'll fit you in at somepoint mate.
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no rush i'm fully booked for the next 3 months
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Still fixing the one panel of safety glass has been cracked all the way through, so sticking in polycarb in there until the extension can be added!
So much money but its got to be safe! :cry: