GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: bmouthboyo on 30 January 2011, 18:44
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Hi,
I was working on my Mk1 DK engine today and noticed that some sort of coolant bung on the engine has gone :undecided:
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04890.jpg)
(http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w182/bossman187uk/DSC04889.jpg)
Could anyone tell me firstly how this has may have come out? Secondly is it easy to replace? And lastly what it is called and where I can get one / Price etc?
Thankyou
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Do you mean a core. Plug? If so it may have frozen over if its been sat with no anti freeze in...try vw or gsf ecp
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Would this be it?
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_shop.product_pID_114847_lang_EN_country_GB.htm (http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_act_shop.product_pID_114847_lang_EN_country_GB.htm)
Does it just hammer in? Or does it need a sealant or spot weld?
Cheers
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It should just hammer in. It is designed to pop out and allow ice to expand if you are a complete f**ktard like me and not crack the block
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Those are core plugs mate and yes the ones in the link you posted are correct. However, you might as well buy genuine from vw, especially as they are actually cheaper than vwheritage!
Part number is; 036 103 113A £1.69 + vat
They are push fitted into place using a socket the same size, you can put a small amount of sealant around them before you push them in if you like but not really necessary.
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On a side note I am having trouble starting my engine after leaving for a year.
This wouldn't be an indication of any problems would it? (head gasket comes to mind)
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On a side note I am having trouble starting my engine after leaving for a year.
This wouldn't be an indication of any problems would it? (head gasket comes to mind)
..
Just posted in your other thread and now spotted this... I would be slightly worried that this block has frozen whilst full of water!.. Might be worth doing a compression test if you can get hold of a tester to ensure all is well as this may relate to your starting problems.
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Oh dear.
Thing is it has hardly any water in it as I have a coolant leak leading the length of the van to the radiator. I am trying to get the engine to start before I deal with it.
I did a pressure test last year when engine was running ok and they were all withing tollerence. Will check again. I did have to replace the head gasket after having a manifold bolt removed and helicoiled last year. I am thinking I didnt torque the head bolts up correctly or damaged the gasket when fitting :(
Anything else can cause these caps to blow out?
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Oh dear.
Thing is it has hardly any water in it as I have a coolant leak leading the length of the van to the radiator. I am trying to get the engine to start before I deal with it.
I did a pressure test last year when engine was running ok and they were all withing tollerence. Will check again. I did have to replace the head gasket after having a manifold bolt removed and helicoiled last year. I am thinking I didnt torque the head bolts up correctly or damaged the gasket when fitting :(
Anything else can cause these caps to blow out?
System over pressurising due to possible gasget issues maybe?
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Anything else can cause these caps to blow out?
Lack of antifreeze, they tend to pop if the water freezes.
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but there was hardly any coolant in there due to leak.
Do these pop out when head gasket goes?
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but there was hardly any coolant in there due to leak.
Do these pop out when head gasket goes?
As stated previously, two most likely reasons are;
System over pressurising due to possible gasket issues.
Lack of antifreeze, they tend to pop if the water freezes.
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Ok thanks for all the help so far guys
I did a compression test about a year and a half ago, I think just before I had the head removed to have a bolt helicoiled. The head was skimmed so I assume would increase pressure slightly.
I couldn't get engine warm as it wont start at moment :(
Results from year and half ago: 143 - 151 - 151 - 153
Results from today (may have had little fuel in cylinder): 154 - 192 - 170 - 180
2nd time: 130 - 160 - 140 - 172
3rd time: 150 - 154 - 140 - 170
So cylinder one seems to generally be lower than the others. The first test I assume was higher due to possibly some fuel being in cylinders by the end they looked dry when I shone torch into them.
I followed the instruction on back of my pressure gauge. Spark plugs removed, dry with throttle open.
So does this point to the core plug being blown due to head gasket?
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with the amount of problems you have had with this engine, have you though about just swaping in another, theose compression test results are high enough for it to run but there not brillian't and are nearly just in spec but TBH there crap.
100 is the bare minumum to run, 150 is manageabole but it means the engine is pritty near end of life. a good strong engine with a good starter should do 190psi even when cold, often top 200psi when hot.
it chould be possible that your cam timeing is out
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Hi danny,
Unfortunately I dont have the money, or space to do a full engine swap. If it is inevitable than I'll learn my way about this engine and if the time comes maybe then have to do so. Although it is a Gti engine it is in a 27 year old 2700Kg camper van, so performance isn't a priority. I just want it running and reliable. It has to be better than the 1.6D it left the factory with lol
On a side note the engine was put into the van back in 94 with only 27000 miles. It now has done 52000 so still pretty young, although neglected. It ran a year ago, so must be life still in her.
Does the compression test clearly indicate a fault? Given it is on a cold engine that has not been run in a long time? Am I flogging a dead horse trying to get it going or could it still prove reliable?
I am thinking I should replace the core plug and if it blows again ill know for sure its head gasket. I will also double check the timing marks as it has had the head removed. I will also do a wet compression test and if that makes no difference at least it will suggest valves.
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i very much dought the core plug has blown out due to a gasket issue, pipes tend to split or water tanks vent way before they pop out.
the compression readings do indicate a fault but not a headgasket fault, a HG fault would likely show as 1 or two cyls reading really low, all of those readings are low. i wasent suggesting a full engine conversion just a like for like swap. as PB engines are worth nothing 2nd hand in my experiance and it may just be easyer quicker and more cost effective than fixing the current one, not that long ago i tryed to sell a rebuild PB and none even wanted to take it away
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Thanks Danny, ill keep that in mind.
I wont give up on this (DX) just yet, fingers crossed. I'll replace the core plug and keep on in my other non start thread about engine issues.
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i'd get it started before bothering with the core plug, they can idel for 30 secs to minute without coolant and it won't harm them.
check your timeing fire a f**k load of ether at it and see if it tryes, if it don't check ignition timeing and that its actualy sparking the right cyl and try again, once it's run bof the coreplug in