am i being thick and/or a pussy

[jammac]

whilst changing my front discs/pads last weekend i noticed on the steering tie rod end the rubber boot around the balljoint was hanging off so thought id better replace it in case mr MOT wants to be extra anal.

got the new tie rod end piece.  trying to get the old one off is being a total arse. ive loosened the nut on the rod and removed the nut that goes up underneath sprayed it up with loadsa penetrant oil been bashing the crap out of it and levering it with various 1/2" drive extentions, spanners and bits of wood but i still can get it to budge! 

the cars jacked up on the aft wishbone bolt area and ive put an axle stand on the wishbone just behind the brake disc. the weight of the car is on both.

andy ideas? i take it the rod has some movement at the PAS steering rack end? or do i have to remove it from there 1st???

this is rather annoying as i thought it would be a very simple job  :embarassed:

cheers J

p.s. both wheels are facing straight ahead

[JC]

aint got a clue mate - but my old girl passed her MOT today with only one advisory 

So if you want to know a Garage to take it too - take a trip up  to me 

[Jay]

jammac, no idea on that mate, is there anything in the haynes book of lies about this? (I have the red book but everyone else seems to have the blue/black book).

So where did you take your car in the end chuff?

[JC]

Pm'd ya Mate 

[herbster]

 
Try jacking the tie rod end out by putting nut back on put socket that fits the nut back on the nut with a nut inside so that the nut doesn't dissapear inside the socket, put the jack under the socket and take the weight, remember to keep the axle stand under the wishbone, then give the top of the tie rod a good smack down, it should shock the joint apart, best bet would be to get hold of a ball joint splitter, but this method should work for you. Should you succeed be carefull putting the new tie rod on, count the number of turns to take of and put new one on with same amount, then put the nut on as soon as poss, put wheel back on and lower to ground, put the steering on opposite lock, so you can see the nut that needs tightening and carefully with an open ended spanner tighten at the same time watch the tapered spindle doesn't turn. good luck 

[Diamond Hell]

best bet would be to get hold of a ball joint splitter

Ooooooooooh, no way.  Put a GOOD jack under the end of the thread on the old track rod without the nut on.  Take as much of the weight of the car on the jack as is practical and safe.  With two hammers strike the control arm from either side simultaneuously.  If it still doesn't shift wallop it again.  As the man's already said - the shock WILL break the joint. 

This method has the added advantage that it won't destroy the old joint - this means if you want to re-use a joint at some point when you do this again, you can, unlike if you use a splitter which will trash the joint pretty much every time.

[jammac]

OK some good advice i think....got a gander at a haynes manual last night and it says to use a balljoint seperator tool. im abit weary of using a jack as i dont wanna wreck the actual rod so.....

i was gonna do a trip to chavfords and get a blowtorch to show the b!tch some heat but maybe ill purchase the seperator tool also if its not to much cash. (thankyou trade card discount)

i will let you all know the winner 

[gavL]

I got them off a 205 with a large piece of wood and a large amount of jumping up and down! Quality entertainment especially when my dad snaps the wood in half!

[Diamond Hell]

No, really, with a trolley jack you won't damage anything - the car will drop the distance of the rod which is sticking out under the arm - not far at all and quite safe.  You'll be fine provided you're using a proper trolley jack.  I thought this method was a bit pony until I tried it and it is SO much more simple than mucking about with splitting tools, which are wrecker's tools, to be honest.

[rubjonny]

go to halfords, and buy one of these:



makes this job a complete doddle