GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: francoisd2446 on 05 January 2012, 23:00
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Have a mk3 vr6 aaa engine code wont start when warm starts first time when cold and will run all the time, really need some help guys, love the car but it will go if can't fix I am fed up of it, no one can pinpoint the issue, one said it is immob issue but then if so why would it start first time?
Reading a lot about thermostat going to try next.
I also can't get the vag com to communicate only thing it can find is the abs and that is it, I need fantics help please...... :cry:
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have you tried the throttlebody
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try doing a search buddy this has been covered thousands of times.
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how does the throttle body affect the warm start ?
Will do more searches but so far found could be the coolant temp sensor....
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throttle body wouldnt affect it, if its cutting out when warm then usually its EMCS, engine management coolant sensor. Thermostat wouldnt affect the non starting issue either.
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Thanks DubandDuber the ECMS is that the blue sensor (or what they call the temperature sender unit (run on)? I bought one today and going to try tommorow.
Johnyvr6 thanks for you advice also, I will hopefully have an update tommorow so let you guys know.
Would also really aprreciate it if you guys throw some more idea's my way if the blue sensor don;lt fix it.
I was thinking maybe to test the fuel pressure would that cause this effect ?
Also I bought a sensor for this engine but can't seem to find where it goes it they told me when I bought it for the aaa engine there is only one sensor could be the cam position sensor or hall sender, it has a plug to connect somewhere and a prong at the end with one bolt on it, guess this would be for the timing but can't see on top of engine so going to look underneath.Any idea's ? :undecided:
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put a pic of it up
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will put pic of up 2mrw
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ok changed the blue coolant sensor this morning and won't even start cold
now.
All I can here is one of the fuel injectors consistently running...headache now...the car trys to start revs a bit high then just cuts out.with the key turned to position one I see the oil light flag then stop flashing is that also normal ?
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Disconnect your battery for 30 mins
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Sounds like a crank sensor because it's not starting when hot will be on the front of the engine next to the gearbox bell housing
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Changed the hall sender also still now joy, guessing by the sound of it the injector and fueling are out, either injector is gone or pump is gone......
BTW if disconnect battery for 30 mins will this just reset everything I guess.....running out of ideas now and patience...
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Here is the noise I get from injectors... http://youtu.be/h81ZziGgpOs
It sounds like air but could it be stuck open injector causing flooding and non start ?
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Ok plan of attack;
1) Going to try the "dumb mode" on vag software to see if get coms
2) Going to pull out injectors prime and see what is going on
3) Going to test ohms on injectors using multimeter
4) Going to get to crank angle sensor and possibly replace
5)clean up throttle body
6) look to change the brown sensor on in thermostat housuing.
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Ok looked at earths today fixed a couple of doggy ones, so did not get to check fuel injectors, again starts first time then refuses to start, vag com in dumb mode only finding abs,,,,,
????? :cry:
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HAVE YOU CHANGED THE CRANK SENSOR YET!
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I will change the crank sensor but want to find out what that noise is coming from the injector......
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Fit the crank sensor get it running then replace injector if necessary, or if your really worried do it the opposite way round. Simple
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Thanks for all the comments just ordered new crank sensor.....keep you updated...
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How many times have you cranked it over? It could be possible that youve knackered your ECU.
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Will more than likely be a crank sensor
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Got the sensor off tody waiting for new one will update next week when new one on....
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How many times have you cranked it over? It could be possible that youve knackered your ECU.
All I can say is quite a lot, I got the sensor and got some injectors so going to replace them this weekend,lets see what happens.
My one thought though is if VAGCOM can't find the ecu could be that.
What makes this harder is that this was a 16v to VR6 conversion so many moons ago and not sure if the guy rigged up the diagnostics ?
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Ok got injectors and cam sensor....I hope it one of the two......
If injectors/sensor seem ok then last check is fuel pressure
If fuel pressure ok then has to be ecu related/immob related.....
If Fuel pressure is fine out comes Mr ECU and get it tested.
Anyone know any ecu specialist that can test for me ?
Cheers
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Ok, done the following today I hope this helps someone one day...I'm going nuts
1) Changed cam sensor and can't tell if worked or not as car will not start at all now.
2)Pulled out injectors to see if were leaking I used 6 Evian bottles they were the perfect fit for the injectors, turned on ignition, and now have established that the fuel pump is not pumping any fuel into the rail or injector's at all now, before you could feel the fuel in the lines and now nothing so could be my issue.
3) Have taken injectors off with rail and for sanity sake will get them tested.
4) Taken ecu out and will get tested again for sanity.
5) I will post a picture when I can figure out how to do on here.
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Update: ECU gone to ecutesting.com, lets see if they can pull any codes from it.....
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..
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ECU fine just got back.
New Fuel pump purchased.....
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New fuel pump fitted and the following:
1) No fuel was coming through at all which was odd as it's a new fuel pump
2)Tested connection pins using multimeter and continuity test was failing on one pin.
3) Checked,rechecked fuses and then all of a sudden a little spark on the fuse and board and fuel pump started, which leads me to believe it's the fuse board has got corroded where it has been sitting for more than 5 years.....
4) So now we got fuel again, I still hear the hissing noise coming from injectors, so got a 3rd spare regulator now to test as well as testing the injector for leaks......
For F sake you better start now b.t.c.h....