GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => General discussion => Topic started by: polo6n222 on 08 May 2011, 17:57
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right both the dranage bungs at the rear of my car have both rusted away whats the best way to wled these up was thinking about cutting the bits from another golf should i overlap the new metal or but weld it
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if you know how to weld then chop it out and seam weld new bit in place
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As shep said cut it out and replace as required.
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is there anywhere to get a floor pan for a golf so i can just use the buits i need or should i just cut it out of another golf seen a very clean shell at my local scrapy
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Cutting a section out will obviously look better when replaced with a another decent donor section of floor-plate but it will require nicer full seams of welding rather than if you were to simply lay a piece of steel plate over the damaged parts but these bits would only need to be seam welded really.
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Butt weld it in. Cut out the rust, get new steel good steel from a donor car. Spend time cutting and trimming the replacement section so it fits perfectly, a nice 1mm gap or less all the way around will be perfect. Then tack the section in at regular intervals, tweak it as you go so it sits correctly. When happy with that seam weld in about 25mm stretches in alternative locations around the section, allowing it to cool between welds to prevent distortion. Tidy up the welds afterwards with a grinder/flap disc, then degrease, Metal Ready it, then zinc or etch primer it before top coating.
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nice just what i wanted to know aint done welding before but my mate is going to teach me i have always worked with metel tho so i know what im doing there of to the scrapy i go oh and also i have a hole on the sill when i open the door guessing i can just cut this out and weld a new bit in
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Take your time and practice on some scrap. Also the cleaner the steel the easier it is to weld, remove all paint and every piece of rust before welding any new in.
Get tooled up too, I found one of these a godsend, Black & Decker Powerfile
(http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/custom/images/products/hires/B-DKA900E.jpg)
Also a Dremel or similar are very useful for removing small areas of rot when a 3.5" angle grinder is just too big.
Like I said take your time and get tooled up, this is what I did on my 911, I'm not a metal man at all.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0024.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0053.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0081.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0086.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0099.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v103/Spuff_Monkey/PICT0191.jpg)
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looks very good mate i got qouted 90 to weld up one hole and i have 2 so for the price of getting them done i may as well rent a welder and do it my self unless anyone knows some where cheap for welding in croydon area
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looks very good mate i got qouted 90 to weld up one hole and i have 2 so for the price of getting them done i may as well rent a welder and do it my self unless anyone knows some where cheap for welding in croydon area
personally i'd get a quote to have both done and pay them to do it, will be far better end result :wink:
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Butt weld it in. Cut out the rust, get new steel good steel from a donor car. Spend time cutting and trimming the replacement section so it fits perfectly, a nice 1mm gap or less all the way around will be perfect. Then tack the section in at regular intervals, tweak it as you go so it sits correctly. When happy with that seam weld in about 25mm stretches in alternative locations around the section, allowing it to cool between welds to prevent distortion. Tidy up the welds afterwards with a grinder/flap disc, then degrease, Metal Ready it, then zinc or etch primer it before top coating.
Feel like I just got an NVQ Level 1 from reading that!
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NVQ Level 1, is that good or bad?
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NVQ Level 1, is that good or bad?
Pretty good from reading a one paragraph post on a forum!
:grin:
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Innit, i had to go to friggin college for 3 years to get my engineering grades shizzle.