GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mk2bal on 29 August 2010, 16:45
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anyone bought an ebay c/l kit to work with a toad alarm. not sure what to buy, they all seem to be ones that come with their own crappy key fobs, can i wire them up to the toad and bin the sh!tty fobs? not even fussed bout it doing both doors, just mine will be fine.... any ideas?
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ive got one of ebay and would be interested. If you put an alarm would you have to use both key locks
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http://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53
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http://www.rclick.co.uk/index.php?cPath=53
Ive recently put a cheaper version of this in my golf, works perfectly but I kinda fancy this anyway cause of the key/fob, and separate boot button.
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Wasn't this asked a couple of days ago?
Most c/l kits have a 2 wire connection for close/open that is pretty much universal as far as hooking up to alarm systems go
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haribo: most of the aftermarket cl kits use the same plug on the brain, so you could get the rclick kit and just swap the brain over to upgrade to the rclick fobs :)
did this on my mk2 first to convert it to remote cl, then again when i bought the rclick kit. the wiring and cl motors were all left alone
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haribo: most of the aftermarket cl kits use the same plug on the brain, so you could get the rclick kit and just swap the brain over to upgrade to the rclick fobs :)
did this on my mk2 first to convert it to remote cl, then again when i bought the rclick kit. the wiring and cl motors were all left alone
ah good, I was hoping I could do that, although in the description it said something about silent operation, any idea if this means the motors are slower and less violent than the cheaper ones? if thats the case then im swapping out the motors too, I can still keep the cables :D
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i used one of the rclick motors in my passenger door as the one in there packed in, cant say it sounds any different to the rest but then ive never really listened to it :grin:
swapped over just fine though, same shape and wires :)
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i used one of the rclick motors in my passenger door as the one in there packed in, cant say it sounds any different to the rest but then ive never really listened to it :grin:
swapped over just fine though, same shape and wires :)
ah ok, well il investigate.
I may have to swap the wiring over anyway tho cause of an auxiliary wire or something for the separate boot unlock button? or something like that.
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the boot pop and the other bits are on a seperate plug :)
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the boot pop and the other bits are on a seperate plug :)
ah, so il still need to run new cables to my boot?
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aye, you only need a live feed tho, the earth you can piggy back onto the wiper earth. if you didint want your rear wiper could take it off and use the wires from that for the pop. the wiper wires come out into the C pillar, could unplug it there and plug in your boot pop wiring, that would save doing any modification to your wiring loom then
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well ive got wires going back there anyway for the existing central locking motor I put in last week, so I could just connect the new wires to them? They pass thru my boot at the mo cause they come from the motor in my petrol flap.
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you could use them but you would obv loose the central locking in the boot, cant have the cl and boot pop running thru the same wires see
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you could use them but you would obv loose the central locking in the boot, cant have the cl and boot pop running thru the same wires see
hmm, im confused now, I thought that the boot button with that particular kit just unlocked the boot central locking motor, is there an extra motor in the kit for a boot pop aswell?
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oh no, what its for is to pop the boot open like on posh motors! the central locking will still work as before to lock and unlock the boot and petrol flap :)
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oh no, what its for is to pop the boot open like on posh motors! the central locking will still work as before to lock and unlock the boot and petrol flap :)
thats odd, it doesnt say it that it includes any sort of boot release motor but it does include "boot release" as a feature and has a boot button on the fob...
am I supposed to use on of the standard motors in the boot?
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yeah the boot pop motor/solenoid isn't included as std, though they do sell a kit for it. you can try using one of the cl actuators and a rubber band so it retracts once popped, im sure i read that someone did that somewhere?
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yeah the boot pop motor/solenoid isn't included as std, though they do sell a kit for it. you can try using one of the cl actuators and a rubber band so it retracts once popped, im sure i read that someone did that somewhere?
ah bollockz to that, I can open the boot with the button like a normal person. save myself faffing about with it.
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yeah the boot pop motor/solenoid isn't included as std, though they do sell a kit for it. you can try using one of the cl actuators and a rubber band so it retracts once popped, im sure i read that someone did that somewhere?
ah bollockz to that, I can open the boot with the button like a normal person. save myself faffing about with it.
I just used one of the rear door solenoids for the boot pop, I'll see if I can dig out the picture of how it is setup.
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yeah the boot pop motor/solenoid isn't included as std, though they do sell a kit for it. you can try using one of the cl actuators and a rubber band so it retracts once popped, im sure i read that someone did that somewhere?
ah bollockz to that, I can open the boot with the button like a normal person. save myself faffing about with it.
I just used one of the rear door solenoids for the boot pop, I'll see if I can dig out the picture of how it is setup.
ah ok, ive got so many spare solenoids so that could work
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Bodgy bodgy bodgy ... its been 4 years now and its still fine :)
Right, this probably won't be ideal for you, but I fitted this about 3 years ago with whatever I had laying about at the time.
Its worked perfect without fail, but it looks bodgy
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG6925.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG6926.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG6927.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/blessani/mini-CIMG6924.jpg)
Just noticed I've got some nice rot inside the boot lid too - awesome
The rubber bandy bit is to pull the solenoid back to normal position after firing. As I used a spare normal door lock pusher, it doesn't return to centre - hence the rubber band.
The metal wire is just so I could mount the popper transversely, and it takes less effort for it to open because its a 'pully' type system, physicsy stuff and all that.
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thats genius, cheers
Il have a look and see if i can mimic it... I can imagine the task will annoy me too much to bother tho :p
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Im thinking of getting an rclick kit, could anybody give me a little fitting advice before hand?
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Im thinking of getting an rclick kit, could anybody give me a little fitting advice before hand?
Its dead easy mate, easiest if you already have a central locking kit cause then all you do if get your key blank cut and swap the black box with the one you already have.
Still easy if you have the original air pump set up, you just run the loom into each door and swap the solenoids with the air ones, then plug the loom into the black box.
Wiring it up is fairly easy, how to do it depends if youve got a pre or post 90 mk2.
If you have zero central locking and it was never a central locking car then its still dead easy to set up to the doors, but you will need to buy/acquire a petrol flap central locking mech to ad the motor to, thats dead easy bu you need to make sure your flap has the pin on it and theres a hole ready or youde have to play with that. Also you would need an entire central locking boot lock with rods, barrel and button to swap with your existing one as theyre totally different.
I hope that was a little help, im certainly no expert but ive fitted lots of central locking kits :p
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it seems I love the term "dead easy"
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my main priorities would be the doors, id probably leave the petrol flap as the cap has a key anyway and as for the boot its opened like once a week so id probably fit the boot kit later if at all, its zero central locking thats why it annoys me so much and im basically just after fitting a central locking kit with a key fob
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my main priorities would be the doors, id probably leave the petrol flap as the cap has a key anyway and as for the boot its opened like once a week so id probably fit the boot kit later if at all, its zero central locking thats why it annoys me so much and im basically just after fitting a central locking kit with a key fob
its a really simple and easy job then mate,
find a screw hole anywhere beneath the door pin, there might be two the correct distance apart to screw into both holes on the solenoid but if theres only one then use the ladder shaped part whcih comes with the kit to add the extra hole (youl know what I mean when you see it.
Now if you feel up inside the door towards the door pin you should find that the door pin attached to a plastic piece, that plastic piece has an extra hole in it, this hole is where you need to put your rod that also comes with the kit, work out how long it needs to be and cut it (I just used two pairs of pliers to bend it until it snapped, easy that way) it has to be long enough to bend the end to as far over a right angle as you can get away with so its less likely to pop out of the hole during operation, now you need to stick that rod through the hole in the plastic thing. Before you do that, pop off the part at the end of the solenoid and put it on the rod first so its at the end with the notch on, (hopefully that will make more sense when you see the parts)
When youve got the rod nicely through the hole, you need to pop that part back on the solenoid and with the door unlocked have the solenoid in the extended position and secure it to the door. the solenoid with the most wires coming out of it is the master, the rclick kit comes with two of these, the only difference is that master solenoids unlock everything else if you use the key on it as well as when you use the fob, so just use them in both doors if you want although it doesn't matter that much.
To fit the loom take of your dash under trays and if you feel up beside the fuse box, a little above the metal thing that you can screw one side of the under tray to, you should be able to find the hole to the world outside which will take you to the rubber grommet on the outside of the car, you may need to dig for it but its there ;)
The passenger one is in the same place on the other side, you can either make a hole in the grommets in both the car and the door to put the wires though or REALLY you should acquire the rubber boots that the wires can go through , VW still stock them.
the loom is simple, it all plugs together and is colour coordinated. then it plugs into your little black box that you can hide wherever you like.
if your cars a 90 spec, theres an earth claw above the fuse box for yoru earth and the live can go on the far right hand side of the back of the fuse box, its got thick red wires going into it and there should be spare spades there.
im not 100% sure about pre 90 but i think theres a collection of live spades on one side and ignition lives on the other and I cant remember about earth, it does go tho, from what I remember, its easier.
you should be set up then. theres an extra plug for other things too with that kit, theres the window wind up thing and boot pop that both require buying extra bits and then theres the two brown wires that you can splice onto some wires going from your indicator stalk if you want the indicators to flash when you lock/unlock the car/ use the car find feature. its simple to do, in fact all of its pretty simple cause I managed it and im crap at this stuff :p
Thats probably more info then you needed and probably made no sense, its pretty easy to work it out for yourself anyway, but I just felt like a typeafon :p
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Right its pay day thursday and im going to get one of these rclick kits, iv just been looking through the kits and the key fobs look abit naff, which fob did you guys go for?
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MK4 Golf stylee :)
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yes i was looking at that one, seemed the best of the lot really except for the fake key thing
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they arnt fake! you can get mk2 shape key blanks, you specify what shape blank you want when you order it. mk2 is 'HU49' then you take the blanks to your local locksmith chap and get em to cut it off your old key, cost me a couple o quid.
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nice i didnt know that just thought it was a cheap gimmick, looks like ill got for that one then
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Yeh I went for the flip key too, very fancy :D
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I probs being blind but I don't see a Mk4 stylee flippy key option?
I was looking to replace my alarm/ remote central locking with this kit
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=762
However, even though I changed the lock barrles to fit known keys I still can't lock or unlock the doors with the key. It won't turn. I need to use the remote for the fob, which is now rubber ducked. Am I being a thicky? Or will stripping out the old alarm/ remote central locking cure the problem? The car has central locking as standard.
HU49? Top tip :cool:
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I probs being blind but I don't see a Mk4 stylee flippy key option?
I was looking to replace my alarm/ remote central locking with this kit
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=762
However, even though I changed the lock barrles to fit known keys I still can't lock or unlock the doors with the key. It won't turn. I need to use the remote for the fob, which is now rubber ducked. Am I being a thicky? Or will stripping out the old alarm/ remote central locking cure the problem? The car has central locking as standard.
HU49? Top tip :cool:
(http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/6981/clicke.jpg)
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Can't see pic's at work :undecided:
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ok, it was a ring aroudn the picture of the mk4 key. its the only fob that comes with the kit :)
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this one!
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=399
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Any one have problems getting the key cut?
My key cutter man said it would be at my own risk because its not a key supplied by them,got it back and its a crap cut but i dunno if it was him or the key.Only works if wiggled in the ignition.
Thought bout getting another key cut and lopping the top off to go in my fob.
Or try another key cutter.
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ok, it was a ring aroudn the picture of the mk4 key. its the only fob that comes with the kit :)
:grin: I was being a blindo. I'm ill, leave me alone :grin:
this one!
http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=399
Says for a 4 door, assume I just leave one of them unplugged it'lb be fine? Mine is a 3dr. So one for the boot and the other two for doors leaving a spare.
Any one have problems getting the key cut?
If it is anything like the actual vw keys you can remove them from the fob (with a bit of fiddling) so theoretically shouldn't be any problem. Albeit I haven't yet got these specific keys so can't say 100% but I would go to a key cutter who is happy to do them or specialises in motortrade.
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Igot a bag of blank keys with no ends,just the bladed bit.
See what your saying about the fob but i didnt have one to start with,just had the old vw key which is black round the outside and vw in middle.
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Igot a bag of blank keys with no ends,just the bladed bit.
See what your saying about the fob but i didnt have one to start with,just had the old vw key which is black round the outside and vw in middle.
This used to have pics but gives you the jist
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-113822.html
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i didn't have a problem, chap took my old key and blank and cut it to perfection. if it doesnt work just means they haven't aligned the 2 keys up properly in the cutting machine.
as for 2/4 door kits they're the same, just means you have 2 spare cl motors and wiring. fit these to your petrol flap and tailgate using vag cl mechs with the vac motors taken off and a bit of head scratching ;)
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ive just bought the rclick system. where have you guys put the brain, and what 12v supply did you attach it to?
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I just put the brain above fusebox and tapped into a live red wire near it.
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ok, im not very savvy with electrics so not super confident with doing that. could i not get a longer piece of wire, and feed it straight from the battery and use a connector to attach the new wire from the battery to the one coming from the brain? problem solved?
also where will i find a good earth? :grin:
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ok, im not very savvy with electrics so not super confident with doing that. could i not get a longer piece of wire, and feed it straight from the battery and use a connector to attach the new wire from the battery to the one coming from the brain? problem solved?
also where will i find a good earth? :grin:
Why go to all that trouble... Read RJ's FAQ in Mech section the live wires are at the rear of he fusebox...
Earths are on a block above the Fusebox beside the steering column (Brown Wires)...
Is yours a CE1 (dash mounted Hazard) or CE2 (steering column Hazard) Fusebox??
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it would be a CE1, i just know pretty much nothing about electrics, and dont want to b*gger up my fuse box
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it would be a CE1, i just know pretty much nothing about electrics, and dont want to b*gger up my fuse box
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=44637.0
Page 1 Bottom & Page 4...
P - red - battery +, ignition switch pin 30, electric window relay pin 87, headlight washer relay pin B/30 & f/injection relay pin 30 (K-Jet f/inj)
If In doubt drop RJ an Email...
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awesome, thanks for the heads up :cool:
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awesome, thanks for the heads up :cool:
Check with a multimeter when the ignition is off.
I would also put a fuse in the power supply if one is not provided...