GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => Cosmetic and bodywork matters => Topic started by: packardjc on 14 July 2011, 13:09
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Refurbing some wheels at the moment (BBS Solitudes to go on my Dragon Green mk3 GTI) and wanted to know how much and what kind of paint I need? Just going to go for a metallic silver I think but wanted to know any decent paint brands you'd recommend that wouldn't break the bank. And also how much I'd need.
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cans or for spray gun?
for either find a local paint/bodyshop suppliers, paint quality sh!ts all over halfords rubbish tbh
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Spray cans
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I used halfords stuff and I'm pretty impressed with the finish if I do say so myself. :smug:
You will need etch primer, normal primer (grey or white if your going silver on your alloys) then top coat, and clear lacquer. Guarantee you will need more than you think though. I did mine a few weeks ago and the first one wasnt great. I had a couple of runs but managed to flat them back, but then I put too much lacquer on and it went all dimply. If you dont think you have enough coverage for all parts of the wheel on every pass, dont worry just leave it to set for 15 mins, then come back and do the bits that were only lightly covered. I ended up doing about 8 or 9 passes on each coat (longbeaches are a b!tch and all angles!). Had to strip the first wheel back in the end but the end result was great. :wink: :smiley:
Oh and test each tin on a scrap bit of metal first. They always have different resistences and different pressures they spray at. You can then judge how far each tin will need to be away from the wheel at each pass. Hope this helps mate.
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I used halfords stuff and I'm pretty impressed with the finish if I do say so myself. :smug:
You will need etch primer, normal primer
you would be blown away by a paint/bodyshop suppliers paint then
also only need etch if you've gone down to bare metal
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only down to bare metal on tiny bits, doubt i'll need etch. I have hibuild primer and clear lacquer. What else will i need other than paint?
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What else will i need other than paint?
some panel wipe is always handy to clean the wheels down before paint and remove any comtaminates
also need to wet and dry sand paper
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I used halfords stuff and I'm pretty impressed with the finish if I do say so myself. :smug:
You will need etch primer, normal primer
you would be blown away by a paint/bodyshop suppliers paint then
also only need etch if you've gone down to bare metal
I did. :smiley:
Tbh, I did look into a bodyshop suppliers online that were local to me, but couldnt find any.
Like I said though, unless you want it to a show standard, which if your doing it from a rattle can you wont get anyway, halfords stuff is fine.
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I doubt I'll need etch primer cause I've just got it down to the dull grey apart from in tiny bits. As for spraying, how can I ensure I get both sides of spokes and wheel nut holes?
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Fair enough mate. Holes are tricky. I went over em quite a few times. You dont want to go too near and spray down as you risk it shooting onto the top and running. I just went slightly closer than normal from slightly different angles and shot down them in short sharp bursts. You will need to go over it a fair few times to get a decent layer, but it will come eventually. Same with the side of the spokes, just work you way round the wheels from different angles. Thats why I said you would need more paint than you would imagine as some places need going over and over. Like I said as well, it is quite time consuming as dont be tempted to try and get that little bit extra coverage in the tricky places. Let it cure a bit before attempting to try again. I made that mistake with the first wheel and had to re-do it. :smiley:
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Cheers man, will upload a pic of my progress. Still need to go over with 240 before I prime anyway.
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Rustoleum, takes some beating in terms of durability.
http://www.rustoleumdirect.co.uk/
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to get the spokes and bolt holes done properly is done by just lots of thin/light layers, don't be tempted to spray down into the bolt holes as you will just get runs
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Ok here is the wheel sanded with 80 (still gotta do 240 before primer). Am I gonna need etch primer?
Before
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268810_10150304131651211_592311210_9385123_270445_n.jpg)
After
(http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/270432_10150308299866211_592311210_9417714_7425266_n.jpg)
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/268182_10150308300161211_592311210_9417717_4706391_n.jpg)
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best to get some etch for over the bare metal, don't want them flaking, better safe than sorry
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I would go higher with your wet n dry too. Etch primer tin says to use between 200 and 300 I think, but I used 400. Just after doing the first wheel, there were still a couple of visible lines where the scratches were. With 400 they disappeared after the top coat. Thats about the stage I got to with regard to to sanding on yours as well. Basically, I used scotch pad to clean them up, 200 for initial stripping, 400 to flat back a little, and 1200 after each primer but not after top coat. Some say dont bother after primer but do a little and feel the difference. Make your mind up from there but I did the 1200 after as it feels so much smoother and cleaner. :smiley:
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1200 after each primer but not after top coat. Some say dont bother after primer but do a little and feel the difference. Make your mind up from there but I did the 1200 after as it feels so much smoother and cleaner. :smiley:
firstly, you don't need to sand after every primer coat, only the last coat has dried
secondly, 1200 is a little too smooth, you can get problems with adhesion from the paint and it may lift, 1000 is about tops for wet sanding primer
thirdly, whoever says don't sand after priming are completes retards
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Well I'm going by a guide I found so I'm sticking with the sandpaper recommendations in that (80, 240, 1000 (on primer), 1500 (on lacquer))
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Well I'm going by a guide I found so I'm sticking with the sandpaper recommendations in that (80, 240, 1000 (on primer), 1500 (on lacquer))
better to use closer to 2000 on the lacquer
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1200 after each primer but not after top coat. Some say dont bother after primer but do a little and feel the difference. Make your mind up from there but I did the 1200 after as it feels so much smoother and cleaner. :smiley:
firstly, you don't need to sand after every primer coat, only the last coat has dried
secondly, 1200 is a little too smooth, you can get problems with adhesion from the paint and it may lift, 1000 is about tops for wet sanding primer
thirdly, whoever says don't sand after priming are completes retards
Alright tired!!! Dont go getting yourself all worked up now. :rolleyes:
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Got them primed. Did one layer of etch as I was using hi-build after. Then did 1 light, 1 heavy of high then a dusting from low angles to get the bits that hadn't quite been mullered.
(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/284164_10150310777916211_592311210_9446341_7461427_n.jpg)
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(http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281341_10150312470861211_592311210_9464233_5965504_n.jpg)
Lacquered
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Looking good mate. How did you find sraying in the hard to reach areas? Any "Oh for feck sake" moments?? :grin:
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Not too bad, launched some step ladders across the room when a bit of it f**ked up though